Alright team, its been a minute since I've been on here. I recently acquired a 2015 P85D, it has about 84k miles on it. Had it for a few days now. It seems to be in pretty good shape however I am noticing a little battery drain as well as faster than what I see to be "normal" range percentage drain while driving. I have had two model 3 performances(2020,2022) but this is my first Model S. I have a full post purchase diagnostic set up with Electrified Garage on Thursday as well as a service appointment with Tesla on the 20th. Any recommendations?
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2015 P85D, 84K... What to worry about....
- Thread starter eakrish
- Start date
As a previous owner of a 2013 Model S P85, there are a few things that happen to the older cars. With a 2015, maybe you won't see these issues as much, but here is what to look out for...
* Drive unit noise; may need replacement at some point
* Door handle issues; either rebuild with an eBay kit or replace
* MCU1 upgrade - well worth it to upgrade to MCU2; you get a new driver screen as well as a new main screen and the computer behind it. Much better performance, better graphics, etc.
* Does the car have 21" wheels? Alignment issues may cause tires to wear faster than you'd expect, especially on the rear (on the inside edge). Aftermarket adjustable camber arms can help with that.
Those are the bigger issues I can think of right now...
* Drive unit noise; may need replacement at some point
* Door handle issues; either rebuild with an eBay kit or replace
* MCU1 upgrade - well worth it to upgrade to MCU2; you get a new driver screen as well as a new main screen and the computer behind it. Much better performance, better graphics, etc.
* Does the car have 21" wheels? Alignment issues may cause tires to wear faster than you'd expect, especially on the rear (on the inside edge). Aftermarket adjustable camber arms can help with that.
Those are the bigger issues I can think of right now...
beatle
Active Member
EG should know a lot more about what to check than most people on this forum, but here are a few suggestions:
Check the rear DU for coolant by pulling off the speed sensor.
Check brakes for corrosion/pad deposits/warping.
Check sunroof operation (they may squeal or fail outright).
Check for bugs in tail lights.
Check for the steering rack bolt recall.
Check sway bar end links for play.
Check vibration on front half shafts under hard acceleration.
Check levels on the suspension after it has been sitting for a day or two.
Check MCU1 recall unless it has already been updated to MCU2 (recommended).
They might have the means to check battery health as well. What does the car show for range @ 90% or 100%?
My car drinks battery even while sitting. I lose about 1.25 - 1.5kwh per day.
Check the rear DU for coolant by pulling off the speed sensor.
Check brakes for corrosion/pad deposits/warping.
Check sunroof operation (they may squeal or fail outright).
Check for bugs in tail lights.
Check for the steering rack bolt recall.
Check sway bar end links for play.
Check vibration on front half shafts under hard acceleration.
Check levels on the suspension after it has been sitting for a day or two.
Check MCU1 recall unless it has already been updated to MCU2 (recommended).
They might have the means to check battery health as well. What does the car show for range @ 90% or 100%?
My car drinks battery even while sitting. I lose about 1.25 - 1.5kwh per day.
EG will do a really thorough inspection (I did the same up for my used 2014 purchase up at their NH location). Once you get back their punch list of things that need attention, be aware that some things can be done by a non-Tesla mechanic because they're not EV-specific. You can save a fair amount on labor that way, and in some cases you also can save money by sourcing your own parts.
Things I was not expecting to find b/c there were no symptoms I could recognize: torn bushings on lower suspension arms; leaking drive unit axle seals. I had a non-T mechanic replace the suspension parts, but I'm bringing the car to Tesla to replace the axle seals.
Things I was not expecting to find b/c there were no symptoms I could recognize: torn bushings on lower suspension arms; leaking drive unit axle seals. I had a non-T mechanic replace the suspension parts, but I'm bringing the car to Tesla to replace the axle seals.
Alysashley79
Active Member
You mentioned more loss than normal (from your experience) and more loss during driving. Can you be more specific?
I had/have a P85D (it’s now a 90kw locked to 85) it loses about 2% just after charging and then maybe 1% per day just sitting. I get about 3 miles per % while driving unless my foot is heavy and then it’s quite a bit more.
I also have an m3 and will say the S will always drain more than the 3 because it’s so much heavier and the motors use more energy than the 3’s (different types of motors)
I had/have a P85D (it’s now a 90kw locked to 85) it loses about 2% just after charging and then maybe 1% per day just sitting. I get about 3 miles per % while driving unless my foot is heavy and then it’s quite a bit more.
I also have an m3 and will say the S will always drain more than the 3 because it’s so much heavier and the motors use more energy than the 3’s (different types of motors)
Sure, I can try. Basically, as soon as I unplug and the car is sitting(happened yesterday at Universal Studios)the car drained about 5 percent in about 6ish hrs. Driving it home from Orlando(about a 107 mile trip) it went from 94% to about 36%. Its in the garage as we speak not charging, so I can report back.
ayavner
Member
I turned off Summon. It doesn't work very well on our older units (if at all), and all it does is sit there and wait for a signal.
Alysashley79
Active Member
It originally came with an 85kw pack. Two months ago it died. No idea why. Just got up to leave one morning and it was dead. Tesla put in a 90kw pack but it’s software locked to 85kw (which honestly is fine by me. It has more power than it used to have and when I super to max charge because it’s not really at max it slams home at a high rate.
Alysashley79
Active Member
so a couple questions. Why 94%? (Best charging practice would be to not charge over 90% unless you need it and plan to immediately drive. When you unplugged did you unplug from a supercharger or home?
Going from 94% down to 36% does feel a little bit to much. In the summer I can usually get closer to mile for mile driving (unless it’s spirited driving which is all together different)
Lastly. You can send tesla a message in the app and ask them to run battery diagnostics and they can tell you if it’s doing what it’s supposed to.
BrownOuttaSpec
Active Member
The drain is most likely from cabin overheat protection. It will turn on and run the A/C to keep the car less than 105°F. I can imagine that in Orlando,FL in August it will kick on and run very often, hence the 5% drain seems about normal.
Also, it was a wall charger they had. A question on the wall charger actually: I have a 2nd Gen Wall connector. It was charging my model 3 performance at 48a through a 60a fuse… however, on the model s, it’s only charging at 40a. I looked it up, should accept up to 11.5kw but it’s staying at 9kw. I checked the app, there is no way to increase it like there was on the model 3. Any thoughts on that?
beatle
Active Member
BrownOuttaSpec
Active Member
40amp is the max your car could do with a single on board charger, if you had the option installed on the car from the factory it was possible to have dual chargers for 80a. It changed sometime around 2017, this is the current page that isn't applicable to your car: Onboard Charger
There are older archives of the page here: Onboard Charger
I think it is possible to retrofit, but really not worth the money. My random guess is that it would cost $3,000+ (probably way more) and you would need a 3rd party company to do it. A thread about it here: Adding dual/twin on board charger
Some more historical reading: Charging forward with the Tesla Model S
beatle
Active Member
I think there are some reputable 3rd party outfits out there that will do it. Since you're already taking your car to EG, I would ask them. I don't think the juice is worth the squeeze though.
Tesla discontinued the dual chargers as a lot of people didn't opt for them. With a relatively small battery (compared to a Lightning, Rivian, or Hummer EV) charging at 80A overnight just means your overnight charge finishes at midnight instead of 5am, and the second charger is an additional failure point. I believe the car will not charge if one of the onboard chargers faults; they're not redundant.
Tesla also offered a single 72A charger for a period of time as well, but 48A is the standard now. The HPWC that Tesla sells only goes to 48A so you'd need to source a discontinued gen1 or gen2 HPWC and run big wires capable of supporting a 100A circuit to get all 80A into your car.
Tesla discontinued the dual chargers as a lot of people didn't opt for them. With a relatively small battery (compared to a Lightning, Rivian, or Hummer EV) charging at 80A overnight just means your overnight charge finishes at midnight instead of 5am, and the second charger is an additional failure point. I believe the car will not charge if one of the onboard chargers faults; they're not redundant.
Tesla also offered a single 72A charger for a period of time as well, but 48A is the standard now. The HPWC that Tesla sells only goes to 48A so you'd need to source a discontinued gen1 or gen2 HPWC and run big wires capable of supporting a 100A circuit to get all 80A into your car.
