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220 NEMA Adapter vs. Tesla Wall Unit - Thoughts? Just ordered a Model Y Performance for delivery July-August

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The voltage is 240.

NEMA stands for National Electrical Manufacturers Association, and there are many plug types. Do you mean NEMA 14-50 for the 240v 50a four prong plug commonly used with RVs?

The Tesla Wall Connector is definitely recommended but not required. Tell us more about your expected daily driving and what your parking situation is like. Also what kind of home power do you have? A picture of your breaker box would be helpful.
 
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You can get 23 miles per hour of charge with NEMA 1450. When using a Tesls wall connector you get 44 miles per hour of charge.
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Lots of info in this thread:
 
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220 NEMA Adapter vs. Tesla Wall Unit - Thoughts? Just ordered a Model Y Performance for delivery July-August 2022. New to EV Car ownership
The main advantage to owning a Tesla Wall Unit is the charging speed, which speed is entirely useless if you charge at night as do 90% of Tesla owners, and probably useless to many who charge in the daytime. I have used a 220-volt outlet in my garage for ten years, which outlet cost me less than $20 at The Home Depot. My car is always full every morning, the same as if I used a "Wall Unit", but the difference is that I saved a bunch of money and bought something else I needed, like a new string trimmer. NOBODY NEEDS a wall unit. Not trying to cut into Tesla's profits, but it's just not necessary.

My car came with all the adapters, so there is that extra charge I didn't have, but really, truly, you don't need the Tesla Wall Unit.
 
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The main advantage to owning a Tesla Wall Unit is the charging speed, which speed is entirely useless if you charge at night as do 90% of Tesla owners, and probably useless to many who charge in the daytime. I have used a 220-volt outlet in my garage for ten years, which outlet cost me less than $20 at The Home Depot. My car is always full every morning, the same as if I used a "Wall Unit", but the difference is that I saved a bunch of money and bought something else I needed, like a new string trimmer. NOBODY NEEDS a wall unit. Not trying to cut into Tesla's profits, but it's just not necessary.

My car came with all the adapters, so there is that extra charge I didn't have, but really, truly, you don't need the Tesla Wall Unit.


There are most definitely use cases for a full power wall connector. But they are rare. I personally have had multiple days this year that I could have benefitted from higher charging rate while parked at home during a busy day running long errands. Two days I ended up at the house an extra hour each time, and another day I had to go to a Supercharger on my return trip. Being able to charge at 48A instead of 32A would have certainly made a difference. But I guess living in California with Superchargers everywhere you don't worry about such things. In Arkansas the nearest Supercharger is 30 miles away.

The cost benefits of using a mobile connector have dramatically shrank. Especially now considering it's not even included anymore.

All that said, my brother in law has driven a Leaf for something like 8 years using almost exclusively 15A charging at home.
 
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There are most definitely use cases for a full power wall connector. But they are rare. I personally have had multiple days this year that I could have benefitted from higher charging rate while parked at home during a busy day running long errands. Two days I ended up at the house an extra hour each time, and another day I had to go to a Supercharger on my return trip. Being able to charge at 48A instead of 32A would have certainly made a difference. But I guess living in California with Superchargers everywhere you don't worry about such things. In Arkansas the nearest Supercharger is 30 miles away.

The cost benefits of using a mobile connector have dramatically shrank. Especially now considering it's not even included anymore.

All that said, my brother in law has driven a Leaf for something like 8 years using almost exclusively 15A charging at home.

I wouldn't waste your time. roblab posts the same thing ad nauseum all across the forum while ignoring the myriad reasons presented about potential benefits and the minimal price differences in the recent environment. I use a 14-50 too, but if I was doing it today I'd absolutely go wall connector. As you point out, with the UMC no longer included total cost is now probably equivalent, possibly even slightly favoring a wall connector.
 
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(old answer)
The outlet may seem cheaper at first thought, but it has about $200-$300 of EXTRA material costs to set up and install and use it that the wall connector doesn't need. So subtracting that from the cost of the wall connector at $495, and it's only about $200 more real price to do the wall connector. And doing that provides you with an actual extra charging device.

But that was the old answer. Now that new orders of Tesla cars WON'T include the mobile connector, you are going to have that $200-$300 extra to set up the outlet, PLUS the $275 just to buy the mobile connector cable, which is over $500 now. So at $495, getting the wall connector instead is now literally CHEAPER outright than trying to set up and use an outlet.
 
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I wouldn't waste your time. roblab posts the same thing ad nauseum all across the forum while ignoring the myriad reasons presented about potential benefits and the minimal price differences in the recent environment.
Not everyone's use cases are 100% identical to that of a rich boomer white guy in Napa, but let's be honest, they should be. There is a right way and a wrong way and we'd be in quite the pickle If we didn't have good 'ol Rob to mansplain to us which is which.
 
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I think the only reason to do a 14-50 outlet now is if you intend to use that circuit for other things as well. Like a welder or an RV or something.
One of the reasons I went with 14-50 is cuz I thought my next EV might not be a Tesla. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I'm guessing I could use my 14-50 for a Nissan Leaf or a Polestar 2 or an i4 or...
 
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One of the reasons I went with 14-50 is cuz I thought my next EV might not be a Tesla. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I'm guessing I could use my 14-50 for a Nissan Leaf or a Polestar 2 or an i4 or...

I had a similar thought, but I'd just sell the Tesla wall connector and install some high powered J1772 box.

At this point for me I'm willing to just spend money and make things as seamlessly convenient as I can.
 
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One of the reasons I went with 14-50 is cuz I thought my next EV might not be a Tesla. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I'm guessing I could use my 14-50 for a Nissan Leaf or a Polestar 2 or an i4 or...
Still not a good reason to go with an outlet. There is so much touchy expensive extra B.S. that goes with doing an outlet, that it's more trouble than it's worth. As @LoudMusic said, if you think you'll change in the future, either get a J1772 station now, or it's very easy in the future to sell the Tesla one and replace it with a J1772 one whenever you need to for about straight across money.
 
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Still not a good reason to go with an outlet. There is so much touchy expensive extra B.S. that goes with doing an outlet, that it's more trouble than it's worth. As @LoudMusic said, if you think you'll change in the future, either get a J1772 station now, or it's very easy in the future to sell the Tesla one and replace it with a J1772 one whenever you need to for about straight across money.
What sort of "touchy expensive" stuff?
 
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What sort of "touchy expensive" stuff?
The big one is that they must use a GFCI breaker, and they are STUPID expensive. Here is an Eaton Cutler-Hammer one for a 240V 50A circuit that a 14-50 receptacle would use.

It's $163.76. Hard wired devices can use a normal breaker that's 20 or 30 dollars. Now pick your jaw up off the floor, and I'll continue, because the other stuff isn't quite so bad.

Receptacle that's not the junk Leviton one. Any of the Cooper, Bryant, or Hubbell ones are good and solid, and they'll be about $40 to $60 or so.

Outlet box and face plate is going to be another $10 or so?

Buying the plug adapter for the charging cable from Tesla for whatever outlet type you are going to install: $45

Some kind of mounting hanger or hook or bracket is another $20 to $25ish?

And this may or may not apply, but a lot of people are set on the 14-XX type of outlets. Those require a neutral wire, and copper is getting pretty expensive if you have a longer run. The hard wired charging devices are 240V only so do not use a neutral wire, so that can save some cost possibly.

That covers the expensive part. The thing that's "touchy" is still that dang GFCI breaker. People have reported high frequency of problems with the mobile charging cable's ground test giving false trips of the GFCI breaker. It's this finesse little dance of how good the tolerances of the breaker are, and if it drifts a bit out of spec in a few years, which is pretty common, and then the twitchy nuisance trips start.
 
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The big one is that they must use a GFCI breaker, and they are STUPID expensive. Here is an Eaton Cutler-Hammer one for a 240V 50A circuit that a 14-50 receptacle would use.

It's $163.76. Hard wired devices can use a normal breaker that's 20 or 30 dollars. Now pick your jaw up off the floor, and I'll continue, because the other stuff isn't quite so bad.

Receptacle that's not the junk Leviton one. Any of the Cooper, Bryant, or Hubbell ones are good and solid, and they'll be about $40 to $60 or so.

Outlet box and face plate is going to be another $10 or so?

Buying the plug adapter for the charging cable from Tesla for whatever outlet type you are going to install: $45

Some kind of mounting hanger or hook or bracket is another $20 to $25ish?

And this may or may not apply, but a lot of people are set on the 14-XX type of outlets. Those require a neutral wire, and copper is getting pretty expensive if you have a longer run. The hard wired charging devices are 240V only so do not use a neutral wire, so that can save some cost possibly.

That covers the expensive part. The thing that's "touchy" is still that dang GFCI breaker. People have reported high frequency of problems with the mobile charging cable's ground test giving false trips of the GFCI breaker. It's this finesse little dance of how good the tolerances of the breaker are, and if it drifts a bit out of spec in a few years, which is pretty common, and then the twitchy nuisance trips start.
Excellent info ... thank you.
 
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