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(21 Plaid) Something is popping when my wheel turns or the car moves at low speeds.
- Thread starter M4H4X
- Start date
THX723
Member
Does not seem like a mount issue. Possibly control arm was not adequately pre-loaded before it was bolted down, or less likely the tolerance of the rubber bushing within the control arm is too tight (production variation?).
Before moving forward with a possible fix, do you think you can first verify Viperguy's finding by taking a video at the lower control-arm to chassis interface, while working the steering as before?
I was able to take pic of mine from a front 3/4-angle approach.
I pushed my service appointment out to the 25th--but really it's pushed out until further notice because it's officially too cold to drive on the summer tires in North Texas at the moment. (20-25 degrees each morning for the next 10 days at least)
I felt underneath the car with my hands while the wife subtly steered it (on the ground with the wheels on.) I kind of felt a bit of a vibration in the forward lower control arm mount, but it was very subtle and hard to feel.
So I put the car in the air and took the wheel off. Giving some subtle jerks to the wheel, could not reproduce the vibration in the air without the car's weight on the wheel. So I took a rubber mallet and dinged around on the suspension components, the only one that would creak when I hit it (and it only did it once) was the forward lower control arm again. So I checked the torque on the bolts and none of them were extremely loose. I do not know if they were up to spec, because I do not know what the spec is but they were at least not hand loose.
So it could be that lower control arm that we've been beating around the bush over, or it could still be the rack and pinion steering. I just do not know at this point. I'm curious if the techs will even be able to find it. It's going to take a professional with experience to nail it down.
Here are a few pictures that point to the lower control arm forward piece that I am referring to as well as the possible joint where my noise *might* be coming from.
Again, at this point I don't feel like this is a safety issue, just an annoyance. The suspension components look beefy and well designed. I feel like this is just one of those bugs that no one could have known about until they mass produced the cars. Probably related to a manufacturer process tolerance with one of the joints.
So I put the car in the air and took the wheel off. Giving some subtle jerks to the wheel, could not reproduce the vibration in the air without the car's weight on the wheel. So I took a rubber mallet and dinged around on the suspension components, the only one that would creak when I hit it (and it only did it once) was the forward lower control arm again. So I checked the torque on the bolts and none of them were extremely loose. I do not know if they were up to spec, because I do not know what the spec is but they were at least not hand loose.
So it could be that lower control arm that we've been beating around the bush over, or it could still be the rack and pinion steering. I just do not know at this point. I'm curious if the techs will even be able to find it. It's going to take a professional with experience to nail it down.
Here are a few pictures that point to the lower control arm forward piece that I am referring to as well as the possible joint where my noise *might* be coming from.
Again, at this point I don't feel like this is a safety issue, just an annoyance. The suspension components look beefy and well designed. I feel like this is just one of those bugs that no one could have known about until they mass produced the cars. Probably related to a manufacturer process tolerance with one of the joints.
Man… reading this thread, if you folks with so much knowledge of the mechanics of the car can’t figure it out, the rest of us are screwed if this happens to us…
THX723
Member
I'm not surprised you weren't able to replicate the noise with the car jacked up. The suspension needs to be pre-loaded. If you have the car on jack stands, then you can pre-load the suspension with a jack under the main lower control arm, where the strut is attached. Hitting it will not generate the noise either. It needs to pivot about its rotational axis. Really the easiest way to document this is to have the car sitting on the ground (as you already know) and place a camera down there, while working the steering.
I agree this isn't safety critical, but could be a long term wear concern as the attachment points (sleeves) are moving in place of the bushings.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
Greeney
2023 MSP Black/Black/Yoke
They say they fixed it on my car, I will upload the service resolution once I pick up the car!
I actually heard this noise today. It was after raising the suspension to very high for a bit to install the terrible OEM mud flaps. This is VERY common on BMWs when the a-arms/suspension components are tightened while the car is on a body lift, especially with air suspension. For BMW, it is imperative that you set the suspension height to medium, then lift the car via the wheels or a drive on lift when tightening suspension components (IE the car is off the ground, but the weight is on all 4 wheels rather than lifting via the body). So either a drive on lift or it is put on blocks.
I wonder if during assembly they are tightening suspension components with the car lifted via the body and wheels dangling? If I get that pop again I'll lift it and put the tires on blocks and loosen/retighten the suspension components. Does Tesla give out torque values?
I wonder if during assembly they are tightening suspension components with the car lifted via the body and wheels dangling? If I get that pop again I'll lift it and put the tires on blocks and loosen/retighten the suspension components. Does Tesla give out torque values?
Greeney
2023 MSP Black/Black/Yoke
So I’ve driven the car a bit and it seems corrected… Here’s what the service center said.
THX723
Member
Thanks for the update @Greeney
@M4H4X, might be worth it to check if the bolts holding your bash plate(s) are also not fully torqued down. You'll need to take off the plastic under tray to see em. Here's a point of reference from the previous gen S.
There are three main parts: a forward-mounted Skid Bar (green), a stamped titanium Bash Plate (black) and an extruded aluminum Bash Plate (yellow).
@M4H4X, might be worth it to check if the bolts holding your bash plate(s) are also not fully torqued down. You'll need to take off the plastic under tray to see em. Here's a point of reference from the previous gen S.
There are three main parts: a forward-mounted Skid Bar (green), a stamped titanium Bash Plate (black) and an extruded aluminum Bash Plate (yellow).
Just got my car back from Tesla (2/6/22) with the same issue. They told me that it caused by the brakes when going slowly and would never happen above 5mph. They provided no fix for the clicking, the panel gaps in the trunk, nor the drivers window outside gasket. They fixed 0 out of 3 problems that I brought it in for. I was told that all of the Tesla Plaids make this noise and that all of the Tesla Plaids have trunks that are misaligned and can't be fixed. I have videos of the clicking noise at 15, 30 and 60 mph, so clearly not caused by the brakes. Not real reassuring. I guess the clicking is a noise in my head.
Greeney, how has that repair worked for you? I am getting the run around at the dealership. The sound is getting worse and worse and at all speeds now.
Greeney
2023 MSP Black/Black/Yoke
Wildcat
Member
Hey killer_model_s: I have the exact same issue as you are reporting. Have you taken it in to Tesla Service? I have an appt on 2/15 and will report back.
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