2020 Salvaged Model S won't go into drive/reverse or charge when on

[jshighfill]

I've read many discussions but can't find what to try next on my salvaged 2020 model S to get it out of park. It had front right damage from Copart. Body damage is not a problem for me to fix. I have replaced the Pyrofuse and managed to get Tesla to program a key for me (as it came without a key) - 1st major challenge. The car will charge when powered off but once I power the car on I have a constant humming noise from what seems around the area of the charge port and the charge port door will not open and I cannot charge. I have about 100 errors when reading my vitals I'm not worried about at the moment but in Toolbox 3 I can't get it to read/clear DTC's. 12V battery/charging seem to work fine as well as 12V car functions (screens, doors, windows etc). My RCM has been reprogrammed and my driver's side seatbelt has been rebuilt and both should be delivered today and installed (thanks FedEx for the delivery delay). I've replaced the steering wheel airbag and clockspring module (only because Tesla service documents said I had to) but I haven't managed to source a left knee airbag as of yet. I'm assuming the humming noise is that my drive connectors are open and I can't figure out how to close them. The HV Battery pyrofuse located under the battery on the passenger side was tested and working fine. I'm at a loss as to what to tear apart next. I have my Class 0 1000V HV safety gloves but would appreciated being pointed in the right direction rather than tearing apart what seems to be a very nice car. I apologize if the answer is in another forum. This is my first time ever asking a question in a forum such as this and my first EV. I have only worked on ICE cars in the past. I have a wife and kids so no need to tell me I'm an idiot (they have that covered - lol).

 

[gavinli2007123]

I've read many discussions but can't find what to try next on my salvaged 2020 model S to get it out of park. It had front right damage from Copart. Body damage is not a problem for me to fix. I have replaced the Pyrofuse and managed to get Tesla to program a key for me (as it came without a key) - 1st major challenge. The car will charge when powered off but once I power the car on I have a constant humming noise from what seems around the area of the charge port and the charge port door will not open and I cannot charge. I have about 100 errors when reading my vitals I'm not worried about at the moment but in Toolbox 3 I can't get it to read/clear DTC's. 12V battery/charging seem to work fine as well as 12V car functions (screens, doors, windows etc). My RCM has been reprogrammed and my driver's side seatbelt has been rebuilt and both should be delivered today and installed (thanks FedEx for the delivery delay). I've replaced the steering wheel airbag and clockspring module (only because Tesla service documents said I had to) but I haven't managed to source a left knee airbag as of yet. I'm assuming the humming noise is that my drive connectors are open and I can't figure out how to close them. The HV Battery pyrofuse located under the battery on the passenger side was tested and working fine. I'm at a loss as to what to tear apart next. I have my Class 0 1000V HV safety gloves but would appreciated being pointed in the right direction rather than tearing apart what seems to be a very nice car. I apologize if the answer is in another forum. This is my first time ever asking a question in a forum such as this and my first EV. I have only worked on ICE cars in the past. I have a wife and kids so no need to tell me I'm an idiot (they have that covered - lol).

Hey, first of all, you are an idiot buying a salvage car. Im joking here. They can be great cars even if they have a salvage title, u just gotta know what to do when you repair them. I am wondering if you have a copy of toolbox/service manuals? Also, do you mind sending a few pictures of the errors and collision damage?

 

[jshighfill]

 

[jshighfill]

 

[jshighfill]

Thanks for replying! Unfortunately most of the damage has already been repaired. The bumper carrier, A/C radiator, A/C radiator houseing, headlight, right control arm, right fender and damage to the hood that are seen in the photo were all replaced.

 

[jshighfill]

I do have a copy of Toolbox and the service manuals

 

[gavinli2007123]

Alright, so here is how I would go about tackling this issue. Do a visual inspection of all of the wiring that is in the area of the accident. It is possible that some kind of wire got cut/shorted or something. If it looks ok, finish all of the damage repair, and do a updated reading of all of the error codes. That eliminates the errors that are caused by stuff unplugged, etc. Once that is done, take a fresh code read, and see which codes remain. Then work out which modules are spitting out the errors, and look in the wiring diagram/connector reference to see which wires run through the colision zone. (Basically check if the wires are good.) If they all test good, t hen you want to start working out, if its some kind of dead module, or if it is some kind of communication error because I am pretty sure the motors communicate on the can lines.

 

[gavinli2007123]

Also, what kind of electronics experience do you have? 1 is an idiot, 100 is an electrical engineer.

 

[jshighfill]

30 out of 100. I've tried running continuity test on some of the wiring harnesses I suspected might have issues but have failed to find any broken wires/issues. I'll continue to try to find a broken wire.

 

[tiburci]

Tas2_A025 and other TAS can be clear with T-Can Pro, in my case I wasn't clear with Toolbox 3. Very important to clear the crash event, Looks like there is (was) a leak on TAS2, you can measure pressure on TAS2 with toolbox3, If not tried, resetting changing the Tires via software helps clear some DTC, Which can be done with TcanPro.