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2015 tesla model s break pedal stuck down

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I drove my car 3 miles, parked it for 8 hours, yet when I get in my car it’s beeping like crazy. Break pedal is stuck down so I cannot shift or release it by pressing on it like usual. It was 29* out and it previously rained the days before, but not the day off. The picture below is of all the errors that just showed up:

Any thoughts?? Am going to call service tomorrow and set something up. Will post the results when I have them!
 

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Is the arm holding the pedal broken? Did you lose your hydraulic fluid? Can you pull the pedal toward you with your hand and then press on it to start the car? Do you have any brakes even if you could start the car?
Arm holding the pedal is fine. Almost impossible to tell if I lost hydraulic fluid as it snowed heavily here and melted. I wedged my foot under the pedal and gave it a nice little tug back towards me. No movement and I stopped because I didn’t want to put too much force. So car turns on but is stuck in park. When I go to press on break pedal to shift gears nothing happens. Break peddle is fully down and changing it to drive does not work. It stays in park.
 
update: my exterior lights turned on without me in it a couple hours ago. Went into the console and turned lights from auto to off. Hopefully that will save the battery till I can get serviced.

You could try to pull the fuse for the iBooster and check if the pedal recovers. Errors will maintain but theoretical the car could be movable but without power brakes so watch out.

Otherwise I think car remains awake because brake switch is in 'brake' position.
 
solution: Dropped it off Tuesday morning with the tow even though apt was Thursday Am. They called me Wednesday around lunch explaining that the 12v had been set up wrong. There were a couple wires on the fuse box that were not fully tightened causing slack.

This is interesting as I recently bought a fuse box to replace my last one which had this problem. The thread in particular on the first fuse box was the negative connection. Had it get stuck on and had to angle grind it off. Although If you would grab the positive thread you could move it up and down. So I bought a replacement.

The used replacement fixed the old problem but presented a new. 3 of the silver threads “look at picture for example”
were missing. To my knowledge they can pop down, but once down they do not stick again. So I took some mounting tape ripped it up to the tiny little silver backing and stuck them in. From there I was able to grab a hold of the thread and screw. My idea is what happened to my car is similar to the first fuse box issue but with different wires. The tech said all he had to do was tighten and everything worked perfect.

 
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solution: Dropped it off Tuesday morning with the tow even though apt was Thursday Am. They called me Wednesday around lunch explaining that the 12v had been set up wrong. There were a couple wires on the fuse box that were not fully tightened causing slack.

This is interesting as I recently bought a fuse box to replace my last one which had this problem. The thread in particular on the first fuse box was the negative connection. Had it get stuck on and had to angle grind it off. Although If you would grab the positive thread you could move it up and down. So I bought a replacement.

The used replacement fixed the old problem but presented a new. 3 of the silver threads “look at picture for example”
were missing. To my knowledge they can pop down, but once down they do not stick again. So I took some mounting tape ripped it up to the tiny little silver backing and stuck them in. From there I was able to grab a hold of the thread and screw. My idea is what happened to my car is similar to the first fuse box issue but with different wires. The tech said all he had to do was tighten and everything worked perfect.

how did it get setup wrong and loose? someone touched before?
 
how did it get setup wrong and loose? someone touched before?
I am guessing time and wear, most likely a thread not entirely secured. I installed it 5 months ago with no problem other than the initial one. However during the Christmas cold front my 12v disconnected but was revived simply by attaching charging cables. I am curious as to what could cause this since it was fine when I installed it until recently. Wish I could have received more info but can’t complain since I didn’t pay for the service.
 
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Hey, I'm having a similar issue in my MS 2015 - Tesla SC can't fix/replicate, but happening daily, only on start up in morning. See errors in screenshot. I suspected a software issue but maybe 12V battery related. Any thoughts ?
 

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