2020 Model S with BMW wheels including range impact

[xxaarraa]

Thought I'd share for anyone looking to upgrade to better looking and performing non-Tesla 19" wheels.

2020 Model S Performance. Here was my original setup: First photo below is a drive from Dallas to Austin yesterday with that wheel setup.

1. 19" aero wheels.
2. 8.5 inch wide, 245x45x19 square setup
3. Goodyear RSA2 supposedly low rolling resistance tires. But these are pretty inexpensive tires so take Goodyear's claim for what its worth.
4. 20MM wheel adapters in rear
5. ~1 inch lowered on blox links

283 wh / mile

Here is my new setup I got yesterday in Austin. Same distance back from Austin to Dallas doing the same 72 on highway with cruise/auto-pilot.

1. 19" BMW 437M wheels. These M3/M4 forged wheels are stupid light - 23 lbs front and 24 lbs rear. Including tires, I am now 8 lbs ligher per wheel&tire in front and 2.5 lbs lighter per wheel&tire in rear for a total of 21 lbs unsprung weight reduction.
2. 9 inch front, 10 inch rear staggered setup
3. Goodyear RSA2 245x45x19 tires in front (same as previous, I had them move front tires over) and 275x40x19 Continental DWS06 Sport+ all season tires in back. Total diameter of 275x40 same as 245x45.
4. ITM TPMS sensors
5. Turner motorsports 72 to 66 hub rings in aluminum - to adapt the BMW hub to Tesla
6. No wheel adapters in front or rear as the BMW wheels have a more aggressive offset than stock aero wheels.
7. ~1 inch lowered on blox links (no change from before)

250 wh/mile.

Super happy with this setup! The 10+% efficiency gain is a bonus but just the upgrade in looks is worth it to me. If someone wants to do this and go a step further, I would recommend buying two sets of 437M front wheels and that way you will have a square 9 inch setup and you can run native Tesla spec 245x45x19 tires in front and rear. With the right EV-specific tires, this will be an incredibly efficient setup and nice upgrade over stock hubcap wheels.

I ordered custom center caps with Tesla logo though I think its funny to run BMW center caps ha. Enough talking, here are pics.

 

[Ostrichsak]

Selecting a wheel to save a few pennies in electrons without any concern of the fact that the wheel wasn't engineered for a car nearly two times heavier than the car it was engineered for is not a good idea. While you're at it, remove the brake rotors and you'll probably save a few more dimes.

 

[xxaarraa]

Selecting a wheel to save a few pennies in electrons without any concern of the fact that the wheel wasn't engineered for a car nearly two times heavier than the car it was engineered for is not a good idea. While you're at it, remove the brake rotors and you'll probably save a few more dimes.

A very unintelligent post, but thank you. If you want to drive a stock car, power to you - why are you even on an online forum? Some of us like to modify/change and that's part of the enjoyment for car enthusiasts.

I didn't select the wheel to save pennies. And a forged wheel made for a BMW M car is well made, much more so than the crappy Tesla aero wheel. Wheels aren't magic, as long as you are cognizant of PCD/offset/tire size, safety is never an issue.

Drive safe.

 

[teslick2]

Love the look! I'm surprised to see how much the lower weight has affected efficiency despite the (I'm assuming) loss of aerodynamics.

 

[drunkenbuda]

Nice wheels. Can't wait to see what it will look like with Tesla Center Caps. I like BMW stock rims, they all look so good!

 

[Ostrichsak]

A very unintelligent post, but thank you. If you want to drive a stock car, power to you - why are you even on an online forum? Some of us like to modify/change and that's part of the enjoyment for car enthusiasts.

I didn't select the wheel to save pennies. And a forged wheel made for a BMW M car is well made, much more so than the crappy Tesla aero wheel. Wheels aren't magic, as long as you are cognizant of PCD/offset/tire size, safety is never an issue.

Drive safe.

Nice personal attack from someone who doesn't even understand that wheel selection is FAR more than bolt pattern, width and offset.

Wheels are tested/rated for their use based on many safety factors, none more important than gross vehicle weight. The difference in the force involved with a 3,200lb car and a 5,000lb car are dramatic and MUST be accounted for. That or you can just plan on a catastrophic failure at some point.

To completely disregard that the wheel you mention was tested and rated for a car weighing around 50% less (as you turn this into some sort of pointless internet commando battle) would be hilarious if your ignorance wasn't endangering all of those around you. The very weight you saved is what makes the wheel strong enough to safely hold up to the physics associated with a sedan that weighs over 5,000lbs.

But hey, why listen to the voice of reason when it presents itself from someone who seemingly knows way more about wheel application and theory when you can just YOLO it up and end up like this guy:

But nah bro, you got this. That wheel has a BMW logo on it so I'm sure it will cure world hunger too so something like physics is child's play!

Good luck!

Disclaimer: based on your attitude I really couldn't care much less what happens with you and your car but I want to at least inject a little bit of information so others who read this as a good idea at least know to do their own research before trusting some stranger on an internet forum who doesn't even know wheels are rated for safety.

 

[yamanote]

Thanks OP for sharing this - I've thought about doing this swap in the past as a relatively inexpensive way of getting forged 19s for my winter setup. Wonder how big of a spacer I'd need for a refresh car.

Nice personal attack from someone who doesn't even understand that wheel selection is FAR more than bolt pattern, width and offset.

Wheels are tested/rated for their use based on many safety factors, none more important than gross vehicle weight. The difference in the force involved with a 3,200lb car and a 5,000lb car are dramatic and MUST be accounted for. That or you can just plan on a catastrophic failure at some point.

To completely disregard that the wheel you mention was tested and rated for a car weighing around 50% less (as you turn this into some sort of pointless internet commando battle) would be hilarious if your ignorance wasn't endangering all of those around you. The very weight you saved is what makes the wheel strong enough to safely hold up to the physics associated with a sedan that weighs over 5,000lbs.

But hey, why listen to the voice of reason when it presents itself from someone who seemingly knows way more about wheel application and theory when you can just YOLO it up and end up like this guy:


But nah bro, you got this. That wheel has a BMW logo on it so I'm sure it will cure world hunger too so something like physics is child's play!

Good luck!

Disclaimer: based on your attitude I really couldn't care much less what happens with you and your car but I want to at least inject a little bit of information so others who read this as a good idea at least know to do their own research before trusting some stranger on an internet forum who doesn't even know wheels are rated for safety.

Even ignoring the fact that an M4 cabriolet weighs over 4,100lbs, since when does 50% of 5,000lbs equal to 3,200lbs? The heavier the wheel, the stronger it is? We should all be running Chinese rep wheels then

No F8x the 437M came stock on weighs 3,200lbs. This wheel weighs less because it is a forged wheel and not a cheap cast wheel like the OEM Tesla wheels.

I don't think you know as much about 'wheel application and theory' as you think you do lol

 

[xxaarraa]

Thanks OP for sharing this - I've thought about doing this swap in the past as a relatively inexpensive way of getting forged 19s for my winter setup. Wonder how big of a spacer I'd need for a refresh car.

Precisely. The whole catalog of BMW M wheels opens up many inexpensive options for Model S guys like us:

1. I have always liked the 437Ms, their offset is pretty close to stock Model S 19 offset (in fact, slightly better in my opinion). For the refresh cars with wider track, I would suggest 12 or 15mm spacers. I used ultimate performance 20mm spacers in the rear on stock wheels and was happy with the quality.
2. My F80 has the even nicer 763Ms (even lighter than 437Ms) though they are 19 front and 20 rear. They did offer the 763Ms as a set of 19s front and rear on F82 M2s so you can find those if you want all 19s.
3. M5 fitment 343Ms are also a great option, though they are 20s.
4. Apex aftermarket wheels with F80 fitmet would be good options as well. I almost considered using my track wheels that have slicks on them, but they are too wide for the Tesla - 10 front and 11 rear.
5. I briefly considered HRE P40s with F80 fitment but didn't look into them too hard.
6. In my search, I stuck with BMW options that were 9 inch front, though you could probably squeeze in a 9.5" front and that would also put many M6 wheels on the radar.

FYI - here are the hub rings I got (metal instead of plastic): APEX Aluminum Centering Rings for Tesla Model S, Set of 4
Here are the TPMS sensors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0768S4SXR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here is a good website which breaks down the fitment and weights for all F80 OEM wheels: OEM BMW F82 M4 wheel style, specs

 

[Ostrichsak]

Hey dumbass,

I didn't read a single thing after this. Stay classy Southlake!

Thanks OP for sharing this - I've thought about doing this swap in the past as a relatively inexpensive way of getting forged 19s for my winter setup. Wonder how big of a spacer I'd need for a refresh car.


Even ignoring the fact that an M4 cabriolet weighs over 4,100lbs, since when does 50% of 5,000lbs equal to 3,200lbs? The heavier the wheel, the stronger it is? We should all be running Chinese rep wheels then

No F8x the 437M came stock on weighs 3,200lbs. This wheel weighs less because it is a forged wheel and not a cheap cast wheel like the OEM Tesla wheels.

I don't think you know as much about 'wheel application and theory' as you think you do lol

So now we're going to argue semantics?

What's 50% of 3,200lbs? 1,600lbs.

3,200+1,600= 4,800lbs which isn't even accurate in the direction that favors your stance. I was trying to use rough numbers as it was irrelevant for purposes of this conversation but I guess you want to go down this particular rabbit hole for some unknown reason. I know, math is hard. Sorry for assuming people who figured out a way to create a post here could handle such advanced concepts.

Here, I'll try to explain in more simplistic terms: 5,000lbs is more than 3,200lbs

The fact that it's "forged" or made by god's own car manufacturer BMW does not mean that physics don't apply. There is no way that BMW engineered that wheel to meet the same standards for wheel safety of a 5,000lb car for many reasons. Namely: that would increase cost, it would increase weight and both of these would happen for no reason since it's not going on a 5,000lb car. The higher performance the car, the more the weight matters. Even forged, there is no chance they added the additional weight required to make this wheel safe on a 5,000lb car just because. That's not how automotive engineering works at any level.

This thread is exactly why Tesla states to NOT put aftermarket wheels on their cars.

 

[teslick2]

Seems like it would be easy to confirm if the wheels are within spec if they have the load ratings stamped on the back. In my limited experience, M3 stock tires normally have a load index of 94 to 99, which is 1477-1709lbs per wheel. One could assume that the German engineers would build the wheel to match the tires.

 

[yamanote]

So now we're going to argue semantics?

What's 50% of 3,200lbs? 1,600lbs.

3,200+1,600= 4,800lbs which isn't even accurate in the direction that favors your stance. I was trying to use rough numbers as it was irrelevant for purposes of this conversation but I guess you want to go down this particular rabbit hole for some unknown reason. I know, math is hard. Sorry for assuming people who figured out a way to create a post here could handle such advanced concepts.

Here, I'll try to explain in more simplistic terms: 5,000lbs is more than 3,200lbs

The fact that it's "forged" or made by god's own car manufacturer BMW does not mean that physics don't apply. There is no way that BMW engineered that wheel to meet the same standards for wheel safety of a 5,000lb car for many reasons. Namely: that would increase cost, it would increase weight and both of these would happen for no reason since it's not going on a 5,000lb car. The higher performance the car, the more the weight matters. Even forged, there is no chance they added the additional weight required to make this wheel safe on a 5,000lb car just because. That's not how automotive engineering works at any level.

This thread is exactly why Tesla states to NOT put aftermarket wheels on their cars.

Sigh. If you really wish to argue semantics, in your own words:

rated for a car weighing around 50% less

50% less than 5000 is 2500. 50% more than 3200 is 4800.

the wheel wasn't engineered for a car nearly two times heavier than the car it was engineered for

Two times 3200 is, again, not 4800.

An irrelevant argument regardless because, again, no F8x weighs 3200lbs. While I don't feel the need to use patronizing language to insult others like you did, I figure it's only fair to repeat what you said: sorry for assuming people who figured out a way to create a post here could handle such advanced concepts. Here is a helpful calculator for future reference.

If you think that a cheap heavy cast wheel just because it's 'made by god's own car manufacturer' Tesla means that it's definitively stronger, there isn't much to say here other than I hope your Turbines serve you better than they did me. I have seen (and had) more cracked/bent Turbines than I can count. Just because they are heavy does not automatically mean it is strong - that is not how metallurgy works.

You obviously came looking for attention by comparing installing these Fuchs-manufactured, VIA/JWL approved forged alloy wheels to removing his brake rotors (?) so... success? Why not go troll in one of the hundred of other threads of people installing cheap generic Chinese cast wheels instead?

Seems like it would be easy to confirm if the wheels are within spec if they have the load ratings stamped on the back. In my limited experience, M3 stock tires normally have a load index of 94 to 99, which is 1477-1709lbs per wheel. One could assume that the German engineers would build the wheel to match the tires.

T0 (Tesla-homologated) Michelin Pilot 4S have a 96Y XL rating
Star (BMW-homologated) Michelin Pilot 4S have a 96Y XL rating front and 100Y XL rating rear

Certainly not a be-all end-all but one could reasonably infer that the wheels themselves are built for a similar load rating. Or at least not explode the moment you put it on a 20% heavier car and take out every car in a 3-lane radius.

 

[Ostrichsak]

That's an awful lot of words but yet not one piece of evidence that these wheels were engineered to support a 5,000lb vehicle safely which was my original point. I wonder why that is.

Just a bunch of personal attacks when my original intent was to shed some light on something that most people don't realize until it's too late (photo evidence included above). Previously, this wasn't an issue when you've got 400hp vehicles weighing around 3,500lbs. The physics involved with a car that's nearly double those power levels (Instant. Massive difference in power delivery shock on the driveline to include the wheels) and 20% more weight.

The cornering forces are even greater considering the low center of gravity on these cars doesn't have has much body roll as your typical ICE car which means that those forces are directly focused laterally into the wheels. The very weight savings touted in this thread are necessary for strength and it's constant battle between weight and strength which is why the safety rating tests exist in the first place. Sure, you can use better wheel making technology such as forged but physics is still physics. Even a forged wheel that's engineered to be lightweight at the razors edge of meeting failure tolerances for a much lighter vehicle is grossly under-suited to safely meet the requirements of a 5,000lb car... Regardless of how much you attack me personally.

This is why I made the comment about removing your rotors to save even more weight because it's more similar of a comparison than you seem to realize. You're quite literally sacrificing safety for a couple of pounds weight savings but those weight savings are quite literally what makes the wheel strong enough to not become a safety hazard.

I didn't realize this post was a BMW stock holders meeting which is where blind defense of the beloved brand comes from when this was never about BMW's quality which seems to have triggered a few fanbois.

"When you know you're right, pound the facts. When you know you're wrong, pound the table"

I lead a horse to water but now it refuses to drink so... enjoy your wheels that fall woefully short of meeting safety engineering specifications required for a Tesla Model S!

 

[Gixx1300R]

Nice personal attack from someone who doesn't even understand that wheel selection is FAR more than bolt pattern, width and offset.

Wheels are tested/rated for their use based on many safety factors, none more important than gross vehicle weight. The difference in the force involved with a 3,200lb car and a 5,000lb car are dramatic and MUST be accounted for. That or you can just plan on a catastrophic failure at some point.

To completely disregard that the wheel you mention was tested and rated for a car weighing around 50% less (as you turn this into some sort of pointless internet commando battle) would be hilarious if your ignorance wasn't endangering all of those around you. The very weight you saved is what makes the wheel strong enough to safely hold up to the physics associated with a sedan that weighs over 5,000lbs.

But hey, why listen to the voice of reason when it presents itself from someone who seemingly knows way more about wheel application and theory when you can just YOLO it up and end up like this guy:

But nah bro, you got this. That wheel has a BMW logo on it so I'm sure it will cure world hunger too so something like physics is child's play!

Good luck!

Disclaimer: based on your attitude I really couldn't care much less what happens with you and your car but I want to at least inject a little bit of information so others who read this as a good idea at least know to do their own research before trusting some stranger on an internet forum who doesn't even know wheels are rated for safety.

Those look like BBK wheels if so they are made of cast aluminum, not forged aluminum

 

[yamanote]

That's an awful lot of words but yet not one piece of evidence that these wheels were engineered to support a 5,000lb vehicle safely which was my original point. I wonder why that is.

Just a bunch of personal attacks when my original intent was to shed some light on something that most people don't realize until it's too late (photo evidence included above). Previously, this wasn't an issue when you've got 400hp vehicles weighing around 3,500lbs. The physics involved with a car that's nearly double those power levels (Instant. Massive difference in power delivery shock on the driveline to include the wheels) and 20% more weight.

The cornering forces are even greater considering the low center of gravity on these cars doesn't have has much body roll as your typical ICE car which means that those forces are directly focused laterally into the wheels. The very weight savings touted in this thread are necessary for strength and it's constant battle between weight and strength which is why the safety rating tests exist in the first place. Sure, you can use better wheel making technology such as forged but physics is still physics. Even a forged wheel that's engineered to be lightweight at the razors edge of meeting failure tolerances for a much lighter vehicle is grossly under-suited to safely meet the requirements of a 5,000lb car... Regardless of how much you attack me personally.

This is why I made the comment about removing your rotors to save even more weight because it's more similar of a comparison than you seem to realize. You're quite literally sacrificing safety for a couple of pounds weight savings but those weight savings are quite literally what makes the wheel strong enough to not become a safety hazard.

I didn't realize this post was a BMW stock holders meeting which is where blind defense of the beloved brand comes from when this was never about BMW's quality which seems to have triggered a few fanbois.

"When you know you're right, pound the facts. When you know you're wrong, pound the table"

I lead a horse to water but now it refuses to drink so... enjoy your wheels that fall woefully short of meeting safety engineering specifications required for a Tesla Model S!

Nobody in this thread has resorted to personal attacks except for you LOL

Not really why you are resorting to calling me a BMW fanboy when nothing close to alluding to that has even been said. As I said, BMW doesn't even manufacture those wheels, Fuchs does.

I hate to break it to you but there is absolutely nothing unique about the OEM Tesla wheels. They are cheap cast wheels that bend and crack if you look at them wrong, as has been shown time and time again on this forum. What load rating do you know that exists for the OE wheels? Is there a technical data sheet you have to share? Simply screaming over and over that heavy = strong does not make it true, sorry. Please stop pounding the table.

You haven't shared anything to suggest that these wheels are unsafe either - your photo 'evidence' is proof that wheels can crack, and literally nothing else unless you have the story behind it.

I've attached several photos of cracked Tesla Turbine wheels. Probably more relevant to this discussion than a random picture taken with a potato stolen off another forum with zero context...

 

[drift]

Thought I'd share for anyone looking to upgrade to better looking and performing non-Tesla 19" wheels.

2020 Model S Performance. Here was my original setup: First photo below is a drive from Dallas to Austin yesterday with that wheel setup.

1. 19" aero wheels.
2. 8.5 inch wide, 245x45x19 square setup
3. Goodyear RSA2 supposedly low rolling resistance tires. But these are pretty inexpensive tires so take Goodyear's claim for what its worth.
4. 20MM wheel adapters in rear
5. ~1 inch lowered on blox links

283 wh / mile

Here is my new setup I got yesterday in Austin. Same distance back from Austin to Dallas doing the same 72 on highway with cruise/auto-pilot.

1. 19" BMW 437M wheels. These M3/M4 forged wheels are stupid light - 23 lbs front and 24 lbs rear. Including tires, I am now 8 lbs ligher per wheel&tire in front and 2.5 lbs lighter per wheel&tire in rear for a total of 21 lbs unsprung weight reduction.
2. 9 inch front, 10 inch rear staggered setup
3. Goodyear RSA2 245x45x19 tires in front (same as previous, I had them move front tires over) and 275x40x19 Continental DWS06 Sport+ all season tires in back. Total diameter of 275x40 same as 245x45.
4. ITM TPMS sensors
5. Turner motorsports 72 to 66 hub rings in aluminum - to adapt the BMW hub to Tesla
6. No wheel adapters in front or rear as the BMW wheels have a more aggressive offset than stock aero wheels.
7. ~1 inch lowered on blox links (no change from before)

250 wh/mile.

Super happy with this setup! The 10+% efficiency gain is a bonus but just the upgrade in looks is worth it to me. If someone wants to do this and go a step further, I would recommend buying two sets of 437M front wheels and that way you will have a square 9 inch setup and you can run native Tesla spec 245x45x19 tires in front and rear. With the right EV-specific tires, this will be an incredibly efficient setup and nice upgrade over stock hubcap wheels.

I ordered custom center caps with Tesla logo though I think its funny to run BMW center caps ha. Enough talking, here are pics.

View attachment 873041

View attachment 873042


View attachment 873043

View attachment 873044


View attachment 873046

Looks just like my powder coated and machined original Tesla 19 in alloys, but mine were designed and tested for the Model S.

 

[Ostrichsak]

Nobody in this thread has resorted to personal attacks except for you LOL

Not really why you are resorting to calling me a BMW fanboy when nothing close to alluding to that has even been said. As I said, BMW doesn't even manufacture those wheels, Fuchs does.

I hate to break it to you but there is absolutely nothing unique about the OEM Tesla wheels. They are cheap cast wheels that bend and crack if you look at them wrong, as has been shown time and time again on this forum. What load rating do you know that exists for the OE wheels? Is there a technical data sheet you have to share? Simply screaming over and over that heavy = strong does not make it true, sorry. Please stop pounding the table.

You haven't shared anything to suggest that these wheels are unsafe either - your photo 'evidence' is proof that wheels can crack, and literally nothing else unless you have the story behind it.

I've attached several photos of cracked Tesla Turbine wheels. Probably more relevant to this discussion than a random picture taken with a potato stolen off another forum with zero context...

So your homeboy addressing me with "Hey dumbass" wasn't a personal attack? I can only assume you don't understand what the phrase "personal attack" means in this case because that's pretty obviously a personal attack, by definition. But yeah.... I'm the one attacking others personally. Sure.

You made my point by saying that even heavier wheels that ARE safety rated for the weight of a Model S have been known to fail. So your solution is to go with a wheel that was engineered specifically for a much lighter vehicle with much less power as a solution? Posting pictures of broken Tesla wheels further illustrates why you should be seeking MORE durable wheels with these cars. Being forged doesn't in and of itself make a wheel invincible, especially when it was never engineered to be on a car like the Model S.

But hey, why listen to me?

TSW made an article on why "load rating of a wheel, as determined by the wheel manufacturer, must never be exceeded" found here.

Here's the time stamped link to the part of the video where he talks about this

This was a 5-second search. You can find much more info yourself if you actually care including endless pictures of wheels (cheap and expensive alike) with catastrophic failure due to mismatching wheel load ratings to the vehicle they're being mounted on.

What is more challenging to find is the load rating for individual factory wheels. They get around this because they literally engineer them for the car they go on so it's not something they have to provide tot he consumer. Aftermarket wheels typically have this load rating however because they sell them direct-to-consumer and many different vehicles of different weights share the same bolt pattern... especially now that EVs are a thing. Before 2012 no wheel manufacturer every suspected that 5,000+ pound sedans would be the norm. This topic is more discussed in the 4x4 forums because the weight differences can be more extreme. It wasn't until EVs that this was even a consideration on passenger cars because they were all within a few hundred pounds of each other, at most.

All I've done is challenged how much consideration was given to the safety aspect of strapping random wheels on a VERY heavy and powerful vehicle. If this had been considered the response would have been much less toxic and logical. The response tone even in complete absence of anything of substance tells me all I need to know though.

Again, your car and you can do whatever the heck you want. This thread comes off as saying it's a good idea though. It's experimental at best and I'm here to offer information that others at least consider load ratings and safety from catastrophic wheel failure since the OP clearly hasn't. This is more for those who subscribe to the "just gonna send it" approach to potentially dangerous decisions in life. I tend to rely on data, analytics and physics whenever I stray off of the beaten path but that's just me.

 

[yamanote]

Looks just like my powder coated and machined original Tesla 19 in alloys, but mine were designed and tested for the Model S.

The powdercoating process affects the metallurgy of the wheel by a nonzero amount as well. In Germany for example even original wheels that have been powdercoated are no longer considered TUV certified, and thus would no longer be road legal. Minimal risk with cast wheels but if you're super concerned about wheel strength it is something to consider.

So your homeboy addressing me with "Hey dumbass" wasn't a personal attack? I can only assume you don't understand what the phrase "personal attack" means in this case because that's pretty obviously a personal attack, by definition. But yeah.... I'm the one attacking others personally. Sure.

You made my point by saying that even heavier wheels that ARE safety rated for the weight of a Model S have been known to fail. So your solution is to go with a wheel that was engineered specifically for a much lighter vehicle with much less power as a solution? Posting pictures of broken Tesla wheels further illustrates why you should be seeking MORE durable wheels with these cars. Being forged doesn't in and of itself make a wheel invincible, especially when it was never engineered to be on a car like the Model S.

But hey, why listen to me?

TSW made an article on why "load rating of a wheel, as determined by the wheel manufacturer, must never be exceeded" found here.

Here's the time stamped link to the part of the video where he talks about this

This was a 5-second search. You can find much more info yourself if you actually care including endless pictures of wheels (cheap and expensive alike) with catastrophic failure due to mismatching wheel load ratings to the vehicle they're being mounted on.

What is more challenging to find is the load rating for individual factory wheels. They get around this because they literally engineer them for the car they go on so it's not something they have to provide tot he consumer. Aftermarket wheels typically have this load rating however because they sell them direct-to-consumer and many different vehicles of different weights share the same bolt pattern... especially now that EVs are a thing. Before 2012 no wheel manufacturer every suspected that 5,000+ pound sedans would be the norm. This topic is more discussed in the 4x4 forums because the weight differences can be more extreme. It wasn't until EVs that this was even a consideration on passenger cars because they were all within a few hundred pounds of each other, at most.

All I've done is challenged how much consideration was given to the safety aspect of strapping random wheels on a VERY heavy and powerful vehicle. If this had been considered the response would have been much less toxic and logical. The response tone even in complete absence of anything of substance tells me all I need to know though.

Again, your car and you can do whatever the heck you want. This thread comes off as saying it's a good idea though. It's experimental at best and I'm here to offer information that others at least consider load ratings and safety from catastrophic wheel failure since the OP clearly hasn't. This is more for those who subscribe to the "just gonna send it" approach to potentially dangerous decisions in life. I tend to rely on data, analytics and physics whenever I stray off of the beaten path but that's just me.

I'd argue that you started it first by intentionally being inflammatory. OP took the time to try the wheels and post his test results to the benefit of the community, and you came in and basically said that what he did was stupid and akin to removing the brakes on his car. Then in absence of a good response to the points I brought up, you resorted to ad hominem attacks about me being a 'fanboi'. It was your toxic commentary that brought toxic responses, not the other way around.

And even here you couldn't resist yet another ad hominem attack by saying I don't understand what a personal attack is? Just go back up the thread and look at who started with the inflammatory language.

I don't think anyone disagrees that the load bearing of wheels is important. I think everyone's issue here with you is the manner with which you're stating with absolute certainty that these wheels are unsafe sans evidence.
Yes, I can find plenty of photos of catastrophically failed wheels too - but can you really directly attribute those random pictures to being an issue with the weight bearing? Let's go back to the photo that you posted as one example. I'll ask for the second time, do you know the story behind it?

I'd like to point out that you haven't exactly shared anything of substance either, nor any data beyond saying over and over that the heavier the wheel the stronger it is. You have still shown zero evidence to show that these wheels are inherently unsafe other than, "I'm smarter than you, trust me bro".

The data which you did bring to the table was completely wrong to begin with. The M4 cabriolet came with these wheels stock and its GVWR exceeds the base curb weight of the Model S. Your entire premise was based on the wheel being designed for a car '50% lighter' than the Tesla, right? Now that that's been proven incorrect, the argument is shifting to something about the Tesla having less body roll? We're really just making things up as we go along here I see... a wise man once said something about pounding tables that comes to mind.

 

[xxaarraa]

Again, your car and you can do whatever the heck you want.

Disclaimer: based on your attitude I really couldn't care much less what happens with you and your car

I lead a horse to water but now it refuses to drink so... enjoy your wheels that fall woefully short of meeting safety engineering specifications required for a Tesla Model S!

Why are you still here? Don't you have better things to do like naming your car and putting 'loaded' in your signature? That is so cringe-worthy and amateurish!

Really, it's ok to go. We won't miss you.

 

[jacie6056]

I always love BMW's wheels. So I decided to go around to check the load rating and just found that the load rating on stock 437M is rating at 815 kg. It seems like it's a very stong wheel.
.
Now it is just one last step to check on the model S door sticker to verify the heaviest axle for the maximum load weight, then divide by two.

PS: It does look so cool!!

 

[teslick2]

I always love BMW's wheels. So I decided to go around to check the load rating and just found that the load rating on stock 437M is rating at 815 kg. It seems like it's a very stong wheel.
.
Now it is just one last step to check on the model S door sticker to verify the heaviest axle for the maximum load weight, then divide by two.

PS: It does look so cool!!

View attachment 874049

I did a quick google search and the heaviest rear axel I found was 1500kg (older performance model with big rear drive unit), which I think is still within range for this wheel.