I bought a 2014 model S 85 last month and i am having issues with the 12v battery. I figured out if i plug in car at home or supercharger it will keep the 12v battery charged as it should. Car always runs perfect when the screens are on. Never had any error codes. Then i can drive it for hours and everything is perfect. But i will go to a gas station and get something inside and 5mins later the 12v battery has too be jumped to start again? I replaced the 12v hoping it was the issue but it still does the same thing with new battery. i cant figure out what is going on. if the dc to dc charges while driving and the screens are on. and it charges while plugged into to any charger. why would it not charge the 12v battery while driving sometimes and then have the 12v die in 5 mins if i walk away from the car? I can leave the key in and door ajar and walk away and it wont die. but if i go inside and the key is far enough away the car will turn off and not restart without a jump? Anyboy have any clue? service is 3hrs one way.
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2014 tesla s 12v dies in 5min
- Thread starter AdamF1
- Start date
Tam
Well-Known Member
Since you already replaced the 12v battery, so that's not the cause.
It sounds like you'll need Service Center to figure that out.
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
Camp mode or the "on" setting in climate control should keep the car from sleeping.
Turn off the "a/c" and then you'll use less power.
Doors will lock with the "on" setting.
Turn off the "a/c" and then you'll use less power.
Doors will lock with the "on" setting.
vcor
Tech Specialist
@AdamF1 This is hard to say. It's possible the 12v battery ground is intermittent, although I'd expect problems when driving under vibration. The reason it would not say low 12v battery is it sounds like the battery goes from 14v to 0v, so there is no power to log the error. If it was a charging problem, the battery would lose power slowly and trip the low 12v battery warning. It could also be an intermittent short somewhere in the 12v system perhaps inside the battery or on top of the battery. Again, you'd expect a short to show up under vibration, not when standing still. I hope once you find out the problem, you return here and let us know. Definitely an unusual problem.
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
If you go to an auto parts store or mechanic they can test your 12volt when you shut the car down.
On your computer "safety" page you can shutdown the system if there's no voltage drop right away. Keep your door open so the system doesn't wake up.
If it drops right away that's more likely a defective battery. If it's a slow drop then something could be draining it.
On your computer "safety" page you can shutdown the system if there's no voltage drop right away. Keep your door open so the system doesn't wake up.
If it drops right away that's more likely a defective battery. If it's a slow drop then something could be draining it.
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
There's probably a mechanic in your area that works on hybrids, they can replace the battery.
Hopefully it'll save you a 6hour trip.
Hopefully it'll save you a 6hour trip.
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
This sounds almost exactly the problem I'm having. It just started recently, after the 2022.26(?).2 release.
Now I'm getting a warning that the car is undrivable, won't start, and it sure seems like the 12v battery is dead or near dead. Pushing on the brake pedal has the usually short sound of the ABS system making a longer groan.
2014 S85 -- could this be a recent software update issue that broke 12v charging or something?
Now I'm getting a warning that the car is undrivable, won't start, and it sure seems like the 12v battery is dead or near dead. Pushing on the brake pedal has the usually short sound of the ABS system making a longer groan.
2014 S85 -- could this be a recent software update issue that broke 12v charging or something?
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
I'm not too sure; I've only had the car 2 years but it has 360k miles on it.
Ug, just got a quote and updated appointment from the SC. First they were going to send out a mobile tech on Monday. Then they sent this attached quote and said that I need to have the car towed in because of "additional issues".
$165 for the battery, yeah, well. $100 to install? Beats me doing it, but just barely if the YouTube I saw is accurate.
But a tow is going to cost more than the whole $410 estimate, and what's this $127 "General Diagnosis" fee?
I asked if they could just send out the mobile tech to change the battery and then we'll see if it moves, but they won't do it.
This is from the same SC that, when installing an MCU2 upgrade about two months ago, claimed that TuneIn was a separate piece of hardware that wasn't included in the $2500 price! They later figured out that some authorization tokens didn't get installed correctly, but you can imagine my reaction when the "senior technician" told me TuneIn was hardware.
Why is it not possible to choose the Service Center you want to use?
Ug, just got a quote and updated appointment from the SC. First they were going to send out a mobile tech on Monday. Then they sent this attached quote and said that I need to have the car towed in because of "additional issues".
$165 for the battery, yeah, well. $100 to install? Beats me doing it, but just barely if the YouTube I saw is accurate.
But a tow is going to cost more than the whole $410 estimate, and what's this $127 "General Diagnosis" fee?
I asked if they could just send out the mobile tech to change the battery and then we'll see if it moves, but they won't do it.
This is from the same SC that, when installing an MCU2 upgrade about two months ago, claimed that TuneIn was a separate piece of hardware that wasn't included in the $2500 price! They later figured out that some authorization tokens didn't get installed correctly, but you can imagine my reaction when the "senior technician" told me TuneIn was hardware.
Why is it not possible to choose the Service Center you want to use?
vcor
Tech Specialist
I've always been able to select the service center, although not necessarily mobile service. I have about 7 service centers within 20 miles and often do not select the default closest one.
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
My 12v has been working fine again. I replaced the 12v battery sensor on the negative cable. And found a loose positive battery cable. Now the 12v light still comes back every 2-3 days even after i hard reset with wheel config. If the car has a fault due too a loose cable or something will it keep throwing the 12v error? Is there some kind of memory of the fault with that specific battery?
It might. Post refresh is listed as AGM, but prerefresh doesn't call it out epc.tesla.com . Some people say a software update is needed after replacement...
What is 12v battery replacement cost
Well, I came home and the car started and drove fine. Everything seems to work, no notifications. Hmm.
The notification I got was not specific to the 12v battery, so now I'm a little suspicious of other problems. I was able to look in where the battery is (hidden in the corner behind the cabin air intake on mine, not up front and easy to get to like I thought), and I can see some leakage. Since I have no idea how old the battery is (maybe they'll tell me when I replace it, maybe not), I might as well get it replaced anyway. Good news is that I don't think I'll need to have it towed.
Anyway, I'm going to bring it in tomorrow for a Tuesday appointment, while it's still (hopefully) running.
Kinda wish I hadn't uploaded that estimate with all that personal data in it. Anyone know how I might take it down? Should have scanned a copy with details redacted, oops.
The notification I got was not specific to the 12v battery, so now I'm a little suspicious of other problems. I was able to look in where the battery is (hidden in the corner behind the cabin air intake on mine, not up front and easy to get to like I thought), and I can see some leakage. Since I have no idea how old the battery is (maybe they'll tell me when I replace it, maybe not), I might as well get it replaced anyway. Good news is that I don't think I'll need to have it towed.
I'd really like to know how to do that -- when I click on "Service" in the app, I never see any choice. It usually starts a mobile appointment, then something happens (presumably a human looks at some diagnostics), then I get another appointment auto-scheduled from the nearest SC. Maybe if I select "Change Appointment" I can select another SC?
Anyway, I'm going to bring it in tomorrow for a Tuesday appointment, while it's still (hopefully) running.
Kinda wish I hadn't uploaded that estimate with all that personal data in it. Anyone know how I might take it down? Should have scanned a copy with details redacted, oops.
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