2021 Plaid was DOA this morning...

[MayorMcCheese]

So last night about 8:30pm, my SM in New Orleans texted me and said my car was now online. I ran out to the garage and it was! So my outage was about 48 hours. I checked everything... DIC, MCU, phone app, all were working normally.

Since the car was back online, he pulled all diagnostic logs and they only thing he found out of sorts was a report of USB file corruption on the Sentry drive (factory Tesla USB drive) in the glovebox. So I pulled that last night and (so far) no issues. We'll see if that holds. If so, I'm surprised the MCU can't get past a simple Linux fsck to verify/ignore attached filesystem issues.

OMFG that would be wild.

Mine came up this morning. If it dies again I will definitely pull the drive. Actually... how would I even get the glove box open without the screen? Better pull it now...

 

[jebinc]

You have a Plaid on 19's and have the ~45mph shimmy? Although I haven't been following the thread for this, yours is the first 19" tires I've heard of with the problem. So that eliminates tires/wheels as the issue. I never suspected that anyway, but others did. My Service Manager at the New Orleans Service Center drove my car and felt the "shimmy". He noted it in my records for any future fallout. My VIN is MF432. Ordered 10/2020.

@Dameon Thank for the input. Please visit the Plaid issues thread and vote here.

Poll: 3x - 4x mph Refreshed Model S (LR and Plaid) Vibration issue build / VIN ranges

We are trying to understand how wide-spread this issue is, and to see if Telsa resolved the issue "in production" cars after a certain VIN range. Please provide as much color as you can, by commenting and voting! - jebinc

teslamotorsclub.com

2021+ Model S and Model S Plaid Refresh Issues Thread

This. I just swapped my 21s for my 19s and and the grinding went away. I've also found this to be true in the past swapping from summer to all season rubber, on the same size rims. No such issue with my 19s and Conti AS tires.

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[SoCal Buzz]

So last night about 8:30pm, my SM in New Orleans texted me and said my car was now online. I ran out to the garage and it was! So my outage was about 48 hours. I checked everything... DIC, MCU, phone app, all were working normally.

Since the car was back online, he pulled all diagnostic logs and they only thing he found out of sorts was a report of USB file corruption on the Sentry drive (factory Tesla USB drive) in the glovebox. So I pulled that last night and (so far) no issues. We'll see if that holds. If so, I'm surprised the MCU can't get past a simple Linux fsck to verify/ignore attached filesystem issues.

That’s great news, what a relief and time saver for you! I’ve noticed something strange with the USB drive. If I reboot car the sentry access fails and cannot access the USB. If I unplug and re-insert USB it starts working again (usually after I reformat).

Also, FYI I learned that the manual Park/Drive select buttons can most easily be displayed by quickly single-clicking both scroll wheels at the same time.

 

[Dameon]

That’s great news, what a relief and time saver for you! I’ve noticed something strange with the USB drive. If I reboot car the sentry access fails and cannot access the USB. If I unplug and re-insert USB it starts working again (usually after I reformat).

Yes, the Sentry USB drive is something I've spent way too much time on... troubleshooting normal behavior and understanding its limitations: Wiki - 2021+ Model S Refresh - Missing/Incomplete Software Features

Also, FYI I learned that the manual Park/Drive select buttons can most easily be displayed by quickly single-clicking both scroll wheels at the same time.

Wow, that's an interesting observation. I'll try that in a bit and report back. It's not always getting them to light up... although that's a challenge in most cases, the bigger challenge is getting them to change from P to R to D to N to whatever. I really should make a video for these weird issues. Video record.

 

[Tam]

...Not sure what the first statement means... drivable is relative...

Tesla has a clear rule that if your car is driveable, then you'll have to wait in line for your next appointment. If your car is not driveable then Road Assistance can tow your car under the warranty.

You are correct that "drivable is relative". By default, Tesla would pressure owners to wait for the next appointment with the assumption that it's "drivable".

That is why you need to be clear that this is not an assumption but it's a clear undrivable case. If you express unsureness, then, of course, Tesla would want you to wait.

It's fine to question whether your car can charge or not. But to talk to Tesla, you need to be clear that my car cannot charge either at home and at Supercharger and I have only 150 miles left in the battery gauge when the closest Service Center is 200 miles away. A tow is needed as soon as possible.

 

[Dameon]

A couple of observations...

I put my Sentry USB drive in my Windows PC and it didn't give me the "drive needs to be checked" message. But the embedded Linux in the MCU may not mark unclean umounts in a way Windows interprets them.

The drive wasn't anywhere near capacity:

Which is another issue of mine. It should continue saving files until it reaches some level of capacity. It seems like Sentry files only stick around for one drive cycle. If I'm running around town, I may have a dozen drive cycles and an event that happened on the first cycle is already gone.

Resolution and frame rate of these videos suck:

Not to mention the horrible saturation of colors. I guess these cameras aren't built for their photographic acuity.

I was able to copy all files, without error, to my PC. I spot checked video files and they all played. I wrote a couple test files to the USB drive without failure. I ran a (mostly worthless) Windows File System check without errors:

I'm not sure where the "corruption" is, but I can't find it.

Only oddity, and this might be expected behavior, is in the Recent Clips folder. The first few are valid files, but everything else in there is bogus 1KB files. Maybe that's where the corruption is?

I'm going to leave the drive out for a for days/weeks and see if the issue goes away. If so, I'll likely put it back in and see if it returns. I don't intend on formatting or altering the drive until then. It would be nice to be able to replicate the issue.

 

[Tam]

...I'm surprised the MCU can't get past a simple Linux fsck to verify/ignore attached filesystem issues.

I am glad that your car works again. The car system can be corrupted and down by USB flash drive. Tesla blamed the non-Tesla brand drive but I think it's the software problem and not the flash drive brand problem.

Official Tesla USB Needed for Sentry Mode

I've been using a Samsung USB drive for some time now on both my P3D+ and X. Amazon.com t/B0874YS2N7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie Over the past year, however, the X's dash screen and GPS would often not turn on at all, or crash mid-drive--It's been a pain in the tuckus. Tesla kept...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[Dameon]

I am glad that your car works again. The car system can be corrupted and down by USB flash drive. Tesla blamed the non-Tesla brand drive but I think it's the software problem and not the flash drive brand problem.

Official Tesla USB Needed for Sentry Mode

I've been using a Samsung USB drive for some time now on both my P3D+ and X. Amazon.com t/B0874YS2N7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie Over the past year, however, the X's dash screen and GPS would often not turn on at all, or crash mid-drive--It's been a pain in the tuckus. Tesla kept...

teslamotorsclub.com

Interesting thread... but in my case, this is the OEM Tesla USB drive. Whether it is actually manufacturer by Samsung is another discussion. Unless you somehow acquired the appropriate .inf file for this hardware, it's going to configure itself as a generic storage device...

People on eBay are calling them Samsung, but I'm not sure how they determined that. Back of the drive doesn't say much...

Front just has a Tesla logo.

 

[Tam]

Interesting thread... but in my case, this is the OEM Tesla USB drive...

Correct! Fortunately, you are using Tesla brand USB drive so they can't give us a lame excuse that it's not Tesla brand!

I've heard USB port can give Tesla system some problems from time to time, so this is nothing new.

What's new is the expensive 2021 Plaid with brand new technology is still suffering USB port problems just like its older siblings!

Maybe Tesla does not want to fix this USB problem any time soon.

 

[Gandalf0]

OMFG that would be wild.

Mine came up this morning. If it dies again I will definitely pull the drive. Actually... how would I even get the glove box open without the screen? Better pull it now...

I pulled my usb yesterday and it’s been dead all day with nothing in the USB. There’s no way that I know of to open the glovebox if the screens are dead.

 

[Dameon]

I pulled my usb yesterday and it’s been dead all day with nothing in the USB. There’s no way that I know of to open the glovebox if the screens are dead.

So your car was online yesterday... i.e. your MCU was running. You pulled both/all USB drives at that time and since then the MCU has died?

 

[MayorMcCheese]

I pulled my usb yesterday and it’s been dead all day with nothing in the USB. There’s no way that I know of to open the glovebox if the screens are dead.

Can you try restarting the 12V? Open the frunk with the app. Take off the central piece of plastic above the storage bin by pulling from the sides. You'll feel some clips disengage; it's fine (I've done it a dozen+ times without breaking anything). Disconnect the fireman's loop near the battery by pulling the red tab backwards then pushing on where the tab was. Pop up the green tab on the battery using something hard like a metal credit card, then pull on the black part of the connector to the left. Whole thing should come right off and you'll hear the car turn off completely. Then just do it in reverse order and see if your MCU comes up.

 

[Gandalf0]

So your car was online yesterday... i.e. your MCU was running. You pulled both/all USB drives at that time and since then the MCU has died?

Yeah plugged it in to charge last night it was fine, nothing plugged into any USB ports. Woke up at 7am car was online in the app so started the climate. Went to get in at about 9 and the screens were dead but the heat was still on high, it was super hot inside. Heat stayed on blasting all day until about 3pm when I was driving everything suddenly turned back on. So lesson learned don’t start the climate in the app or else you wont be able to turn it off until the screens recover.

Thanks for the info MayorMcCheese I will give that a shot when it happens next time.

 

[SoCal Buzz]

Yeah plugged it in to charge last night it was fine, nothing plugged into any USB ports. Woke up at 7am car was online in the app so started the climate. Went to get in at about 9 and the screens were dead but the heat was still on high, it was super hot inside. Heat stayed on blasting all day until about 3pm when I was driving everything suddenly turned back on. So lesson learned don’t start the climate in the app or else you wont be able to turn it off until the screens recover.

Thanks for the info MayorMcCheese I will give that a shot when it happens next time.

Wow, what firmware version are you on? I'm feeling better about being stuck on 2021.31.103.

 

[Gandalf0]

Wow, what firmware version are you on? I'm feeling better about being stuck on 2021.31.103.

My software version says v10.2 (2021.36.8).

 

[Dameon]

Can you try restarting the 12V? Open the frunk with the app. Take off the central piece of plastic above the storage bin by pulling from the sides. You'll feel some clips disengage; it's fine (I've done it a dozen+ times without breaking anything). Disconnect the fireman's loop near the battery by pulling the red tab backwards then pushing on where the tab was. Pop up the green tab on the battery using something hard like a metal credit card, then pull on the black part of the connector to the left. Whole thing should come right off and you'll hear the car turn off completely. Then just do it in reverse order and see if your MCU comes up.

If the MCU is truly dead (which was my issue, but not necessarily Gandalf's issue), the app will not work to pop the frunk... but the fob should work fine.

When I presented my situation to my Tesla SM, he suggested leaving the 12v battery disconnected for at least 10 minutes for total drain.

 

[Dameon]

My software version says v10.2 (2021.36.8).

Wow, what firmware version are you on? I'm feeling better about being stuck on 2021.31.103.

I'm skeptical that this is a firmware related issue... it could be, but this reeks more of a native Linux issue where it is having a hard time dealing with a potentially corrupt filesystem on an attached device. That's not to say a future release won't change the behavior of filesystem mounting... which could account for timeouts on corrupt devices.

For what it's worth, I'm on 2021.36.5.1 and it claims it's the latest available (I'm in "beta" firmware mode).

 

[Dameon]

Oh, and as an additional note, my MCU has been behaving fine since I removed all USB devices. Specifically, the Sentry cam USB device.

 

[Gandalf0]

Oh, and as an additional note, my MCU has been behaving fine since I removed all USB devices. Specifically, the Sentry cam USB device.

I’m happy yours is working since pulling the USB devices, mine was working via the app all morning but just got in and everything is dead again. I left it unplugged from the charger last night to see if that might have been causing an issue but obviously not. My brother was at the service center and a tech told him they’ve replaced a few 2021 S computers so looks like I may need to have mine replaced as well.

 

[MayorMcCheese]

I’m happy yours is working since pulling the USB devices, mine was working via the app all morning but just got in and everything is dead again. I left it unplugged from the charger last night to see if that might have been causing an issue but obviously not. My brother was at the service center and a tech told him they’ve replaced a few 2021 S computers so looks like I may need to have mine replaced as well.

Mine is being replaced now. We'll see if it clears it up.