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2020.12.5 New Launch Mode and 2017 P100DL Slower Now!

bigboost

Member
Oct 2, 2018
168
99
Sarasota, FL
New testing results are in, comparing Ludicrous Plus with and without Preheating as well Ludicrous (without launch mode). Spoiler Alert: Preheating the battery may not necessarily provide a performance advantage.

The first run is in Ludicrous Plus mode but without preheating the battery to the 50-degree setpoint.


For run 2, we waited for the battery to reach the 50-degree setpoint in Ludicrous Plus mode.


As I've mentioned before, 0-60 MPH times are not very indicative of power due to traction limitations, but trap speed is. Check out the 1/8th mile trap speed in the first video vs. the 2nd. That;s roughly a 6 MPH drop with the battery SOC only a couple of percent lower! That's a colossal difference in the 660' and will be even more pronounced in the 1/4 mile. Clearly, the software was limiting power with this setup probably because the cooling system is incapable of maintaining the battery at 50C on a warm day without overheating the motors. The question then was whether the car would recover if taken out of Ludicruous Plus mode. That's the run below:


Indeed, the trap speed had increased by 5 MPH over the previous run; the remaining 1 MPH deficit between runs 1 and 3 could be attributed to the battery charge difference or perhaps, due to the stress imposed by the preheating routine itself. Either way, I believe this addresses the questions that plagued me after my last drag-strip runs where the car was 5-7 MPH slower than its historical baseline. Based on these findings, these would be my recommendations for consistent drag strip performance on the P100D:

  1. SOC matters, so arrive at the track with as much charge as possible.
  2. Do NOT preheat the battery (not even when you're charging the car). Only exception to this would be if the ambient temperatures were very low, in the sixties, for instance, where risk of overheating the motors and running into software torque management is smaller.
  3. Use Ludicrous Plus right before you stage so you minimize time spent with the car trying to preheat the battery. LP mode is only needed to enable Launch Mode which is necessary for the best 60-ft times.
  4. Disengage Ludicrous Plus immediately after the pass. In fact, I'd recommend Chill Mode and Range Mode just to absolutely minimize charge loss between runs.
Hope that helps.

FANTASTIC info! Thanks for testing!
 

bigboost

Member
Oct 2, 2018
168
99
Sarasota, FL
New testing results are in, comparing Ludicrous Plus with and without Preheating as well Ludicrous (without launch mode). Spoiler Alert: Preheating the battery may not necessarily provide a performance advantage.

The first run is in Ludicrous Plus mode but without preheating the battery to the 50-degree setpoint.


For run 2, we waited for the battery to reach the 50-degree setpoint in Ludicrous Plus mode.


As I've mentioned before, 0-60 MPH times are not very indicative of power due to traction limitations, but trap speed is. Check out the 1/8th mile trap speed in the first video vs. the 2nd. That;s roughly a 6 MPH drop with the battery SOC only a couple of percent lower! That's a colossal difference in the 660' and will be even more pronounced in the 1/4 mile. Clearly, the software was limiting power with this setup probably because the cooling system is incapable of maintaining the battery at 50C on a warm day without overheating the motors. The question then was whether the car would recover if taken out of Ludicruous Plus mode. That's the run below:


Indeed, the trap speed had increased by 5 MPH over the previous run; the remaining 1 MPH deficit between runs 1 and 3 could be attributed to the battery charge difference or perhaps, due to the stress imposed by the preheating routine itself. Either way, I believe this addresses the questions that plagued me after my last drag-strip runs where the car was 5-7 MPH slower than its historical baseline. Based on these findings, these would be my recommendations for consistent drag strip performance on the P100D:

  1. SOC matters, so arrive at the track with as much charge as possible.
  2. Do NOT preheat the battery (not even when you're charging the car). Only exception to this would be if the ambient temperatures were very low, in the sixties, for instance, where risk of overheating the motors and running into software torque management is smaller.
  3. Use Ludicrous Plus right before you stage so you minimize time spent with the car trying to preheat the battery. LP mode is only needed to enable Launch Mode which is necessary for the best 60-ft times.
  4. Disengage Ludicrous Plus immediately after the pass. In fact, I'd recommend Chill Mode and Range Mode just to absolutely minimize charge loss between runs.
Hope that helps.

Do you think the car is as fast now (using LP just to enable launch mode) as it was using LP and launch mode prior to 2020.12.5 software update?
 

bigboost

Member
Oct 2, 2018
168
99
Sarasota, FL
Also, I have lowering links in mine, so always keep the car in standard mode because “Low” will tuck the tires inside the wheel well some (it’s very low). I’m still able to engage launch mode being at the Standard setting, but I’m wondering if I’m missing something by not launching in the Low setting?
 

rajram

Member
Nov 11, 2017
26
62
Colorado Springs
Do you think the car is as fast now (using LP just to enable launch mode) as it was using LP and launch mode prior to 2020.12.5 software update?

Excellent question, but I cannot answer that categorically...yet. My last runs were on a bumpy road with a passenger in the car, so it is possible that LP without any preheat is essentially as fast as original LP with preheat. I should be able to quantitatively answer this when I visit the track again on July 25th.

Also, I have lowering links in mine, so always keep the car in standard mode because “Low” will tuck the tires inside the wheel well some (it’s very low). I’m still able to engage launch mode being at the Standard setting, but I’m wondering if I’m missing something by not launching in the Low setting?

In general, the lower the suspension setting, the better the launch, so it will be worth trying the low setting. These cars do not rely on weight transfer like most ICE cars do.
 
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Reactions: bigboost
Jan 1, 2015
247
76
Norge
Tesla didn't like my post about P100DL performance loss...
They suddenly says it's because my car is lowerd 1"
Can't go past 120mph because it's dropped 1" at a service cent, so I don't need to replace drive shafts every month.
I'm getting tired of this *sugar*...
 
  • Like
Reactions: logan

sorka

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2015
8,168
5,941
Merced, CA
Tesla didn't like my post about P100DL performance loss...
They suddenly says it's because my car is lowerd 1"
Can't go past 120mph because it's dropped 1" at a service cent, so I don't need to replace drive shafts every month.
I'm getting tired of this *sugar*...

That makes no sense. The car doesn't know it's lowered and lowering only increases the efficiency not only from a drag standpoint but axle joint angles are straighter so there's also less drive train loss.

My P85DL is lowered 1", to prevent my 4th set of cv axles from being destroy, and my performance was effected one little bit yet I've now gone 35K miles on the current set of axles without the dreaded shudder returning.

This is also counter to their claim to me that a software update is coming that will not allow maximum power unless you're in the lowest setting and your steering angle is nearly straight.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kristoffer Helle
Jan 1, 2015
247
76
Norge
I know why they wanted me to change wheels and suspension..
Picked up the car. They bendt the rear wheel badly.
I can actually see the tire in the mirror. Car shakes as hell.
It's so bad that the dashcam is shaking.
I wouldn't care about small marks... But they made the car dangerous to drive.. Won't answer email or in app.
Got a " BMS w163 contactor WOT" error couple of hours ago.
Hope this means I get a new battery, and finally get a fast car again!
 
  • Informative
Reactions: logan

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