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2014 P85D - Flood Salvage Questions

AlphaTango11

Member
Sep 26, 2019
19
18
Fayetteville, Georgia
Hi everyone, I recently purchased a salvage title December 2014 P85D linked here, with a somewhat interesting situation.

About a month ago, the original owner drove through a "6-8" puddle" and the car displayed a few error messages: "Immediate Service", "12 volt battery”, Car may not start”. He was still able to drive it home (only five more miles or so) and park it. When he tried to drive it again the next day, his 12V battery was dead, so he towed it to a Tesla approved body shop (not service center, from what I can tell).

This body shop replaced the 12V battery, nothing else, and he got more warnings: "Reduced power", "Cay may not start", and no heat or A/C. In addition, supposedly, the GPS does not update to a new location.

The owner called his insurance company, and they totaled it without looking at it more in depth. The broker that sold it has powered it up only by jumping the 12V battery, not much else is known.

With the background information out of the way, the car is arriving today. My father and I have successfully rebuilt 5 other salvage vehicles for ourselves and family members, but never a Tesla. We have good mechanical skills, but that will only go so far for these, as a larger portion is software related (BMS latched faults are my main concern for this) and the parts are harder to come by. I mainly have a few questions for everyone and am seeking advice as to how to proceed / what to watch out for.

1. Is there anything absolutely critical that I should do/check after the car has arrived to prevent any damage to the pack? The issue occurred about a month ago with the pack at 200 miles of range remaining, so I do not think the pack will be low/drained, thankfully.

2. From the errors listed, I currently suspect that there is an issue with the contactors and/or pyrofuse. I don't yet have the vehicle to inspect or test those yet, but I wonder if the seal let some water in to that section of the pack and shorted out the contactors or the board controlling them. Does this seem like a good place to start? If not, what would be? I plan on first at least checking the pyrofuse to see if it has any resistance, but after that I'd probably drop and inspect the pack. I have a hydraulic car lift, so dropping the pack would not be terribly difficult. If the car still displays 200 miles (as pictured in the listing) when it arrives, I suspect that the pack status / voltage is not updating at all, which would likely indicate either pyrofuse or contactor issue, correct? What if it displays lower than 200 miles?

3. As far as acquiring parts goes, would it be best to try to go through Tesla? eBay? Obviously, Tesla will not sell an entire battery pack, but would they sell contactors or a pyrofuse in this case?

4. Is there any way to check and see what warranty work was performed on the vehicle in the past? Due to the fact that it is clearly no longer in warranty, I am concerned about DUs, MCU, and door handles.

Mostly just looking for any advice and/or tips that you all may have. In addition, from what you all can tell, was buying this a good deal or a mistake? I know we won't know for sure until it's finished, of course.

Thanks!
 

mjmiron

Member
Sep 11, 2017
390
743
Minnesota
Sell it their is too much down side to a salvage including no updates, or super charging and getting parts, plus battery is not warranted.

That’s said your probably already committed I would google Tesla rebuild their a few guys on YouTube that have rebuilt these. Good luck
 

Simon_Emes

Member
Sep 25, 2019
101
52
Vienna
Rich rebuilds is your YouTube channel for this...
Good luck with the car, it will take some pressure on Tesla to get it back online since they seem to lock salvaged cars out of supercharging and updates...
 

FPLPowered

Member
Dec 15, 2014
41
52
Viera, FL
FYI this exact thing happened to me during Hurricane Irma with the exact same symptoms. It was covered by my insurance to the price of $10k. Replaced was:

DC-DC Converter
12V battery
High Voltage Contactors
Motor
 
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AlphaTango11

Member
Sep 26, 2019
19
18
Fayetteville, Georgia
Hey everyone, just providing a quick update.
Jumped car with 12V to get door handles to deploy.
Hear some clicking, I'm assuming it's the contactors?

Mutliple errors about "Car needs service" but not really any specific mentions. Car obviously unable to start.

After a few minutes I smelled a burnt smell from the back of the car so I powered it off and disconnected 12V power, and that's where I am currently.

Soon I plan on dropping the pack and inspecting it to make sure the contactors, pyrofuse, and DC-DC converter test good.
Does this sound like a reasonable approach?
 

AlphaTango11

Member
Sep 26, 2019
19
18
Fayetteville, Georgia
Removed the battery pack from the vehicle today. HV connectors were full of water.

There was no voltage here, so I'm assuming the contactors are open.

When measuring voltage at the main pack fuse at the front of the battery, the voltage fluctuates between 50-80 volts. Not a good sign at all, from what I can tell. The main pack fuse checked good, with .3 Ohms of resistance and good continuity.

In addition, I opened the Front Junction Box cover and checked all 4 fuses, all of them checked good. I also opened the DC-DC converter cover and everything looked good in there, but I did not see any fuses to check.

I believe the next step will be to open the pack up, unfortunately. The external seal looked pretty good (except for around the connectors) but I think some water may have made its way into the pack and done some major damage. May also check the fuses in the HVJB below the rear seats.

20190929_232729.jpg 20190929_231209.jpg
 

AlphaTango11

Member
Sep 26, 2019
19
18
Fayetteville, Georgia
Hi everyone, just wanted to provide a final update.

My father and I cleaned out the HV plug port and reconnected the battery. The car now shifts into drive and charges.

The only remaining error is "Park Assist Unavailable" but I am hoping that will go away when driven.

I still plan on opening the pack at the contactors to verify that there isn't any water in that section.

Our best theory at the moment is that the driver drove through a deep puddle, which let water into that connector due to the plastic around it being cracked. Once this water was in there, it sat there and corroded the plug, which kept the car from charging and shifting into drive.

The funny thing about this salvage purchase is that we didn't even have to replace any parts. That will be a fun conversation with the inspector.
 
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mongo

Well-Known Member
May 3, 2017
13,329
40,782
Michigan
Hi everyone, just wanted to provide a final update.

My father and I cleaned out the HV plug port and reconnected the battery. The car now shifts into drive and charges.

The only remaining error is "Park Assist Unavailable" but I am hoping that will go away when driven.

I still plan on opening the pack at the contactors to verify that there isn't any water in that section.

Our best theory at the moment is that the driver drove through a deep puddle, which let water into that connector due to the plastic around it being cracked. Once this water was in there, it sat there and corroded the plug, which kept the car from charging and shifting into drive.

The funny thing about this salvage purchase is that we didn't even have to replace any parts. That will be a fun conversation with the inspector.

Thanks for the good news at 11. :)
 

AlphaTango11

Member
Sep 26, 2019
19
18
Fayetteville, Georgia
Thanks, Greg!

We're pretty lucky that the seller was so honest and helpful the vehicle. ;)

By the way, there aren't any errors now and the car is amazing. I had forgotten that the nosecone has parking sensors, so if that's not attached and plugged in, obviously you'll have an error. :)
 
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