2021 Model 3 and differences from 2020

[AlanSubie4Life]

Excellent info; thank you. On the 'budget' issue, I guess you mean for a new battery pack... which makes sense. And I just thought of one last question on that subject: Does the battery pack have a life of 'x' amount of years, or 'y' amount of miles, whichever occurs first, or it's just miles that drive down battery capacity? I ask because that car would probably see about 6K miles per year. Need to take that cost into account, if we'd have to replace the pack, let's say, every 10 years, regardless of mileage. By the way, how much is to change a pack now, labor included? Thank you again for your excellent and prompt replies .

I didn't mean budget in terms of cost. I meant budget in terms of the type/distance drives you plan to do. Specifically, don't plan out some super marginal trip pushing the envelope that you want to make in your brand new Model 3 and plan to still be able to do it after two years. You're very likely going to see capacity loss: count on it and plan accordingly. And be pessimistic about what you expect. That way you won't be disappointed.

This is getting off-topic, but just to wrap this up.

It's about $15k for an LR pack replacement at the current time.

The warranty is 8-year, 120k mile, with less than 30% capacity loss, for Model 3.

Vehicle Warranty

Both age and miles drive down capacity.

Empirically, it is common to lose a lot of capacity in the first year or two, and then the capacity loss slows down. The amount of capacity loss is quite variable. Some people have relatively little, others have a lot. I'm at about 7-9% capacity loss after 20k miles and two years, which is quite normal (though probably a little below average). The capacity loss does not appear to be strongly affected by how the battery is treated, though certainly it is possible to abuse a battery. These numbers all assume a battery that is treated well.

 

[JCtx]

Watch this video to understand how Tesla calculates the range

Very useful; thank you. So bottom line is the theoretical total range of 353 miles (or whatever it is for each model year) is BS, since you cannot really use all of it. As AlanSubie said, you cannot risk going below 0 anyway, since your car can shut down at any time. Plus it's not good for the battery either. So for practical purposes, the maximum IDEAL real life range of a 2021 LR M3 is 337 miles (353 - 4.5% = 337), correct? Then you need to deduct other losses like A/C, heater, over-the-speed-limit, etc.

 

[JCtx]

I meant budget in terms of the type/distance drives you plan to do.

Oh yeah, I know about that. Basically try to keep the battery between 20 to 80%, except when on a trip. No way we'd ever be caught below 20% capacity by choice. Ha ha. We'd probably keep the car hooked up to the house (regular outlet) when not in use, maxed out to 80%. But thank you for the clarification .

 

[TimothyHW3]

going below 0 anyway, since your car can shut down at any time.

No, wrong. I would basically ignore most of the things you read there. You can go to below 0% and I have done this multiple times(at least 3). This is just something Tesla uses as a mind barrier - if you think of 0% as 4.5% then you will look at it differently. Another indication is that at 0% the car can still drive at 100km/h

I had one hairy situation lately where I didn't know the last 10km were a 7% hill climb and that almost killed me(arrived with negative).

It is true that cars in the past have shutdown at around 10km range left, but if the car is still operational and you don't floor it(it is the acceleration that kills the battery at low SOC) then you should be fine with driving it to 0% or below that.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

No, wrong. I would basically ignore most of the things you read there. You can go to below 0% and I have done this multiple times(at least 3). This is just something Tesla uses as a mind barrier - if you think of 0% as 4.5% then you will look at it differently. Another indication is that at 0% the car can still drive at 100km/h

I had one hairy situation lately where I didn't know the last 10km were a 7% hill climb and that almost killed me(arrived with negative).

It is true that cars in the past have shutdown at around 10km range left, but if the car is still operational and you don't floor it(it is the acceleration that kills the battery at low SOC) then you should be fine with driving it to 0% or below that.

I am not surprised at your result, but presenting a few anecdotal situations where it has been ok does not guarantee that it will always be that way for everyone. I've been pretty clear that that energy below 0% is often usable and alluded to videos showing as much. I mean...they use it in the EPA test, routinely, and using it is required to make the "EPA range".

However: 1) It's probably not that great for the battery. 2) It's a high risk, high stress event. 3) It requires knowledge of how far you can push into the buffer "safely". 4) In most situations where this arises, the user will be driving at 130km/hr - do you recommend that? (You can't slow down on the freeway below about 112km/hr safely.)

So practically speaking, for most reasonable people who do not want to risk the dangerous situation of being stranded by the side of the road, it's not a great option. Can you imagine a happily married couple driving along, deep into the buffer? I don't see that scenario unfolding well at all.

Anyway, this is off-topic for this 2021 thread, except for how it relates to the actual capacity of the battery of the 2021s.

the maximum IDEAL real life range of a 2021 LR M3 is 337 miles (353 - 4.5% = 337), correct?

For the 2021 AWD Model 3 in the US, the range (to 0%, not including the buffer) is 353 rated miles, for a new battery, if you achieve 210Wh/mi consumption. (This would require driving at 40-50mph or so, probably.)

0.955*77.6kWh/353mi = 210Wh/mi

At 80mph, you'll be at closer to 270Wh/mi or so with the stock tires (this is just a rough estimate, probably in the range of 260-290Wh/mi), and your range (100% to 0%) will be:

0.955*77.6kWh/270Wh/mi = 274 miles. (255miles to 285 miles) Assuming level terrain.

 

[itsRP]

I am not surprised at your result, but presenting a few anecdotal situations where it has been ok does not guarantee that it will always be that way for everyone. I've been pretty clear that that energy below 0% is often usable and alluded to videos showing as much. I mean...they use it in the EPA test, routinely, and using it is required to make the "EPA range".

However: 1) It's probably not that great for the battery. 2) It's a high risk, high stress event. 3) It requires knowledge of how far you can push into the buffer "safely". 4) In most situations where this arises, the user will be driving at 130km/hr - do you recommend that? (You can't slow down on the freeway below about 112km/hr safely.)

So practically speaking, for most reasonable people who do not want to risk the dangerous situation of being stranded by the side of the road, it's not a great option. Can you imagine a happily married couple driving along, deep into the buffer? I don't see that scenario unfolding well at all.

Anyway, this is off-topic for this 2021 thread, except for how it relates to the actual capacity of the battery of the 2021s.



For the 2021 AWD Model 3 in the US, the range (to 0%, not including the buffer) is 353 rated miles, for a new battery, if you achieve 210Wh/mi consumption. (This would require driving at 40-50mph or so, probably.)

0.955*77.6kWh/353mi = 210Wh/mi

At 80mph, you'll be at closer to 270Wh/mi or so with the stock tires (this is just a rough estimate, probably in the range of 260-290Wh/mi), and your range (100% to 0%) will be:

0.955*77.6kWh/270Wh/mi = 274 miles. (255miles to 285 miles) Assuming level terrain.

This thread was great to read. Thank you for everything!

 

[Marius A]

I haven't read through the whole thread but I tried searching for these codes and nothing came up. I read on the tesla-info facebook page the manufacturing option codes that are starting to differ between 2020 and 2021 support some of the findings - hardly surprising - but you can search for these option codes on inventory to make sure what you order has them. I imagine they may also differ from country to country a little

The notable code changes are
- The new battery code is BT42 not BT37 but not all P and LR 2021 cars have it, I could only find 2021 Performance models in Europe .
- Heat pump is HP31 (HP30 is no heat pump)
- The onboard charger has changed in Europe to CH15 (not sure what code it was before, but it was different)
- Headlights in some countries have changed (code HL31 becoming HL32)
- The steering wheel code has changed ST31 to ST30 which if you search for cars with it is also the code used from 2018/2019 so maybe rather than a new wheel, its just gone back to an earlier wheel.

Nothing mentioned on codes for the glass but thats pretty easy to spot.

CH06 is the charger in 2020 TM3

 

[Marius A]

CH06 is the charger in 2020 TM3

Turns out I was wrong. My 2020 TM3P and the 2021 TM3P both have CH15, so doesn't seem like there CH06 is from "the olden days"

 

[kxts]

As luck would have it (for you guys, not me ), I scraped my left rear rim pretty badly a few days ago and decided to use the mobile wheel repair service that my local service center recommended. Stupid wide Model 3...it’s a few inches wider than any other small sedan I’ve had. My car’s jacked up right now since the tire had to come off, so I got a nice clean shot of the motor plate.

Looks like it’s still a 990 on my 2021 LR (1120990-00-H).

It looks like last year’s was 1120990-00-G though? Is that accurate? So maybe there is an efficiency improvement in the 990 motor to match the 2020 Performance as I’ve seen speculated here.

Finally picked up a socket wrench to disassemble my frunk, so will hopefully figure out the battery sometime in the next few days.

 

[Marius A]

As luck would have it (for you guys, not me ), I scraped my left rear rim pretty badly a few days ago and decided to use the mobile wheel repair service that my local service center recommended. Stupid wide Model 3...it’s a few inches wider than any other small sedan I’ve had. My car’s jacked up right now since the tire had to come off, so I got a nice clean shot of the motor plate.

Looks like it’s still a 990 on my 2021 LR (1120990-00-H).

It looks like last year’s was 1120990-00-G though? Is that accurate? So maybe there is an efficiency improvement in the 990 motor to match the 2020 Performance as I’ve seen speculated here.

Finally picked up a socket wrench to disassemble my frunk, so will hopefully figure out the battery sometime in the next few days.

Thank you for sacrificing yourself for us

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

Looks like it’s still a 990 on my 2021 LR (1120990-00-H).

Thanks! Good to know the efficiency improvements are from elsewhere (they may be related to the heat pump changes vs. the old setup, even with climate control turned off. It may just be better). Not sure whether this version of the motor represents a revision vs. 2020. Could be slightly more efficient, too. They could also have reduced static losses (losses while car is stationary), since the improvements are more noticeable in the city test than the driving test. (Refresher: 2020 AWD: 169Wh/mi city, 180 Wh/mi hwy, raw, 2020 P Stealth 18": 163Wh/mi/175Wh/mi 2020 P 20": 183Wh/mi/202Wh/mi. 2021 AWD: 159Wh/mi/176Wh/mi 2021 P 20": 184Wh/mi/202Wh/mi. These are all raw dyno numbers, that's why they are so good, BTW. Slow and steady wins the race!)

Doesn't make a lot of sense for it to be static losses though, since the 2021 Performance shows essentially exactly the same efficiency on the two-cycle test as the 2020. This also speaks against the heat pump as being the reason. That's why I was wondering whether it was the motor. Had a hard time explaining a difference on AWD that did not exist on P otherwise.

Still, there's the new version of the tires, and the use of a 2% lower road load HP number on the AWD (1% lower on the P).

New wheels too. I haven't plotted out the curve vs. speed but maybe the new aero wheels matter.

Not sure we'll ever know!

Finally picked up a socket wrench to disassemble my frunk,

I think it's probably easier if you have (safe) ramps to take off a few bolts on the under aero shield? You might even be able to just take off the front lip of the aero shield and pull it down enough to allow a picture with a flashlight and a phone with zoom. The label is in the middle front of the battery AFAIK. I posted a pic yesterday.

You might also be able to reach behind the front right wheel and with the right angle or maybe a selfie stick, take a picture. Might need the wheel off (dangerous) or turned to make it really easy (because then it would be easier to see above the aero shield).

But if you've read about a process and it seems good, have at it!

 

[Mr X]

So..... do the brake lights illuminate different on the new 3 like the new Y's or no lol

 

[TimothyHW3]

Finally picked up a socket wrench to disassemble my frunk, so will hopefully figure out the battery sometime in the next few days.

You don't need to disassemble the frunk for the battery. You need to unscrew the battery protection underneath the car and look at the back for a sticker. Something like this.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

You don't need to disassemble the frunk for the battery. You need to unscrew the battery protection underneath the car and look at the back for a sticker. Something like this.

Just to clarify for people, as I have been saying, this located on the front of the pack:

You actually may not have to remove anything if you have the right tools. I was able to take the picture below easily with my phone at 5x digital zoom, with the front wheels turned to the left. So close! Gets the serial number (no problem reading it), but the part number is hidden by the coolant pipe. However, this year it looks like they have rearranged the label, so probably on a new car my technique would get the part number! (The part number used to be at the bottom of the label; now it appears to be directly below the serial number and would be visible in my picture.) If you have the right light and the right technique you can probably get the this picture, without removing anything.

Removing the aero shield will definitely work.

Disassembling the frunk would probably work but I can't guarantee it. Arguably that is easier than removing the aero cover, since it's just 5 or 6 bolts and some plastic clips, and you don't have to have ramps and get on the ground. If you lose a plastic clip, you'll be removing the aero shield, though!

I'd just try to FIRST get the picture without taking anything apart! Much faster - if you can get the angle. Take 5-10 minutes and if you can't get the angle, try plan B. Look ma, no tools!

 

[jgaudu]

Does anybody know the weight of the new wheels on the M3P?

 

[JCtx]

Hey guys, the 19" wheels just look hideous, and my wife prefers the 18s for the better ride anyway, so will probably get those. But was wondering if you can remove the 'aero' covers, and if the wheels look nice, like the older ones (with new wheel center). She wanted the gray with black/white interior, but Austin only has a blue and red one like that (the gray has black interior). I was surprised to find FOUR new 2021 cars unsold. We're going until next month (Jan 14 to 20), so will probably have to wait and see if they get more, as I'd have to trade her current car.

 

[TimothyHW3]

so will probably have to wait and see if they get more, as I'd have to trade her current car.

Tesla sells almost everything in Q ending. If you miss it now you are looking at February or March.

 

[Pemple]

Hey guys, the 19" wheels just look hideous, and my wife prefers the 18s for the better ride anyway, so will probably get those. But was wondering if you can remove the 'aero' covers, and if the wheels look nice, like the older ones (with new wheel center). She wanted the gray with black/white interior, but Austin only has a blue and red one like that (the gray has black interior). I was surprised to find FOUR new 2021 cars unsold. We're going until next month (Jan 14 to 20), so will probably have to wait and see if they get more, as I'd have to trade her current car.

You can take the covers off...my avatar shows the standard wheels with the covers off. You can also see the look at the link below, it shows the wheel caps to cover the center hub and the bolts you’ll need. I got mine off Amazon but obviously Tesla sell them too.

Model 3 Aero Wheel Cap Kit

 

[Saturday]

Hey guys, the 19" wheels just look hideous

You know I’m very curious about how the new 19s would look powder coated in black. Somebody should do it and post!

 

[B-TAZLA]

Sorry, If previously spoken about - Is the new factory black moldings ( window trim, door handles and etc.) Satin or Shiny Black?
I want to match emblem and order parts.
Thanks