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2015 door handle presents but doesnt open. Replaced microswitch. Didnt work.

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Driver door handle presents, but doesnt open. I ordered the microswitch assembly (2 microswitch and wire assembly) and did the repair.

Put is all back together, no luck. Window goes down slightly in prep to open door, makes noise when you pull the handle, but doesnt unlatch and open the door.

I am at my wits end after about 6 hours and 50 bucks for the part. Any suggestions before I break down and call mobile service? Could it be the door controller, or wire harness, or a fuse? Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated - as most are just solved with a new microswitch. I am one of the unlucky ones.

THANKS
 
Thanks. I have read every thread that I could find. Most of them are fixed with the microswitch. The monster 13 page thread doesnt have a fix for what I have. I really have tried and done my homework on this - this is not covered by anything I have seen on this forum or anywhere else.
 
Gaswalla - I get it. I have replaced 6 door handles so far - so I was just trying to become more familiar with them through trial and error - but mostly error! I scheduled with a mobile ranger. Soonest appt is 7 days away - so I figure I will do anything I can in the meantime. You are right - 279 is definitely not worth all of this mess - but here I am lol....
 
I will. I have to dig it out (again) and dont have the energy tonight. I will do it in the AM.

I am beginning to think it is the latch itself. It makes the noise like it is trying to unlatch, but doesnt. Going to research that line of troubleshooting.
 
Just to update the thread.... I have ordered a new door latch actuator assembly PN 6008913-00-C .

I am fairly certain this is the problem, as the old one is whining and trying to move the latch but cant. I will update the thread in case anyone is using it for future purposes over the weekend when I install the new part.
 
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Driver door handle presents, but doesnt open. I ordered the microswitch assembly (2 microswitch and wire assembly) and did the repair.

Put is all back together, no luck. Window goes down slightly in prep to open door, makes noise when you pull the handle, but doesnt unlatch and open the door.

I am at my wits end after about 6 hours and 50 bucks for the part. Any suggestions before I break down and call mobile service? Could it be the door controller, or wire harness, or a fuse? Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated - as most are just solved with a new microswitch. I am one of the unlucky ones.

THANKS
I fixed mine by repairing the broken wires on the switch, $0 but 4 hrs work. Yesterday fixed another door and the repair kit I got from Amazon for $55 had switches that were a different size and would not work so I had to put the old good ones back in. If you got an Amazon kit that may be the problem.
 
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To update the thread in case anyone in the future needs it...

The new door latch actuator fixed it. I had a choice between an OEM (used) latch actuator on EBAY for about $55, or a new aftermarket latch actuator on Amazon for $73 made by a company called "A-Premium". I chose the Amazon new part. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09P55LY1S/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installed it all, tested, and it worked right away. Put it all back together and now as good as new. The new lock latch has a more solid feel to me than the Tesla original, not sure if it is because I am comparing it to the other doors on my 2015 that are now close to 8 years old - but it feels more "solid" than the other ones. But overall - not too much of a difference.

I started this journey with every post saying it was the microswitches "almost all" of the time - and found out I was one of the few and proud who needed the latch. Hope this helps someone. The quote from Tesla was $850, and with the new microswitches and latch I spent $105.

Thanks to all of the help in the thread - including the tip about Florida Electrified Garage. I didnt know about them - and it is great to know!
 
To update the thread in case anyone in the future needs it...

The new door latch actuator fixed it. I had a choice between an OEM (used) latch actuator on EBAY for about $55, or a new aftermarket latch actuator on Amazon for $73 made by a company called "A-Premium". I chose the Amazon new part. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09P55LY1S/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installed it all, tested, and it worked right away. Put it all back together and now as good as new. The new lock latch has a more solid feel to me than the Tesla original, not sure if it is because I am comparing it to the other doors on my 2015 that are now close to 8 years old - but it feels more "solid" than the other ones. But overall - not too much of a difference.

I started this journey with every post saying it was the microswitches "almost all" of the time - and found out I was one of the few and proud who needed the latch. Hope this helps someone. The quote from Tesla was $850, and with the new microswitches and latch I spent $105.

Thanks to all of the help in the thread - including the tip about Florida Electrified Garage. I didnt know about them - and it is great to know!
Could you share how to replace the door latch actuator? Can't find a procedure anywhere
 
To update the thread in case anyone in the future needs it...

The new door latch actuator fixed it. I had a choice between an OEM (used) latch actuator on EBAY for about $55, or a new aftermarket latch actuator on Amazon for $73 made by a company called "A-Premium". I chose the Amazon new part. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09P55LY1S/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installed it all, tested, and it worked right away. Put it all back together and now as good as new. The new lock latch has a more solid feel to me than the Tesla original, not sure if it is because I am comparing it to the other doors on my 2015 that are now close to 8 years old - but it feels more "solid" than the other ones. But overall - not too much of a difference.

I started this journey with every post saying it was the microswitches "almost all" of the time - and found out I was one of the few and proud who needed the latch. Hope this helps someone. The quote from Tesla was $850, and with the new microswitches and latch I spent $105.

Thanks to all of the help in the thread - including the tip about Florida Electrified Garage. I didnt know about them - and it is great to know!
My 2015 S now doing the same. Window is slightly down and stays that way. The actuator is dead. I used the carpet door access emergency pull cord below the seat wall to open the door. Can any body share how to remove interior trims to get to this back left actuator?