2014 Tesla Model S 85 - Build Thread

[cleverscreenam]

Rear end felt more compliant afterwards (but I admit, could be placebo)
But in general, lots of suspension bushings need to be tightened while loaded.

Absolutely. It's real. When I got my car, I maxed out 132mph on a track and felt solid as a rock. Replaced control arms with n2itive, didn't pre-load them, now I can feel wind gusts push me around at 65mph. Going to fix soon with n2itive's completely redesigned arms.

My current preferred shop took 4 hours for alignment with the newly adjustable rear, because I didn't realize that the specs would get all squirrely and jump around from the lack of bushing preload.

xAgyex, thanks for posting the 2021 improved subframe. Seeing those beefed up mounts make me salivate

 

[cleverscreenam]

So basically all Model S before 2022 model can and will have this issue...especially if you have a lead foot.

Yes.

 

[howardc64]

Absolutely. It's real. When I got my car, I maxed out 132mph on a track and felt solid as a rock. Replaced control arms with n2itive, didn't pre-load them, now I can feel wind gusts push me around at 65mph. Going to fix soon with n2itive's completely redesigned arms.

Glad I wasn't imagining things. Just thinking about it, its 3 little bushings (shock, 2 upper links) that wants to return to how they were when tightened unloaded so whenever the car bounce up, its like a little spring action. While they are 3 little bushings, they are evenly distributed over top of the hub/subframe.

Another note back to the post #183 and the loose eccentric on the toe arm. When trying to tighten this while loaded, there is much less space to counter hold the bolt head towards front of the car. The bolt head only has a little room before the underbody. And if not on lift/rack, hard to get a good hold. It would be much easier with a fairly long small head box wrench to counter hold while up on a rack.

 

[xAgyex]

Just a quick update on the sub-frame failure issue. See sanitized invoice below:

No on screen message/errors/warnings were present. Car didn’t flag any issues. Which makes sense as it was a physical part that broke. I probably could have driven it to the service center at slow speeds, but didn’t want to damage anything else, and have AAA for towing.

Welp for a cool $5300 sub-frame and miscellaneous suspension arms are to be replaced. Here is to hoping nothing else goes wrong with batter and or DU after this. Guess all my gas and no oil change savings have been wiped out. Bummer. Soooo, looking at the past 4.5 years of ownership spent a roughly of $11k+ just to maintain her. That includes 4 years and 50k miles of included bumper to bumper warranty.

Still love Tesla cars. But will forever hate Tesla service and repair prices. But no different than owning a Mercedes as far as parts/service prices.

So will not be recommending anyone own a Tesla after warranty is up. At least not an older Model S.

 

[wk057]

Just a quick update on the sub-frame failure issue. See sanitized invoice below:

No on screen message/errors/warnings were present. Car didn’t flag any issues. Which makes sense as it was a physical part that broke. I probably could have driven it to the service center at slow speeds, but didn’t want to damage anything else, and have AAA for towing.

Welp for a cool $5300 sub-frame and miscellaneous suspension arms are to be replaced. Here is to hoping nothing else goes wrong with batter and or DU after this. Guess all my gas and no oil change savings have been wiped out. Bummer. Soooo, looking at the past 4.5 years of ownership spent a roughly of $11k+ just to maintain her. That includes 4 years and 50k miles of included bumper to bumper warranty.

Still love Tesla cars. But will forever hate Tesla service and repair prices. But no different than owning a Mercedes as far as parts/service prices.

So will not be recommending anyone own a Tesla after warranty is up. At least not an older Model S.

 

[brainhouston]

@cleverscreenam...this one is a bit tough for me to figure out short of hitting pot holes and bad roads over the life of the car so far. I think metal fatigue happens. I have taken it to the Owings Mills Tesla Service Center just this afternoon. Lets see what happens. I definitely want to repair it and keep driving it. But lets just say that I am super thankful that over the past 2 years I have been dealing with the car driving strange and doing the same behavior as when this broke...So I knew to not just left of the gas too hard and to not use breaks but to be very gentle with all my inputs. For now I highly recommend all Tesla owners to have AAA Premier membership for that free 200 mile towing. Just in case...well worth its weight in gold. Please cross your figures for me that this doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

Thank you AAA

By any chance was it the same side as the previously loose toe bolt?
That could be correlated, maybe slight slack was bumping that mount on potholes more than it should...

Finally loosen them and tightened while loaded which is a lot harder without car up on a rack or lift (drove up a shallow 5" high ramp and struggled with access and 90Nm torque wrench clearance). Rear end felt more compliant afterwards (but I admit, could be placebo)

But in general, lots of suspension bushings need to be tightened while loaded. Otherwise, normal ride height will be constantly twisting those bushings causing early failure.

Simple solution to this (what i do) is remove the wheel n jack up the suspension (not the car) to normal riding height. Plenty of access this way, didn't even need to remove undershield

So will not be recommending anyone own a Tesla after warranty is up. At least not an older Model S.

Well for average person i agree but for DYIers, it would be ~$300 + 2 days of personal time, like wk057 mentioned.
Nothing wrong with OOW Tesla if u know how to wrench a car.

 

[howardc64]

Simple solution to this (what i do) is remove the wheel n jack up the suspension (not the car) to normal riding height. Plenty of access this way, didn't even need to remove undershield

Yes, do this trick often when installing the suspension. However, on Model S, the counter hold bolt head on the toe link don't have much space to underbody and underbody is curved in a way that counter hold wrench position is probably challenging (probably still have to go out the bottom. And need to counter hold against torquing 90Nm on the nut without moving the eccentric. I'll see whats the best wrench+combo to use next time.

 

[brainhouston]

Yes, do this trick often when installing the suspension. However, on Model S, the counter hold bolt head on the toe link don't have much space to underbody and underbody is curved in a way that counter hold wrench position is probably challenging (probably still have to go out the bottom. And need to counter hold against torquing 90Nm on the nut without moving the eccentric. I'll see whats the best wrench+combo to use next time.

Ahh yes, i forget i have X. must be more room

 

[xAgyex]

Ya madness, but your shop is also very far from me. I think I need to open my own shop. I can wrench, but I have no space and no time...so might need to quit my job and just follow my dreams and finally open an EV repair shop in MD. Because we surely need one here...hahahaha ya right...lets see if that ever happens.

 

[wk057]

Ya madness, but your shop is also very far from me. I think I need to open my own shop. I can wrench, but I have no space and no time...so might need to quit my job and just follow my dreams and finally open an EV repair shop in MD. Because we surely need one here...hahahaha ya right...lets see if that ever happens.

I mean... even with vehicle transport to and from California we'd still be cheaper than Tesla on this. And you're in Balitmore, that's ~$1k round trip transport. I think worst case you'd still be less than half Tesla's rate.

They're charging more for one part than we'd charge for the entire repair. lol

 

[xAgyex]

By any chance was it the same side as the previously loose toe bolt?
That could be correlated, maybe slight slack was bumping that mount on potholes more than it should...


Simple solution to this (what i do) is remove the wheel n jack up the suspension (not the car) to normal riding height. Plenty of access this way, didn't even need to remove undershield


Well for average person i agree but for DYIers, it would be ~$300 + 2 days of personal time, like wk057 mentioned.
Nothing wrong with OOW Tesla if u know how to wrench a car.

1. Yes both sides had loose toe arm bolts...so I plan to bring this up as a correlating event.

2. Wish the issue was just properly torquing down bolts in my case, that is always super easy to do. But in the past have had what I would consider major alignment issues, so taking it in and having them do a full 4 wheel alignment has been best. As clearly I don't have that equipment in my garage.

3. I have very little space in my gargage and I have very little time with work to drop the subframe and replace it. I wish i did, and I think I will need to investigate maybe opening a shop in MD to help all these EV folks out here. At this time I am stuck taking it to Tesla Service...and trust me I hate it to my core.

 

[cleverscreenam]

Ya madness, but your shop is also very far from me.

I mean... rental car, like $80 a day, or maybe you have rental coverage on your auto insurance? I imagine wk057 would take a few days or a week to repair. None of your time lost, someone else drives the car hauler. With the money you save, you could take a vacation

On the other hand, your contribution to Tesla, Inc. will get all our CyberTrucks built sooner.

 

[xAgyex]

I mean... rental car, like $80 a day, or maybe you have rental coverage on your auto insurance? I imagine wk057 would take a few days or a week to repair. None of your time lost, someone else drives the car hauler. With the money you save, you could take a vacation

On the other hand, your contribution to Tesla, Inc. will get all our CyberTrucks built sooner.

Truth.

 

[xAgyex]

At 131,280 Miles

Picked up my car from Owings Mills Service Center on Friday. Overall, the service was pretty good this time around (Minus the huge bill). After driving the car at pick up, I noticed that it was still behaving a little strange in the rear over bumps, so took it back. One of the team members came with me for a drive (they drove) and noted that it drives solid and well. They however again forgot to provide me a print out of the alignment, so I requested it and I had to wait for them to put it back on the rack to do a reprint and possibly they made minor adjustments?..."The printer wasn't working when we did your alignment yesterday," is what I was told. This has been the case the last 3 times they have done my alignment. Very silly to charge someone over $200 for alignment and not provide a print out. But no sweat. They took care of it within 2 hours. RANT OVER.

Overall I would rate this service visit a 8/10. I would have liked a little more communication over the week they had my car, but other than that it was good. The new service associate was kind and she was pleasant to work with. We need more kind folks there for sure.

BTW the diagnosis was:
Diagnosed and found left rear toe link bolt ear broken off rear sub frame. Replaced Rear Sub-frame Assembly. Replaced 2nd Generation Rear Node LH Rear Toe Link Assembly. Replaced 2nd Generation Rear Node RH Rear Toe Link Assembly. Replaced Rear Toe Links to Sub-frame LH/RH Bolts. Performed 4 wheel alignment and test drove with no other problems.

Final price: $5,189.39

Tip #1: Request loaner before you drop your car off to service via the app messaging. They will do their best to have a loaner ready for you.
Tip #2: Ask for any alignment printouts before you go to pick up the car. Yes they should already do this but ask anyways.
Tip #3: Always good to ask for goodwill work when you can. But know that they may not provide goodwill.

After pick up I had a 500 mile+ trip and hit 131313 miles while on the trip. Overall the car drives way better. The rear doesn't wander anymore. Its pretty solid.

I think after this expensive repair, I am finally ready to sell her and move on to another brand EV. But we shall see how long that takes me. I still really love my MS85. Drives like a brand new car, and just has so much room for my needs. Probably wont pull the trigger on selling her for a while. But I certainly do not want anymore expensive bills like this ever again.

Thanks for everyone's help and input and suggestions. I really hope we get an EV shop in MD soon.

 

[xAgyex]

Finally put her up for sale...haha still not sure if I will go through with it, but I am ready for something else...we shall see how it goes. Maybe I keep her for longer, maybe the right deal pushes me to sell. Who knows.

2014 Tesla Model S 85 - Build Thread

Well, it has been a long time coming, but today I picked up my 2014 Tesla Model S 85. I have owned many cars over years, and being a car guy, I fell in love with the Model S the first time my butt touch the seat in one. Over the past year or so I have rented many Model S's and Model X's, and...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[hydro]

Finally put her up for sale...haha still not sure if I will go through with it, but I am ready for something else...we shall see how it goes. Maybe I keep her for longer, maybe the right deal pushes me to sell. Who knows.

2014 Tesla Model S 85 - Build Thread

Well, it has been a long time coming, but today I picked up my 2014 Tesla Model S 85. I have owned many cars over years, and being a car guy, I fell in love with the Model S the first time my butt touch the seat in one. Over the past year or so I have rented many Model S's and Model X's, and...

teslamotorsclub.com

Sorry to see you want to sell ! I appreciate your detailed posts. Thank you for all you shared already. Very informative.

If I may ask, and do not want to hijack your thread (if so, no issue, I will understand), I'd like your input on this : my wife and I have a November 2013 S bought new. Had the battery changed two years ago under warranty for shot contactors. This was a success as the battery is very stable (over 100,000 km ridden since). I just love this propulsion car ! So the situation is this : the right rear upper link is shot and, because we are in snow country, our rear rotors will need to be changed soon as well as a rear wheel bearing that is very noisy as of late. So being at 280,000 km already, we are thinking of doing a major rear overhaul and maybe install N2itive camber/toe kit or we would change camber and toe arms on both sides (Tesla parts if not N2itive), disks and pads (and also pads on the parking brakes), change both rear wheel bearings and also both upper links like mentioned initially. I'd go to an independent shop for the first time as last time Tesla worked on the suspension it took four visits and 9 months (parts delays and 3 rescheduling) and even after all that there was still a loose right front tire rod nut !

Other than the parts listed above, should I order all the surrounding hardware (bolts, nuts, etc.) or can we use the existing hardware ? Also, your post about the sub frame scares me. Can my independent shop check it out before hand ( I know the guy and he's into racing and has his on shop for the past 15 years but has never worked on a Tesla yet) and confirm without a doubt that the sub frame and brackets are fine or should I go to Tesla first to have them check it out (at this point I am less confident about their competence). Also, would you go with Tesla parts of jobber (rotors, pads, bearings) would be ok and if so, which brand is better.

That's it )

 

[cleverscreenam]

Man, from falling in love to dumping in 4 years? What happened to till-death-do-us-part?
So, what's the price?

The Porsche Taycan is a comparable model, sportier and almost the same real-range, but with maybe 60% of the cargo space. Maybe it'll even have rear cup holders for the kids!

 

[xAgyex]

Sorry to see you want to sell ! I appreciate your detailed posts. Thank you for all you shared already. Very informative.

If I may ask, and do not want to hijack your thread (if so, no issue, I will understand), I'd like your input on this : my wife and I have a November 2013 S bought new. Had the battery changed two years ago under warranty for shot contactors. This was a success as the battery is very stable (over 100,000 km ridden since). I just love this propulsion car ! So the situation is this : the right rear upper link is shot and, because we are in snow country, our rear rotors will need to be changed soon as well as a rear wheel bearing that is very noisy as of late. So being at 280,000 km already, we are thinking of doing a major rear overhaul and maybe install N2itive camber/toe kit or we would change camber and toe arms on both sides (Tesla parts if not N2itive), disks and pads (and also pads on the parking brakes), change both rear wheel bearings and also both upper links like mentioned initially. I'd go to an independent shop for the first time as last time Tesla worked on the suspension it took four visits and 9 months (parts delays and 3 rescheduling) and even after all that there was still a loose right front tire rod nut !

Other than the parts listed above, should I order all the surrounding hardware (bolts, nuts, etc.) or can we use the existing hardware ? Also, your post about the sub frame scares me. Can my independent shop check it out before hand ( I know the guy and he's into racing and has his on shop for the past 15 years but has never worked on a Tesla yet) and confirm without a doubt that the sub frame and brackets are fine or should I go to Tesla first to have them check it out (at this point I am less confident about their competence). Also, would you go with Tesla parts of jobber (rotors, pads, bearings) would be ok and if so, which brand is better.

That's it )

Hi @hydro , I would highly recommend to get the N2itive camber and tow arms if you are having any weird issues and or if you have lowered your car...but if your MS is stock then the OEM camber and toe arms are amazing. I was going to get the N2itive arms done this summer, but my sub-frame issue happened. And Tesla Service replaced both my camber and toe arms with the latest version of them, and they are amazing. I didn't realize how lazy the rear of my car had been. The car is like brand new to me now.

I am not an expert but I think all the bolts can be reused maybe minus the toe arm bolts as they might need to be but off. Please verify with your local shop or Tesla Service Center (You can ask them in the App). If you have a trusted shop near you, please please please use them. They should be able to look it over and give you all the details and info you need. You do not need Tesla Service. Unfortunately, for me I do not know or have any trusted shops near me, so I am stuck using Tesla Service.

Tesla parts to me are the way to go if your MS is stock. They work fine. Just like any car parts age and should be changed out especially after 100k miles. But overall I think their parts are good. Just expensive.

I hope I answered all your questions. In the end I think your trusted local shop will be the best source for details on what you need.

 

[xAgyex]

Man, from falling in love to dumping in 4 years? What happened to till-death-do-us-part?
So, what's the price?

The Porsche Taycan is a comparable model, sportier and almost the same real-range, but with maybe 60% of the cargo space. Maybe it'll even have rear cup holders for the kids!

Hahhaha @cleverscreenam don't get me wrong...I freaken love this car. Best car ever. Honestly, until I find a suitable buyer, I am still driving her and enjoying her. I already got my snow tires on (Nokien HR3). So going to be doing some winter and snow driving. The truth of the matter is that Tesla Service and parts and labor costs has been the worse. My problem isn't with the car at all. I mean my sub-frame breaking really sucks and seems like a freak accident. I think I want to try another EV brand so that I can help folks out there too. I have reached a point with Tesla where I can safely guide my family and friends when they are buying one. But I honestly hate on the other EVs so, figured maybe I jump ship to learn and live it for a while. And in doing so hopefully I find a better Service experience. Then I can also help guide my family and friends in the future. If I can find a Taycan for a reasonable price sure. But I am not ready to spend that kind of money...hahah I will rather buy more Tesla stock.

 

[hydro]

Great, thanks for your help. Hope you stick around Tesla. Cheers