I saw a post from AutobahnEV in the Parts for Sale forum that got me thinking. It appears that if you wanted to use the facelift hood on a pre-facelift car all you would need to swap is the radiator mount and the hood release mechanism.
See photo below of old front clip. The facelift radiator mount is composite, not aluminum and has the single hood release.
The only real question is are all the radiators and parts that attach to the "new" style radiator support the same/compatible...I am guessing they are.
Who has access to both radiator mounts?
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I would make sure the support beams for accidents don't affect anything. Whats interesting and I still think it could be true is that the original X was going to have a nose cone. Although the rear is completely different from when I was researching awhile ago I think the older S and X were very similar. Even the hood, if you have ever noticed that the "T" on the X looks a little weird compared to the S. They also made it larger for a reason and opened the spacing. I vaguely read someone in this post reference it. Also if you look at unplugged performances refresh fascia it is almost identical to the shape of the x bumper minus the inlays. The older S and X are very similar
Best way to compare the previous car is to look on Tesla's website at the current ones they show with the frame off and than search model s pics and you will find a ton of pics of the original S frame off etc. Have the widows side by side to compare. This is where I think you might have issues with the radiator mounts although that is an idea I never thought of. They are many different ways to accomplish this whether you add your own mounting holes in certain areas etc.
Also using the chrome inlays or the housing for them isn't necessary especially if you want to save money or make the bumper look more aftermarket. This is how most aftermarket kits work. Those areas are there for the housing to open to cool the battery. You could use all different types of screens and even take the inlays off and have them in the slots without the housing. The one thing you will notice ans this is why after market body kits didn't try to make it were you had to reapply the parts from the oem bumper to the new. The more stuff you have, housing etc, the better chance you are going to have some rubbing preventing a perfect flush mount. That's why it looks so good before you add all the *sugar* when you first put the new oem bumper on. It seemed like there would be no issues but there are a few and most just require relocation. Even where the chrome inlays are you could find parts from other cars that could potentially work.(1 inlay instead of 2)(1 inlay that also is another light, etc). You just need to shave down the area which makes it for 2 inlays instead of 1. The possibilities are really endless and the easiest parts to fit that matter the most are the sensors etc. As well as moving
I'm not trying to give everything away cause we will be doing this and will be using other parts instead of oem ones that will make it fit better overall and most like it more too cuz it looks like a newer bumper. As long as you have some type of mesh grill etc than you can try all kinds of different ideas, You just want to make sure the battery is able to cool and some larger bugs don't go thru.
Nicola Brussels has basically mastered this as far as creating an ideal oem look. Also to help make the headlight line up perfect and not have a gap you need to drill into the bumper where the bottom of the lights are. This will insure a snug fit since the S has the only lights without clip holes on the bottom unlike the X and 3. If you are having issues with the bottom lights fitting snug look into doing this. This will not apply to everyone but some made need to do this to prevent any gaps etc.
I also may have a really great connection on hoods and bumpers. As well as the v-stripe hardware. I am looking into the hoods and bumpers now I will let you know.
Look at the two pics below, one is unplugged's fascia the other the model x. I f you notice that sporty look unplugged claims is already on the x basically. Using a X "T" is something you should look into even tho they have different screw points. Get out a cutter
I think it's great what you all have accomplished. And hopefully this may help solve some other problems. As far as the lever for the hood just copy what unplugged does. They have instructions on their website. Someone on here basically stated something similar
Also relocate exterior temp sensor if you live in arizona or anywhere hot
Model S - Refresh Front Fascia Installation Manual - Unplugged Performance
