2021+ Model S and Model S Plaid Refresh Issues Thread

[Waldokind]

Following up on the 'cooing dove' sound from the HVAC system. I demonstrated the sound to a technician a few weeks ago and made an appointment with service for next week but canceled after I swung by on Wednesday to see if they had guidance from the factory on what is causing it. They said they hadn't and told me the technician would do diagnostics...I told them this is a really common problem among owners on TMC and there's got to be a fix for it...

I'd read about this here a couple weeks before taking delivery of my MSLR and sure enough I heard it in mine too. At least I thought I did. There's definitely an intermitent "cooing" sound when I'm sitting quietly the car, but yesterday when I was really trying to locate it, I realized the sound was coming from the rearview mirror/forward camera system. Someone else mentioned they have a sound coming from that area too and said it was the cooling fan surging in the housing. So I guess I have to ask, are there two sources of cooing sounds? @jamieb, if you lean forward directly under your rear view mirror, is the sound you hear coming from the mirror or indeed from the HVAC?

 

[Donsla MS]

I'd read about this here a couple weeks before taking delivery of my MSLR and sure enough I heard it in mine too. At least I thought I did. There's definitely an intermitent "cooing" sound when I'm sitting quietly the car, but yesterday when I was really trying to locate it, I realized the sound was coming from the rearview mirror/forward camera system. Someone else mentioned they have a sound coming from that area too and said it was the cooling fan surging in the housing. So I guess I have to ask, are there two sources of cooing sounds? @jamieb, if you lean forward directly under your rear view mirror, is the sound you hear coming from the mirror or indeed from the HVAC?

Interesting! I do not have my S as of yet, but I hope for all others with this issue that the problem to be with the fan! Much easier to get to for sure. I was going to guess that the noise could be gas entering evaporator core as it is operating but the fan in the mirror would be nice..

 

[MAHahh]

What’s the actual error CODE you are receiving. It’s in the Notifications menu. It’s important people start posting these to correlate whether they are the same issue.

RCM2_a070

 

[AlphaTango11]

RCM2_a070

@MAHahh @SailorDave Not sure if this applies to Plaids, but for older S/X, this alert has the text "RCM2_a070_passABStg2Open" which I interpret as Passenger Airbag Stage 2 Open. Note that this is only if your alert is specifically a070, which you will only know from tapping on the alert icon or maybe from the notifications screen.

Airbags have a second stage squib (igniter) that can fire to vary the duration and strength of airbag inflation in a collision. For some reason (likely a loose/disconnected wire), the Restraint Control Module does not think there is a valid circuit for firing that second stage igniter. It could be an issue in the airbag, in the restraint control module, or anywhere in between.

If you carry passengers, this is a potentially serious safety issue. If not, you should still be fine to drive.

Again, this is for older S/X, but I think it applies to Plaid as well.

 

[KOL2000]

I'm unable to do a one-pull close of the front passenger window. I need to hold my finger there the whole time. The driver side window works fine and one full pull of the switch and it closes all the way.

Anyone else having this problem? Is there a software fix or do I need to make a service ticket?

 

[MarcG]

I'm unable to do a one-pull close of the front passenger window. I need to hold my finger there the whole time. The driver side window works fine and one full pull of the switch and it closes all the way.

Anyone else having this problem? Is there a software fix or do I need to make a service ticket?

Try this: open the passenger window all the way first, then close it all the way again. As soon as it’s closed, release the button, then pull up on the button again and hold it for another couple of seconds. That may reset the system and enable one-touch open/close again.

 

[serendipitous]

I'm unable to do a one-pull close of the front passenger window. I need to hold my finger there the whole time. The driver side window works fine and one full pull of the switch and it closes all the way.

Anyone else having this problem? Is there a software fix or do I need to make a service ticket?

Try calibrating your window limit sensors. For each window individually, push and hold to roll the window down. Release, and then push it down again and hold it for a few seconds. Then pull and hold to roll it all the way up. Release and pull again and hold it for a few seconds.

 

[KOL2000]

Brilliant thank you Serendipitous and MarcG!! Will try this today.

 

[KOL2000]

Plaid issue update:

After 1000 miles I now realize I have the following minor issues:
1. The cute little trapped bird making tiny dove sounds in my dashboard. I actually kind of like it. very soothing. Wont ask for any repair.
2. passenger door takes a little more than normal force to close. I like it because I'm assuming the tighter the seal, the quieter the ride. Wont ask for any repair.
3. Random vibration that only occasionally happens when running over a rough patch of pavement while turning or lane changes. Its pretty minor and dont mind it at all. Wont ask for a repair until something big breaks as it also seems like Tesla has no clue what is causing it yet. Hopefully in a year or so they will.

Thats it. For Tesla newbies I'd strongly suggest living with super minor issues (my vibrations are still minor and happen maybe once every other time I drive it) because in my near 10 years of experience you have a good chance of being without your car for quite a while and when you get it back it may not be as good as when you dropped it off. Especially now with service centers overwhelmed.

 

[razh]

Plaid issue update:

After 1000 miles I now realize I have the following minor issues:
1. The cute little trapped bird making tiny dove sounds in my dashboard. I actually kind of like it. very soothing. Wont ask for any repair.
2. passenger door takes a little more than normal force to close. I like it because I'm assuming the tighter the seal, the quieter the ride. Wont ask for any repair.
3. Random vibration that only occasionally happens when running over a rough patch of pavement while turning or lane changes. Its pretty minor and dont mind it at all. Wont ask for a repair until something big breaks as it also seems like Tesla has no clue what is causing it yet. Hopefully in a year or so they will.

Thats it. For Tesla newbies I'd strongly suggest living with super minor issues (my vibrations are still minor and happen maybe once every other time I drive it) because in my near 10 years of experience you have a good chance of being without your car for quite a while and when you get it back it may not be as good as when you dropped it off. Especially now with service centers overwhelmed.

From asking my service rep about this:

The dove sound is expected. It's part of the climate system that regulates cabin humidity. Nothing to fix. Enjoy the dove.

I'm at 800km and have:

1. Yoke buzzing over turn signals. Turn off your audio and climate, and put your ear against it. Service is replacing as we speak.
2. Both front seats had wrinkles on delivery. Service is still waiting on both front seats to replace.
3. The track mode update failed. They fixed it over the app - didn't need to bring the car in.
4. Permanent error code to insert USB stick for Sentry mode. Seems to have gone away after the track mode update.

 

[n2mb_racing]

1. Yoke buzzing over turn signals. Turn off your audio and climate, and put your ear against it. Service is replacing as we speak.

Let me know if that solves it. I've heard it on the two cars I've sat in so far. Plus, it isn't there when I first get in the car in the morning. It only starts once I push a button. That leads me to think it is bad software, not hardware. But, I'll hold out hope!

 

[razh]

Let me know if that solves it. I've heard it on the two cars I've sat in so far. Plus, it isn't there when I first get in the car in the morning. It only starts once I push a button. That leads me to think it is bad software, not hardware. But, I'll hold out hope!

I think it is a software issue as well. At 6 pm, I didn't have this issue. I accepted Software Update to the Plaid track mode. By 8 pm, I was back in the car playing with the track mode stuff and immediately noticed the buzzing sound. It was loud enough that I am confident there is no way I could have missed it before.

I told the service center "Since the update, I've had a buzzing sound over my turn signals, can you take a look?", and shortly after dropping the car off, I saw an updated invoice with yoke assembly on the parts list.

Here's a "hardware fix" success story I found: Plaid Yoke Turn Signals

My best guess is the haptic feedback parts changed enough throughout revisions that the "new" calibration is not valid for old haptic feedback parts. The software isn't smart enough to differentiate between the old and new, so the old parts get the "new" calibration, which isn't a good fit. That would explain why it wasn't a problem at delivery, and after an update, suddenly becomes a problem.

 

[n2mb_racing]

I think it is a software issue as well. At 6 pm, I didn't have this issue. I accepted Software Update to the Plaid track mode. By 8 pm, I was back in the car playing with the track mode stuff and immediately noticed the buzzing sound. It was loud enough that I am confident there is no way I could have missed it before.

I told the service center "Since the update, I've had a buzzing sound over my turn signals, can you take a look?", and shortly after dropping the car off, I saw an updated invoice with yoke assembly on the parts list.

Here's a "hardware fix" success story I found: Plaid Yoke Turn Signals

My best guess is the haptic feedback parts changed enough throughout revisions that the "new" calibration is not valid for old haptic feedback parts. The software isn't smart enough to differentiate between the old and new, so the old parts get the "new" calibration, which isn't a good fit. That would explain why it wasn't a problem at delivery, and after an update, suddenly becomes a problem.

Good to hear! Can you post a screenshot of the part numbers they put in so I can ask for the same thing?

 

[SailorDave]

My error code is RCM2_a064. Front passanger safety restraint system fault.

 

[KOL2000]

Brilliant thank you Serendipitous and MarcG!! Will try this today.

it worked like a charm thanks folks

 

[jamieb]

I'd read about this here a couple weeks before taking delivery of my MSLR and sure enough I heard it in mine too. At least I thought I did. There's definitely an intermitent "cooing" sound when I'm sitting quietly the car, but yesterday when I was really trying to locate it, I realized the sound was coming from the rearview mirror/forward camera system. Someone else mentioned they have a sound coming from that area too and said it was the cooling fan surging in the housing. So I guess I have to ask, are there two sources of cooing sounds? @jamieb, if you lean forward directly under your rear view mirror, is the sound you hear coming from the mirror or indeed from the HVAC?

I will check tomorrow, but I have found repeatedly that if I turn off the HVAC it goes away and returns when I turn HVAC back on. Demonstrated this to the technician at our local service center.

 

[MarcG]

it worked like a charm thanks folks

Glad to hear it and happy to help, as always!

 

[LiveSai]

Got my 60amp charger installed today and found out my model S pcs(power converter) has an issue only allowing me to charge at 32/48amps. I tested the charger with a model 3 which was able to get the full 48/48amps...

 

[n2mb_racing]

I will check tomorrow, but I have found repeatedly that if I turn off the HVAC it goes away and returns when I turn HVAC back on. Demonstrated this to the technician at our local service center.

Yeah, the fan in the rear view mirror turns off when the HVAC is off. It turns back on when the HVAC is turned on.

The problem isn't that the fan just turns on, it's that the software for the fan control is broken. It randomly pulses the fan full blast periodically. It should instead slowly ramp up the fan speed as needed to do whatever cooling / heating they want to do, then ramp down. Then we wouldn't notice the noise. The stupid fan blasts are bad code, someone not handling an interrupt correctly and dumping the wrong value into the PWM controller or overflowing a timer.

 

[fsabek]

so I got my 19 with all seasons and they are great. alignment fixed the yoke off centering. they said they can not do anything with bluetooth since it is working and not always causing problems. They also said there is no breeze the tech who drove the car said when hvac is on there is an air movement or current while when off there is not and hence not much they can do. I am not sure if it is my head or some form of OCD that I feel coldness in my right thigh hip area then i start sticking my hand down and yes the side of the chair and even the door itself are cold but nor sure if that is from a leak. I think a cold air leak would be more noticable. So I am trying to just ignore it.