Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

2022 Model X - Interior Noise / Rattling / Crackling

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Well, I took the speaker grill off of my $140k car and fixed a rattle. Took a literal 3 minutes and problem solved.
Seems less painful thing to try this than all the lawyer mess. Don't get me wrong, I can't stand rattles.... it took me a week to figure out what was rattling. But now it's fixed, I'm happy.

I had this one too. In my case it was the emergency release cable rattling against the speaker bracket.
 
I had the squeaking on the c pillar that sounds like someone is making a balloon animal. Took it to the SC and they tried lining with felt tape the first time but it didn’t work. 2nd time finally fixed by moving the strike plate. No charge. This was maybe 4 months after car was purchased.

BDFB47F3-4D68-4464-B614-866DDF8555D2.jpeg
57E1B3CB-20E8-49A8-9FD2-63D85C20692A.jpeg
 
I had the squeaking on the c pillar that sounds like someone is making a balloon animal. Took it to the SC and they tried lining with felt tape the first time but it didn’t work. 2nd time finally fixed by moving the strike plate. No charge. This was maybe 4 months after car was purchased.

View attachment 883697View attachment 883698

First, the door can't be raised with the striker. The FWD striker is in the body below the door sill. It only adjusts left/right and in/out.

The latch on the door can be adjusted left/right and up/down. To move the door up with latch/striker adjustment, you must adjust the latch, not the striker.

This adjustment they said they did is far from complete. Assuming the vertical alignment with the front door and a pillar was good on the left and the vertical alignment with the rear quarter panel and liftgate on the right (assuming drivers side), then when they lifted the door slightly, they messed up this alignment. Now if the FWD was already too low compared to the a-pillar/front door and lift/quarter panel, then maybe they improved it. If it was already good before, then it isn't now.

At the very least, if they moved the door up, then they also needed to adjust the roof mounted bump stops otherwise the weight of the door is not resting on the roof frame and is instead weight on the latch only.

Please see Technical Service Document TN-16-11-002.

Can you post a picture of the door the said they adjusted that includes a little bit of the surrounding panels (i.e. a-pillar next to FWD, front door at the rear of it, and some of the rear quarter panel (including liftgate edge at the roof)?
 
I've got a cracking noise when accelerating/decelerating from this area underneath the plastic kickplate and foam floor seen on the passenger side.

I haven't been able to get under the foam yet.

View attachment 885089
Crazy we get to spend 6 figures on cars we have to take apart to fix simply little annoyances like this that shouldn't be there. I applaud your persistence!
 
  • Like
Reactions: jiehan
Help me understand what we're looking at here?

What you see is where the interior condenser assembly meets the firewall to connect to the condensate drain tube on the other side of the firewall in the frunk area.

It's behind this mess indicated by the arrow in the following picture:

1671059036103.png



I've already checked the drain tube and it is clear of debris. I pity the technician that will have to diagnose this, I imagine they might have to pull the A/C condenser out to fix it.

Just replacing the drain tube requires removal of the HV battery, lol.


1671059164883.png


This is my temporary fix until they can get to it after next week:

1671059249874.png
 
I'm continuing the fight to find this ****ing cracking noise. Here is a wonderful video showing the noise:


It seems to be coming from within this small cavity here:

View attachment 885390

I've taken the entire wheel well apart to see what's on the other side...


View attachment 885391
Oh, I have this sound too. I thought it was the glove box. SC keeps saying “unable to replicate” and I’ve given up. Would love to know if you figure it out.
 
Oh, I have this sound too. I thought it was the glove box. SC keeps saying “unable to replicate” and I’ve given up. Would love to know if you figure it out.
I have a buddy that has had 7 service appointments to fix this noise and they have not yet been able to 😭

The fix was found. I believe they jammed a bunch of goo/glue into the pinch weld as shown:

1672346125549.png


Service ticket shows the following:
Found location of noise complaint. Pinch weld / rivet was causing a creaking noise. Per article 28672 area was insulated to noise and is no longer present.

I can confirm the noise is no longer present.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sorka and tiznanya