2018 Model X 75D with 84k miles getting only 125 miles per full charge.

[MrVasireddi]

Hello all anyone else having this issue?

When the car was new I used to get 220 on a full charge 170 real life driving. Now it’s down to 202 on full charge. I drive about 100 miles a day. Same commute daily. My Kw/mi is under 350 and 90% on autopilot under 50mph due to traffic. But end of the trip that 202 becomes 114 miles real life total. Major loss of miles. I used to get 170 in real life diving when it was fully charged and have 70 remaining at end of day. But now it’s 13-14 miles remaining.

 

[DCGOO]

Hello all anyone else having this issue?

When the car was new I used to get 220 on a full charge 170 real life driving. Now it’s down to 202 on full charge. I drive about 100 miles a day. Same commute daily. My Kw/mi is under 350 and 90% on autopilot under 50mph due to traffic. But end of the trip that 202 becomes 114 miles real life total. Major loss of miles. I used to get 170 in real life diving when it was fully charged and have 70 remaining at end of day. But now it’s 13-14 miles remaining.

The loss you are seeing after 3+ years seems about right. It is similar to my 2018 anyway, only difference is mine is a 100D. So I started out with 295 rated, and now get about 270 rated, with 41,250 miles on the clock. I really don't monitor range very much (tank gauge is set to % energy), but you may have to change your driving habits, charge at the far end, or (i am afraid) replace the vehicle with a longer range unit. 350 wh/mile seems high to me at 50 mph, assuming 20 inch wheels. At 50, I am usually well under 300 (in the summer anyway). I do not see 350, unless I am running at 80 mph.

 

[jboy210]

The loss you are seeing after 3+ years seems about right. It is similar to my 2018 anyway, only difference is mine is a 100D. So I started out with 295 rated, and now get about 270 rated, with 41,250 miles on the clock. I really don't monitor range very much (tank gauge is set to % energy), but you may have to change your driving habits, charge at the far end, or (i am afraid) replace the vehicle with a longer range unit. 350 wh/mile seems high to me at 50 mph, assuming 20 inch wheels. At 50, I am usually well under 300 (in the summer anyway). I do not see 350, unless I am running at 80 mph.

I also only every use percentage. It is a more accurate calculation than range.

 

[DCGOO]

The loss you are seeing after 3+ years seems about right. It is similar to my 2018 anyway, only difference is mine is a 100D. So I started out with 295 rated, and now get about 270 rated, with 41,250 miles on the clock. I really don't monitor range very much (tank gauge is set to % energy), but you may have to change your driving habits, charge at the far end, or (i am afraid) replace the vehicle with a longer range unit. 350 wh/mile seems high to me at 50 mph, assuming 20 inch wheels. At 50, I am usually well under 300 (in the summer anyway). I do not see 350, unless I am running at 80 mph.

Another factor affecting high energy usage, could be your tires. I running on the OEM Continentals, which are low rolling resistance. If you changed to something else, they might consume more.

 

[Harvey Danger]

Those numbers don't add up, not if your trip meter is under 350. Screenshots (photos of dashboard trip meter numbers) might help diagnose this. Also is there any possibility of increased vampire drain while parked between segments of your trips?

 

[MrTomP]

Just curious, how did you get "real life miles"? I used % also and randomly charge to 100% just to see my range and change my display to show mileage. It shows for 16 75D that I get about 210. Is that real life miles?

 

[Harvey Danger]

No the number next to the battery icon in the instrument cluster is called 'Rated miles'. This is a friendly number intended to convey information about the *electrical* capacity of the pack.

Real miles is odometer miles. Actual distance traveled. This is just counting revolutions of the wheels.

If you want to predict your real-life miles you multiply your current store of Rated-miles by your expected consumption rate (which is not known yet- this is really the thing you are predicting).

Technically consumption rates are shown in units of Watt-hours per mile. But you may find it easier to think in terms of 'percent efficiency'. If you drive 80 real-miles but the battery icon indicates a depletion of 100 rated-miles during the trip, your efficiency was 80%. Note your 'efficiency' computed in this way will almost always be below 100 - the Rated miles display is always very optimistic.

Don't obsess over these numbers for short trips or with many overnight periods of inactivity, they won't add up perfectly if youre just going by reported numbers in the dashboard. But for lengthy continuous driving they're pretty useful.

 

[MrTomP]

Thanks, I'm currently debating if the cost to upgrade to a 100d or to a newer raven model is worth it or not as the range is my biggest heartburn with my 16 75D X

 

[gangzoom]

The loss you are seeing after 3+ years seems about right.

That isn't right at all for a 75D, 45k miles and am seeing 210+ miles in real life driving in good weather. I'm in England so our driving speeds are much slower due to traffic.

 

[DCGOO]

That isn't right at all for a 75D, 45k miles and am seeing 210+ miles in real life driving in good weather. I'm in England so our driving speeds are much slower due to traffic.

Problem is the OP's energy use is much higher than yours. He said he was consuming 350 Wh/mile af 50 Mph. Your's, like mine, is well under 300 at that speed.

 

[Harvey Danger]

The thread is about range loss. No one can tell if that's due to increased consumption rate or decreased battery pack capacity The various numbers reported in the OP aren't consistent, we need hard data not vague recollections.

Hard to say what might cause increased consumption. Normal causes are new tires or colder weather. If either of those apply you can stop searching for other mysterious causes.

To find out if it's pack degradation just take a picture of rated miles of range you see next to the battery icon after a 100% full charge and compare this number to the advertised range when new.

 

[fbitz777]

Hello all anyone else having this issue?

When the car was new I used to get 220 on a full charge 170 real life driving. Now it’s down to 202 on full charge. I drive about 100 miles a day. Same commute daily. My Kw/mi is under 350 and 90% on autopilot under 50mph due to traffic. But end of the trip that 202 becomes 114 miles real life total. Major loss of miles. I used to get 170 in real life diving when it was fully charged and have 70 remaining at end of day. But now it’s 13-14 miles remaining.

Hey I am in same situation (I have '17 with 61k miles and 100% is 205 miles)

See attached how BAD (100 to 0 percent) it is for me now. driving at 353wh/mi I get only 130 miles...getting only 46KWH out of freaking battery (I had just put in about 70KWH based on my meter)

POSSIBILITY?: This happened After I upgraded MCU1->MCU2 and started using DAHSCAM. I'd day I was getting 170 miles before the upgrade.

 

[Harvey Danger]

Picture doesn't show battery icon in its ending state nor is there a separate picture, taken earlier, showing its beginning state after the most recent charge. How do we know the the full pack was completely exhausted (ie reducing its state-of-charge from 100% to 0%) in producing these numbers?

Anyway you may be using your car differently from whoever started this thread. The OP seemed to be implying the use case scenario is a lot of long drives, ie deep discharge cycles over very few calendar days.

If you are talking about decreased energy retention over many calendar days, increased vampire drain could be a cause. Specifically new features like Sentry mode have been implicated in suddenly increased vampire drain. So you may be on to something with the 'dash cam' idea..

If you are getting 205 miles of rated-range on a 100% full charge then your pack holds 65 kWh energy. If truly draining it from 100 to 0 only gets you 46kWh of output in the Trip Meter then that's ~20kWh of vampire loss. Normal vampire loss might be .6 kWh a day (1%/day). If yours is way higher, say 2kWh a day, you could conceivably get these results in just ten days sitting idle. So yeah look into why it's not getting a deep sleep.

 

[fbitz777]

Picture doesn't show battery icon in its ending state nor is there a separate picture, taken earlier, showing its beginning state after the most recent charge. How do we know the the full pack was completely exhausted (ie reducing its state-of-charge from 100% to 0%) in producing these numbers?

Anyway you may be using your car differently from whoever started this thread. The OP seemed to be implying the use case scenario is a lot of long drives, ie deep discharge cycles over very few calendar days.

If you are talking about decreased energy retention over many calendar days, increased vampire drain could be a cause. Specifically new features like Sentr have been implicated in suddenly increased vampire drain. So you may be on to something with the 'dash cam' idea..

If you are getting 205 miles of rated-range on a 100% full charge then your pack holds 65 kWh energy. If truly draining it from 100 to 0 only gets you 46kWh of output in the Trip Meter then that's ~20kWh of vampire loss. Normal vampire loss might be .6 kWh a day (1%/day). If yours is way higher, say 2kWh a day, you could conceivably get these results in just ten days sitting idle. So yeah look into why it's not getting a deep sleep.

The trip started at 100% *(205 miles rated) and ended at zero as specified in post and it was over 2 days. Also weather was ideal (75F) and I drive in CHILL mode and it is in RANGE mode.
And yes I suspect Sentry and Dashcam but it is quite a lot to loose! As well as the Stat App I use does not see vampire drain higher than 2Kwh a day.

Will take Dashcam and Sentry out.