Many Thanks all for the comments. I spent some more time with the car yesterday with some other friends (who are clever and work in the auto industry). I have now pulled both the 16GB SanDisk MicroSD card (which has two "Linux" (etx3) partitions on it) and seems to be just the SatNav stuff, and more importantly, the standard 4GB (unbranded) SD card with lots of interesting "car" stuff on it.
From the card, I can see lots of DTC codes (which isn't a good sign), but currently, haven't found a resource/way to find out what the codes mean/refer to. On the card I can see the logs, but they are in binary, so can figure out no way to "decode" them to read them (you presumably need a tool that only Tesla have for that). I can see a copy of the firmware and some other car config files and a UDS log file which looks like was created when the car was last at Tesla for diags (it's out of warranty, so all they will say is "the MCU is the "wrong" one for the car and they can't get any logs off of it (not sure I believe the 2nd part), and that the car needs a new main battery pack (not sure about that yet either)). The car was originally a "Cat D" (economic) write off, fixed, put back on the road, sold at auction, and has been happy for the year or so and 3000 miles driven since. Supercharging and Fast Charging was working, until a few weeks ago (not sure if that's part of the whole "Tesla turning off ex-salvage fast charging" thing, or part of the actual problem).
Based on the cost of the above, we're trying to see what we can figure out what the problem really is, as the owner doesn't have GBP22k to spend on fixing the car. I have to say, the MCU has shown zero of the usual signs of imminent failure, and the car has clearly not been powered up much of it's life, at 6 years old and 19,000 miles (though I do wonder if there is battery pack problems due to the fact it must have spent too much of it's life sitting idle). A very cheuqered history for this car, to be sure.
We've got the kit for "Scan my Tesla" on order, so we can have a look at the battery cell stuff, and yesterday we got onto the CAN bus via the daig port with a home made CAN tool and wiring. A mate is going to write a Windows app to read the data coming from the CAN to work with the specific CAN adapter he already has, so we can hopefully start reading the info that way also.
One other thing, I am wondering if the problem is coolant flow/pack temp related, as it will charge on a 3-pin (240v) UK plug for a couple of minutes (at about 5 amps, even if you select 9/10A), before saying charge complete, if the car has been standing. After that, if you try again, you get a few seconds of charge before it says charge complete. We managed to get 2 miles of range into it (from 10 miles to 12
) yesterday, by repeated plugging/unplugging (which clearly isn't the answer).
To answer the question, he did have charge scheduling turned on, but I turned it off last week when we started trying to figure out this problem.
I've not heard of Pin2drive, I'll do some digging on that one.
The car did say the pack was cold (and has the frost symbol on the screen), but it correctly reported the ambient as 18 degC. Does that sound normal? I can hear the coolant pump spin up when it is charging (though it's quite "whiney" and sounds quite small), and spin down again when "Charging complete" appears on the screen.
Cheers,
Matt.
