mbdionio
Member
Thank you posting this info. Now I have the data to help me move forward with the order.
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2021 model Y scan my Tesla battery size
- Thread starter coconutboy84
- Start date
mbdionio
Member
so from 100%SOC, the MY AWD consumed 77.7kWh + unseen battery buffer = ~80ish kWh battery
alexcue
Member
As a quick aside, did anyone notice the difference in motor rated power between the front and rear motors in the LR AWD and the P? Funny seems like the rear AWD has more power. But front is lower, by a bit.
LionelHutz
Member
This is really interesting and I’m surprised it hasn’t received more attention. It seems pretty conclusive that the MYP and LR are getting different batteries (or at the least, different battery management software).
LionelHutz
Member
You’re drawing the wrong conclusion. The full recharge from empty was ~77.7 kWh on the LR but ~81.0 kWh on the P. That data doesn’t allow you to round up for a battery buffer estimate, all it shows is that the MYP tested could take a bigger charge than the LR.
akballow
Member
Yeah makes no sense that LR has more rear power when the P had the larger rear tires... all they did was shift the rear power to the front wheels which gives a closer to equal power delivery.
It also shows Tesla sandbagging the actual motor power numbers, which most of us already know, especially on the MYP.
I measured 162 kW from the front motor, 218 kW from the rear motor after the acceleration boost (LR AWD Y). 509 hp (and 401 lb-ft torque) if you do the conversion. Sorry no numbers stock.
I measured 162 kW from the front motor, 218 kW from the rear motor after the acceleration boost (LR AWD Y). 509 hp (and 401 lb-ft torque) if you do the conversion. Sorry no numbers stock.
Scan My Tesla app, pulling straight from the CAN bus.
Attachments
I need to figure out a better way to upload these graphs. Imgur seems a bit pixelated.
https://i.imgur.com/rTfkrDk.jpg
This is an 18 minute drive, testing battery pack temp. The black line is the energy generated by the motors. The pink line is the Front Stator Motor Temp, the green line is the Rear Stator Motor temp, the blue line is the battery pack temp, and the red line is the ambient temp. I need to add Speed to my SMT app tab so that I can report that out.
I'll probably add some comments and things in a different thread since I don't want to derail this topic. Just wanted to show a screen shot (previous post) of the max motor energy generation, and this graph showing the fluctuation of the battery energy consumption and the impact it has on the Stator Motors and battery pack temps (start 61F, finish 69F).
https://i.imgur.com/rTfkrDk.jpg
This is an 18 minute drive, testing battery pack temp. The black line is the energy generated by the motors. The pink line is the Front Stator Motor Temp, the green line is the Rear Stator Motor temp, the blue line is the battery pack temp, and the red line is the ambient temp. I need to add Speed to my SMT app tab so that I can report that out.
I'll probably add some comments and things in a different thread since I don't want to derail this topic. Just wanted to show a screen shot (previous post) of the max motor energy generation, and this graph showing the fluctuation of the battery energy consumption and the impact it has on the Stator Motors and battery pack temps (start 61F, finish 69F).
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The amazing document that was shared shows on page 29 that the front motor for the LR-AWD is 69kW and rear motor 201kW. So AB really awakens/unlocks the front motor?
Also, agree with others, why is the LR-AWD rear motor more powerful than Performance? How bizarre, or as mentioned above sandbagging which isn't unique to Tesla, other MFG's sandbag performance output. I can't think of any EV MFG's but BMW does this frequently with their ICE vehicles.
Yes, on the LR AWD Y, the AB wakes up the front motor. It's similar to how the AB on the LR AWD 3 works.
Per the document, the Performance rear motor is understated. I haven't seen any MYP owners post much SMT info so we'll have to wait and see exactly how much the value is.
I don't think the Y has gotten the updated battery pack yet. My assumption is that we'll see it sometime in 2021 with the updated headlights and center console.
That does appear true however in the highway portion of the test the performance is more efficient. This is backed up by some driving tests. Around town I am not that concerned about range. When I am on the highway taking trips it becomes critical.
I did a DCFC via CHAdeMO this morning, and watched closely on the ChargePoint app at the battery SOC percentage and amount of total energy transferred.
From 20% to 90% it was 7.99 kWh for each 10% increment. The BMS thinks 10% of the battery capacity is equal to about 8.0 kWh on my MYP.
From 20% to 90% it was 7.99 kWh for each 10% increment. The BMS thinks 10% of the battery capacity is equal to about 8.0 kWh on my MYP.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
The Performance Model Y documents posted here are definitive, when taken in context with prior years and comparing vs. this year's AWD.
It has received a lot of attention in numerous threads, here and on the Model 3 forum.
What we can't know (without paying close attention to voltage numbers out of SMT at 100% charge on an AWD vs. a Performance) is whether the AWD is actually an ~82kWh pack with a lockout. I doubt it, but the only way to tell would be a difference in the fully charged voltage, or a difference in the regen available at 100% vs. the prior model year. (This is assuming a top lock, not a bottom lock.)
There is. Assuming the car is delivered at a decent SoC (above 80%):
Switch to Car -> Display -> Energy Display Mode => Energy
Then go to ^ -> Energy->Consumption screen, select "5 mile, average" and calculate:
Battery Capacity @ 100% (in Wh) = Avg Wh/mi * Projected Range / SoC%
If the data is not complete due to not enough miles, not sure what will happen, so car has to have 5 miles, maybe.
That will always give you your true battery capacity at 100%, within about 1kWh. You should get a result of about 77-78kWh for an AWD, and about 80-81kWh for a 2021 Performance, AFAIK. (Others who actually own one of these models can comment).
If you see lower than that (like 75-76kWh for an AWD, and 78-79kWh or lower for a 2021 Performance), personally, I would consider refusing delivery. The reason being is that means you're on the low end of initial capacity (which is something that happens; there is natural variation), so why not just wait for one that starts with ~2% more energy? There's nothing that guarantees the alternative vehicle with higher initial capacity will not decay faster, but it still improves your chances.
Caveat 1: Can't emphasize enough that you have to do this assessment at a decent charge level (otherwise massive rounding error will cause errors in the estimate), so emphasize you want your car charged above 70% (preferably 80-90%) at delivery.
Caveat 2: Relevant to current time of year: it probably won't work well when the car battery is very cold (not sure how this will work). If you've got blue snowflake or cold battery indications, don't bother calculating. If the vehicle was kept inside the delivery center you'll probably be fine. You might be able to warm the car battery from the app (if the car is plugged in - unlikely) before signing papers if they let you, but it'll be a while. The point is that this calculation can be thrown off by cold conditions.
This method, at the current time, should work on any Model 3 or Model Y vehicle. Probably any Tesla vehicle, but no idea.
As an example, on my 2018 Model 3, my capacity is 71kWh (down from initial value of ~77kWh). This is perfectly normal and expected.
118mi*477Wh/mi / 0.79 = 71250Wh = 71kWh (only 2 significant digits, so saying 71.3kWh is meaningless)
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