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2018 Model 3 bricks in the turn lane

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Happened yesterday with my model 3 (2018, dual motor performance AWD, 12,300 miles, v11.0 (2022.12.1)). I was driving home from the grocery store (40 minute RT), and as I was turning into the middle turn lane to drive into my neighborhood (in Fort Lauderdale, off A1A), I hear a large clunking noise & feel a shudder like someone hit the bottom of the car with a baseball bat. I thought I’d been hit from behind but there was no one there. The car rolls another 15-20 feet on momentum and stops. The dashboard screen shows the car icon going into ‘park’ and the following two messages appear: "Electrical system is unable to support all features Shutting down features to conserve energy", and toggles back & forth with the message "Vehicle may not restart Service is required" (3:54pm) The car will not restart. I initiated contact with Roadside Assistance on my phone. The agent asked me to do a 2 minute power cycle (agent includes link with directions), which I completed but nothing changed. The car was essentially bricked in the middle of the road without any warning. The only setting change I had made 10 minutes earlier was for the AC to reach the backseat to cool my dog. ETA for tow truck was 60 minutes.
As I’m waiting for the tow service and directing traffic around the car, the above messages continue to toggle back and forth. I noticed there’s a definite slow down and drag in the power windows, which remain barely operable. When the turn signal was activated, I noticed that even though it appeared on on the dashboard screen, there was no signal appearing in the taillights when I stood behind the car to direct turning cars around me. Of course I was unable to check the brake lights since by then my passenger had walked home with the dog and I was alone. At 4:13pm I see a new message in red on the dashboard: "PULL OVER SAFELY Vehicle shutting down" [LOL] and below that "Vehicle may not restart Service is required", which toggles with the message "Schedule service to replace low voltage battery Software will not update until battery is replaced". (12V battery issue?) Those messages continue to display on the screen until it completely shuts down and screen goes black shortly before the tow truck arrives.
There was no message or warning prior to this event. The car is normally charged at home and I only use Superchargers on long trips (rarely). It was fortunate that it happened on Easter Sunday in the afternoon when there wasn’t heavy traffic on A1A, but it was even more fortunate that it didn’t happen in the middle lane of I95 headed to Miami going 75mph. I would have been toast. I bought the car new in 2018 and I know how it starts. The car wouldn’t start. Although it has full self driving capability, I only use that on highways.
A possible clue to a problem is the outdoor temperature sensor was reading 95°. I believe the warmest it ever got yesterday in Fort Lauderdale was 82°.
IMO Tesla engineers need to develop some emergency workarounds when there’s a possible cataclysmic event, like a faulty rear drive unit, which I suspect this might be.
Still waiting to hear back from the SC after the initial message that it’s ‘In Service’.
 

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With that clunk, this definitely sounds like a cataclysmic event! I'm sorry to hear that you were stranded there -- please do keep us in the loop as to what the diagnosis is and what might have caused it.
Thanks, I’ll update when I have more information from the SC. Their update was they’d get back to me by 6pm, April 20th. I have a second car so I’ll wait for their response and post again then.
 
Thanks, I’ll update when I have more information from the SC. Their update was they’d get back to me by 6pm, April 20th. I have a second car so I’ll wait for their response and post again then.
The loud clunk can be the relay disconnecting the high voltage battery. I read many similar posts related to the 12v battery. I hope is just that but let us know when you get it back.
 
If your windows were rolling down slowly, it sounds like a probably 12v system issue, potentially just a bad battery.
The loud clunk can be the relay disconnecting the high voltage battery. I read many similar posts related to the 12v battery. I hope is just that but let us know when you get it back.

This is much louder than people think it is. But we're all just guessing at this point +1 for hoping it's whatever is quickest/easiest.
 
Sucks that it happened and I'll be curious as to the diagnosis, but expecting "Tesla engineers need to develop some emergency workarounds when there’s a possible cataclysmic event" (p.s. they do, those were the messages you were seeing) is interesting when you can have the same type of problem in ANY car.

Tire blowout, thrown rod, busted motor mount (I had this one in a Chevy) etc...
 
Sucks that it happened and I'll be curious as to the diagnosis, but expecting "Tesla engineers need to develop some emergency workarounds when there’s a possible cataclysmic event" (p.s. they do, those were the messages you were seeing) is interesting when you can have the same type of problem in ANY car.

Tire blowout, thrown rod, busted motor mount (I had this one in a Chevy) etc...
I totally get what you’re saying, but a "pull over safely" message is meaningless if the car won’t budge. My point was your options seem pretty bleak if the car bricks. I’ve never had an ICE car freeze up like that (a busted motor mount may also limit your options, I suspect…). The one time I blew a tire on the highway I was still able to drive that car off the road.
Honestly, I posted here because I just wanted to share my experience. If other owners have similar experiences, Tesla will eventually have to address whatever caused the issue. I hope whatever it was, that it was a freak, one-in-million event, and no one else has to deal with it. Hopefully I’ll have more information from the SC this week, and I’ll share that as well.
 
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The 12v battery is not the culprit, but a victim of the failure. The 12v battery died later because the loud clunk was the pyro fuse blowing. That means that the high voltage battery disconnected due to some fault with a high voltage component. That also means that the HV battery stopped maintaining the 12v battery, which as it drained caused the power window sluggishness and alert to replace it.

The 12v battery won't fail while the car is driving because the car is actively charging it when it's awake. You could even disconnect the 12v battery while the car is driving and would be able to continue just fine (with alerts popping up).
 
The 12v battery is not the culprit, but a victim of the failure. The 12v battery died later because the loud clunk was the pyro fuse blowing. That means that the high voltage battery disconnected due to some fault with a high voltage component. That also means that the HV battery stopped maintaining the 12v battery, which as it drained caused the power window sluggishness and alert to replace it.

The 12v battery won't fail while the car is driving because the car is actively charging it when it's awake. You could even disconnect the 12v battery while the car is driving and would be able to continue just fine (with alerts popping up).
This makes more sense.
 
The 12v battery is not the culprit, but a victim of the failure. The 12v battery died later because the loud clunk was the pyro fuse blowing. That means that the high voltage battery disconnected due to some fault with a high voltage component. That also means that the HV battery stopped maintaining the 12v battery, which as it drained caused the power window sluggishness and alert to replace it.

The 12v battery won't fail while the car is driving because the car is actively charging it when it's awake. You could even disconnect the 12v battery while the car is driving and would be able to continue just fine (with alerts popping up).
makes sense, thanks for the follow up.

Also on the pyro fuse popping, the explosive charge on them is pretty loud and that's why it sounded like something big broke.
 
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I totally get what you’re saying, but a "pull over safely" message is meaningless if the car won’t budge. My point was your options seem pretty bleak if the car bricks. I’ve never had an ICE car freeze up like that (a busted motor mount may also limit your options, I suspect…). The one time I blew a tire on the highway I was still able to drive that car off the road.
Honestly, I posted here because I just wanted to share my experience. If other owners have similar experiences, Tesla will eventually have to address whatever caused the issue. I hope whatever it was, that it was a freak, one-in-million event, and no one else has to deal with it. Hopefully I’ll have more information from the SC this week, and I’ll share that as well.
The car didn't "brick." That term refers to an EV battery that has been discharged to zero and will not recharge.

If you've never had an ICE throw a rod, break a motor mount or had a blowout count yourself lucky. There are a hundred other things that break in an ICE that also cause this "cataclysmic" (you may want to check the definition) event.

P.S. you do realize 15-20' (the amount you said the car rolled) is about 1 car length? That must've been quite the deceleration since that is emergency braking distance at 20mph (not including your time to react). Not quite "rolling."