Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Tesla for Sale' started by Cram collision, Mar 27, 2018.
In my listening I asked please Pm me on questions. I'm busy but will take time to reply to serious offers. In the Tesla world this car is the black sheep no (pun intended!! )I'm not going to post the vin or give a ton details public. I've been furtinate to have help from the Tesla community and in return was ask to be discrete hope all interested understand and if not interested with respect just pass this listing by.
Honestly after the feed back and toughcrowd here I did list it locally for 52,000 on Craigs list. I apologize for not updating the listing sooner.
I'd hardly describe as a tough crowd a bunch of potential buyers who want to know the VIN or whether a car is still covered under manufacturer warranty. I guess there is a sucker born every day.
A tough crowd ( sarcasm or honest feedback) it's both I get it. As for a sucker burn every day that is basically a insult to me and says I'm trying to screw someone. I was upfront private message me for details or maybe you missed that. Stop being a jackass and just move on obviously the car isn't for you. All your doing is putting a bad representation of TMC buyers. I drive this car daily and enjoy every minute. Crap I might just keep it and update you weekly on how it's doing just to prove a point that not every crashed car is driven by a sucker.
If crashed cars are for suckers, then I'm a double sucker. I've got two.
They may not be for everyone, but they are great cars if you know what you are doing and are willing to do some work yourself.
Totally understand that some people enjoy rebuilding salvage cars and I have rebuilt a few junkers in my day. I'm not suggesting that there is anything wrong with selling a salvage/rebuilt with upfront and complete disclosure.
But anybody who puts up for sale, on a forum of car enthusiasts, a rebuilt title car without disclosing that it likely no longer has a manufacturer's warranty - and then refuses to answer a politely posed question about the warranty status - and then refuses to provide a VIN - and then suggests that he obtained some inside help from the Tesla community in exchange for being "discrete" - and then gets irritated when questions are raised ....
...then that person is the type of seller that deserves to be called out on a forum. If you don't like it, then quit dodging the questions asked.
Not providing a VIN immediately makes it seem like a person is trying to hide something.
I’m not trying to defend the seller but it seems almost everyone selling a car on this site thinks their VIN is a secret to be gaurded with their life
Is this the car from your early post. Any frame damage repaired.
Check out thread looking to buy salvaged Teslas seller posted pictures of car (post #6). Was a crash, pretty severe in my opinion. Watch out
That is actually not that bad. The left side frame rail appears intact (the right was probably bent and had to be replaced).
If the person repairing it can get access to parts (i.e. the hardest part in any Tesla repair), a rebuild like this is more like "legos for adults". It's all just knowing where the parts go together and doing the work.
Cars that I would shy away from are:
1) flood damage (you never know the state of the electronics after that)
2) side impact (any damage to A, B, or C pillars is particularly difficult to repair)
3) rear quarterpanel damage (PITA to repair)
For the right price, I would not shy away from this car.
Yes it is, if any one interested pm me and I can send in process photos and caroliner printouts from the frame machine. Your correct the front rails do actually bolt in with 4 bolts and about 4 rivots and structural adhesive. The strut towers are the tough part they most be welded with a pulse welder.
This is the right point. With full disclosure and an appropriate discount, salvage/rebuild can be fair buys.
Without full disclosure, they are very risky. And, of course, what’s an appropriate discount for a repaired car without a warranty, particularly a Tesla that is perhaps not as wrench-monkey friendly, in some respects, as an ICE? I’d put it at about 50% of FMV but that’s just me.
Historically, it's about 2/3 of used/resale value of a car with no wreck history and no problems. You may / may not agree with that, but historically that is what Tesla's have sold for with rebuilt titles.
Variables that affect this percentage:
1) Car has / has not been re-certified with Tesla (single biggest thing to increase value)
2) Car still has supercharging enabled
3) Car app still works
I've only ever seen a salvage / rebuilt Model S go for 50% of FMV when the the repair was shoddy and there was obvious work to be done. Below 50% FMV someone can just part out the car and make a LOT more money than dealing with low-ball offers.
With the OP having #2 and #3, I would say it is a pretty valuable car (let's face it, no one ever gets #1 done). Any prospective buyer should see the car in person, of course, and "kick the tires", but that is just common sense with any car.
I have no reason to doubt the 2/3 assessment - but I do stand by the "risky" assessment.
And, to be clear, my comments above shouldn't be interpreted as "buyers should run from rebuilt." Rather, it was that buyers should run from sellers of rebuilts who don't disclose the real, practical issues up front - prospect of no warranty; prospect of difficulty finding an insurer; prospect of manufacturer refusing to do work on the car.
A seller who discloses it all upfront and includes a history of the rebuild (as OP appears to be doing now) and sells for 2/3 (or less) of FMV of a non-rebuild is totally legitimate in my book and providing a service to educated buyers who are willing to wade into the risk pool.
Which insurers will not cover a rebuilt car? I've never had this problem. GEICO is aware of the rebuilt status of both of my cars, and covers them fully (collision plus comprehensive) and does not impose any surcharge because of the title status. The only requirement was that the DMV deem both cars "road worthy".
Rest of your points, I agree on.
I work closely with about 90 percent of the insurance companies out there and have yet to run in to a insurance company that's not offering coverage ,now some have stengent rules on payout if it's totaled again. I use progressive witch is tough on payouts if it's a total. Safco, liberty mutual, Ussa, State Farm I would recommend. If I keep the car being a veteran of the military I'll chose ussa.
I'm not an expert on insuring rebuilts so I defer to those who are. I'll note, however, that the internet is replete with articles about the difficulty of finding insurers to cover rebuilts and noting that those who will cover often limit coverage to liability (and not cover the damage to your own car).
But, out of all the issues that may arise with rebuilts, I suspect insurance is the easiest to resolve - just shop around until you find the correct coverage.