I have 2017 MX with MCU2. No sound from infotainment so I did a soft reboot, but it never came back. Tried rebooting multiple times (up to 3 minutes of holding the buttons) but still have black screen. I can drive and it appears to charge when plugged in, but I cannot connect to car through app so I cannot confirm. The heat is on and won’t turn off! Car heats all night. Requested service but they scheduled me for two weeks out. I am considering a hard reboot by disconnecting 12v battery, but am concerned because instructions state you should power off car before doing hard reboot and I can’t do it since screen is dead. Looking for guidance on what to do? Thanks!
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
2017 MX has Black screen reboots not working!
- Thread starter Storm13
- Start date
-
- Tags
- black screen hard reset
scottf200
Well-Known Member
Well if you can't restart it from the steering wheel and you don't have access to the 'shut down' service screen then I'm not sure what Tesla techs would do besides the 12v disconnect. Perhaps they have some other way.
Do whatever you feel best but if the it was me then I would disconnect the 12v and first responder loop.
(Below From my instructions on when I replaced my 12v battery --- 1, 2, wait five minutes, then 5, & 6).
FYI, when I had my cameras replaced one of them was not recognized properly and the tech disconnected the 12v in a way I didn't know about.
Behind the area where the First Responder loop is there is a -12v nut/bolt. He used a socket that was on a swivel to disconnect it.
Note when working on a 12v and powering down I think it is recommended to have the drivers window rolled down so you can open the door. Not sure if your X doesn't start back up tho if you could get back in to roll it up. I'm thinking about this in case it needs to be flat bedded as you'd have to cover the window with plastic.
Below picture seems to point out that -12v location. Source:
Do whatever you feel best but if the it was me then I would disconnect the 12v and first responder loop.
(Below From my instructions on when I replaced my 12v battery --- 1, 2, wait five minutes, then 5, & 6).
FYI, when I had my cameras replaced one of them was not recognized properly and the tech disconnected the 12v in a way I didn't know about.
Behind the area where the First Responder loop is there is a -12v nut/bolt. He used a socket that was on a swivel to disconnect it.
Note when working on a 12v and powering down I think it is recommended to have the drivers window rolled down so you can open the door. Not sure if your X doesn't start back up tho if you could get back in to roll it up. I'm thinking about this in case it needs to be flat bedded as you'd have to cover the window with plastic.
Below picture seems to point out that -12v location. Source:
brainhouston
Active Member
No harm, just pull the 12v
U might have to pull fireman's loop too if nothing shuts down after 12v pull
Depending on the state of the car it might be supplying 12v from HV
U might have to pull fireman's loop too if nothing shuts down after 12v pull
Depending on the state of the car it might be supplying 12v from HV
Thanks for the responses! I will give it a try. I was concerned about disconnecting the 12v without being able to power off the car. But I guess it will be the same as if the 12v died. Saw some you tube videos on how to do it, but some disconnected the HV batter before doing so. Does anyone know if disconnecting the HV should be done as well?
scottf200
Well-Known Member
I would disconnect the 12v and first responder loop.
(Above From my instructions on when I replaced my 12v battery --- steps 1, 2, wait five minutes, then 5, & 6).
Last edited:
So disconnected battery and first responders loop, and let it sit for 5 minutes then reconnected. Good thing is is turned off climate and seemed to desert settings. Bad news is screen is still blank and cannot connect through app so I cannot check charge state or change settings. Also service center moved me out to a month away for my appointment!!! Does anyone know what it will charge to if settings were reset? 80%?
henderrj
Active Member
A few years ago, with MCU 1, it would charge to whatever your last setting was. I have no idea what it does with
MCU 2 but would expect similar behavior, since that's what it does when the screen is working.
If full operation of the car becomes critical to you, you might try calling roadside assistance. They might be able to extradite the service.
scottf200
Well-Known Member
Very sorry for your troubles and no doubt it is frustrating.
So both or your screens are blank then? Would make sense on a MCU2 since the drivers display is then a 2nd monitor.
Have you tried the two finger reboot again since the 12v reboot?
Since it worked until you rebooted (openning post) it is unlikely (to me) that your monitors died at that time. I would more guess an emmc failure Wiki - Consolidated eMMC Thread (MCU repair) (Black Center Screen)
Good tip on roadside assistance. They may be able to see if they can communicate with your car.
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
Can't hurt to let it sit overnight disconnected. Someone will let me know if I'm wrong.
Also curious what might result from disconnecting the fireman loop and battery positive terminal and grounding out the battery cable. Maybe draining residual charge in capacitors?
Also curious what might result from disconnecting the fireman loop and battery positive terminal and grounding out the battery cable. Maybe draining residual charge in capacitors?
Thanks again all, called roadside, they advised me to take it in. Dropped it at Service Center today, it will be a week before they can look at it. Will post updates as I get them.
this appears to have happened to me tonight. same thing.. 2 thumb reset was doing nothing, ended up executing your steps 1, 2, waited 15 minutes, steps 5 and 6. The hvac shut off during this process, but still can't get the screen back. Now it's stuck in my driveway, about 4 feet too far for my charger plug to reach. I was at 17% when this whole fiasco started. I wouldn't be surprised if the battery is dead or close to dead. Calling roadside in the morning.
scottf200
Well-Known Member
Do you have the mobile charger that has a 120v plug adapter on it? I would have put that on it. I realize it is only 2-3 miles per hour but enough to potentially get you 4 feet in a short charging time. Plus if you get enough charger then the HV battery would charger the 12v battery (dc-dc). -- good tip on the 12v charger if you have one too.
2018 MX 100D - This happened to me today. I hadn't driven it since a software update 7 days ago. Luckily the car was unlocked in the garage. However the key fob works great, opening the hood and trunk. My monitor shows 12v battery level at 14.4v. Lights work. Doesn't go into drive, maybe because I have PIN to Drive, but also can't talk to the car via the app. ScanMyTesla reads the battery state and everything else, so something is "awake". I tried the two finger reboot before and after removing the fireman's loop and 12v battery for 15 minutes. I logged a service call via the App, and originally appeared to be for mobile service which was great, however when I went to add the above additional information it almost looks like it was set for a service center. More that 2 hours have past, so they missed that timeline (said someone would review within 2 hours). Hopefully I can get it serviced before next week as I am flying out for 4 months.
This happened to my MX too today. 2020 long range plus. Both screens are off. Tried all the resetting methods without luck. What's more awkward is that it's on a public charger in a parking garage. I can't even unlock the charging port. The app seems to be still communicating to the car as I can see the charge percentage slowly going up. But other controls such as vent, AC, honk no longer work. Wondering how everybody eventually got yours fixed. Will a mobile service be able to fix it? The car is at level 3 below ground in a very packed garage. So, there's probably no way to get it towed out...
Mine was towed by Tesla Roadside assistance to the service center. They may not get to it until Wednesday. Mine seems a little different than yours. I could tell the car was powering on when I pressed on the brake, but I have PIN to drive, so no way of entering the PIN. Mine was not communicating with the APP or Tesla. I could lock, unlock, roll the windows up and down, and plug and unplug the charging cable. My charge limit was set to 80%, and I charged it to that before having it towed. I was monitoring it with ScanMyTesla. All the lights worked. I tried disconnecting the 12v for 15 minutes. That might help you. I was able to use the keyfob to open the Frunk.
From the APP you should be able to unlock the charge port to remove the cable if it is communicating. Keep everyone updated and I will as well.
From the APP you should be able to unlock the charge port to remove the cable if it is communicating. Keep everyone updated and I will as well.
Here's an update on mine. Not too happy. This is going to cost me $2,276.50 out of pocket. That's $1,800 parts, plus labor plus tax. I have the Tesla Extended warranty purchased when the car was new in 2018. However when the MCU1 to MCU2 upgrade was offered, I upgraded. Here's Tesla's explanation
"
unfortunately since the
failed component was part of the
Infotainment Upgrade and not an
original factory component, this does
not fall under the Extended Service
Agreement. Parts that are replaced at
customer cost have a 1 year warranty,
except the Media Control unit which
has a 2 year warranty. Based on
time this coverage is expired and
replacements would be at cost."
I know most of you have newer vehicles whose MCU2 is dying, and those will be covered under warranty, but this is a warning for those with older vehicles. I think it is pretty lame that they won't cover the MCU2, when the car was not drivable and the MCU1 was too slow for most things. If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it.
"
unfortunately since the
failed component was part of the
Infotainment Upgrade and not an
original factory component, this does
not fall under the Extended Service
Agreement. Parts that are replaced at
customer cost have a 1 year warranty,
except the Media Control unit which
has a 2 year warranty. Based on
time this coverage is expired and
replacements would be at cost."
I know most of you have newer vehicles whose MCU2 is dying, and those will be covered under warranty, but this is a warning for those with older vehicles. I think it is pretty lame that they won't cover the MCU2, when the car was not drivable and the MCU1 was too slow for most things. If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it.
Sorry to hear of your experience. At XCare, we cover any Tesla installed equipment for the duration of your membership with us, regardless of whether it was an upgrade or repair/replacement. Truly sad to hear this, and hope you get resolution. Brent @ XCare
I had already planned on getting XCARE when my extended runs out, but may be checking to see if I can get it now just to cover things Tesla won't.
