Help for no reason my passenger side of the car went dead yesterday. The doors wont present or open from the outside and the windows will not function. The side mirror is also not functioning with no door lights too. Tesla suggested it could be the ground stud. I pulled the frunk and the ground stud looks fine. The headlights work too. The only thing dead is from the passenger door to the back door on the passenger side. When I open the door from the inside the window drops like its suppose to and goes back up when the door is shut so there is power . I am so confused what it could be. I looked at the wiring going to the door and I dont see any damage from mice etc. any idea ?? i cant afford an expensive diagnostics and the first opening at Tesla is the end of the month and I drive my car every day. Thanks for any help.
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2015 Model S No power to Passenger Door windows and side mirror
- Thread starter LTUAE42
- Start date
I'd start with examining the fuse box to see how it's wired. Should be labeled and you'll be able to see if there is a common fuse to this issue. Would seem weird to have different fuses for each side but I've seen stranger designs. Try unplugging and reconnecting door plugs on the affected side and see if things change. A little carbon buildup can cause really crazy stuff. In the old days we used to use an eraser to clean male spade lug tips. It's weak advice but something to try until you get someone who really knows the wiring.
Been working with Tesla today on the phone and they are pointing to The door control unit or the wire harness itself. No way to tell till they get it in the shop and look at it. I checked the fuses and the ground and it all looks good. I cant change the control modular myself because I would need a system called tool box that I dont have. They use that to program the modular. I was going to buy a used one online and replace myself but I dont think I can now. Cost is 350 for the modular and 58 for labor. It never ends
Hi I have what seems to be the identical problem - after not driving the car for a few weeks, and a spell of cold weather the passenger side door handles front and rear don't present, the mirror doesn't fold, and the window controls don't operate.
Were you able to find a resolution ? thanks in advance.
Were you able to find a resolution ? thanks in advance.
Gtech
Active Member
Maybe a lucky shot but the door grommets are also a weak spot for wires in the model S.
Check this person's door wiring harness:
Rear door wont open if front door is open
I go in 3 feb to have it fixed. It is the wire harness or the door control module. more then likely its a broken wire in the wire harness. I spent thelast few days trouble shooting the ground etc. Tesla tech said based on experiences it is typically the wire harness. Door control modules dont brake that often. The wire harness is a little over $200 and labor about $195 for the repair . I will let you know the final when they do the work.
Latham Tesla service station figured out the problem today and fixed it. The door handle passenger side shorted and blew the fuse to the door control module killing power to both passenger doors. They replaced the the door handle and fuse and final price with diagnostics was 472.00 PS after I picked up the car my Chip went bad and my touch screen stop working right. I had no music or heat control. I called them and they had me return the car for the recall with the chip. I am back in the loaner Tesla and was told sometime next week they will have my chip replaced . Goodtimes
The mobile tech just left, supposed to only replace the driver door handle assembly. It stopped auto-presenting, sounded like the gears broke. After 3hrs he gave me an update, both doors on driver side lost power, no windows, no door handles. Said he tried to isolate the issue, reverse his steps, checked all wiring (all untouched and no sign of damage),changed door module but even with that still no power, rebooted the car several times. Verdict at that time, must be towed to SC for further diagnostic. Possibly bad electrical wiring.
my question is: all is well prior to his visit, sounded like a simple door handle replacement, known issue. Now I have an electrical wiring issue? I asked him to check the fuse. Said I don’t have the same car as the last post, my car have fuse for both front doors, both rear doors.
my question is: all is well prior to his visit, sounded like a simple door handle replacement, known issue. Now I have an electrical wiring issue? I asked him to check the fuse. Said I don’t have the same car as the last post, my car have fuse for both front doors, both rear doors.
Did he check any of the fuses ? it sounds like he shorted the fuse to the door mod
Did he check the fuses ? It sounds like he caused a short replacing the handle to the door module . If you had power before the repair then odds are he caused the other problem. The only other option was that the wire harness has an issue going to the door. Maybe a wire that broke but it seems unlikely that happened when he was working on the car. what model Tesla do you have and year ? I saw the fuse when they repaired mine and it was blown causing power lose to the whole right side of the car. Window, mirrors and handles all dead before they replaced the handle and fuse. All working fine now. Things dont sound right with his diagnoses if you ask me. Even if it has separate fuses the lose of power to that side means a broken wire(unlikely) or blown fuses. If he put a new door module in and it didnt work its not getting power period witch would mean blown fuse. how old is your car ?
ajbessinger
Owner of QC Charge #2 (Portland OR)
Did you ever find out what the issue was? I have the exact same issue on my car, seems that most of the controls dont work on either driver side door.
Ok I figured this out, I have a 2015 mode s with the same problem door handles did not come out mirror didn't work, windows would not roll up or down for both front and back of the doors on my driver side. It has a broken wire going to the door control unit, its the two wire and is blue. When the car is on it should have power here and mine did not. So I jumped it and everything started working. I than ran a new wire the same as the other ones. I connected the wire with little blue connectors to bypass the broken wireshttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1e_vbQ6HNi615syuU60TZldQ-m7ht17_C/view?usp=sharing
I have figured this out. Its a broke wire in the wiring harness. The wire is baby blue and goes to the door control unit. On the door control unit its the far left two wire plug. The baby blue wire is not getting power as the wire is broke. Its in the left front Kick panel, it is the baby blue next to a large white one. Its a 20 wire (white) plugged into a gray. I ran a new cable and use quick connectors the blue one that tap in the wire. My doors and mirror works now.
Yeah I can see - the new wire is red. But when You say that You ran a new wire, where did You make the connection on the other end? You went all the way through the door into the cabin? I'm having a hard time finding where its broken and how far should I run a new one...
I've got similar issue, 2013 MS P85. Both driver-side door handles WON'T RETRACT, and the handle curtesy/puddle lighting remains illuminated, no windows operable (but the door opening causes window to drop 1/4" as customary), extended driver side door handles will open car even after "locking" car, and get message in app about driver window down - its not).
Wish I found this post sooner. Tesla service said they found fuse box stud loose and likely causing problem since bad contact. Quoted $550 to replace fuse box to solve issue of broken stud...apparently they already cut off the stud post/bolt or whatever, and new fuse box ready to install. Guess I OK'd that repair.
Oh, and since I took a few days before getting into service, the handle lights drained the low volt battery (older cars don't have electron-sharing like newer models or M3/MY) and so now I get to have a new 12V battery as part of the deal (on my dime, naturally as out of warranty). SO that's another $165 for battery and $50 for install/remove (I suppose this is relative bargain in Tesla service realm).
If it is indeed a bad wire, then my fuse box was replaced without merit and I'll still have an issue after they've found my issue. Only time will tell.
Wish I found this post sooner. Tesla service said they found fuse box stud loose and likely causing problem since bad contact. Quoted $550 to replace fuse box to solve issue of broken stud...apparently they already cut off the stud post/bolt or whatever, and new fuse box ready to install. Guess I OK'd that repair.
Oh, and since I took a few days before getting into service, the handle lights drained the low volt battery (older cars don't have electron-sharing like newer models or M3/MY) and so now I get to have a new 12V battery as part of the deal (on my dime, naturally as out of warranty). SO that's another $165 for battery and $50 for install/remove (I suppose this is relative bargain in Tesla service realm).
If it is indeed a bad wire, then my fuse box was replaced without merit and I'll still have an issue after they've found my issue. Only time will tell.
Update: SC tech said I needed fuse box as stud was loose and causing short to low volt battery, so they replaced. That did not fix issue, of course. So after 3 days in SC, and after I posted text to advisor it was most likely a broken wire in main door harness or possibly fuse in door controller, it was the former (THANK YOU TMC COMMUNITY!). So $210 for diagnosis, and another $210 for repairing the wire (surprised, but happy, they did not just replace entire wiring harness). Happy to just be out of sub-par ICE loaner car (poetic)!
I'm having the same issue. Drivers side windows and doors no power. Tap the handle and the car lights up and passenger side presents (auto-present turned off). I have to get in and open from the inside window drop for opening door works. I checked fuses good. I unplug and reseat the first plug closest to the front in the drivers door it comes back up. Worked for 2 days. Reseated again and after an hour dead. I checked the cables and harnesses I see. I don't see any loose or broken. I'm not sure if its my module or maybe something else shorting making it shut down. I believe someone mentioned earlier that there was some sort of fuse in the controller. If that is the case the fuse would blow and the controller would not come back on. My guess is the controller itself at this point. Anyone else have this issue where it works when reseated then cuts out again?
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