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2202 MYP tow connector DOA?

Are there any tricks to getting the 7-pin trailer lighting/brake connector to work?

Tried with and without tow mode. With known-good trailer, test device and multimeter. No lights and no voltage measured at the connector.

Tesla service gave me a pigtail with zero guidance. Told me it was my problem as they don't support third party trailers. I get it - that's not the issue.

Local service manager is not helpful.

This is clearly a warranty issue. Any suggestions how to get through Tesla's useless app to speak with a human who might be able to help?

Very disappointed that an electric car company has service techs who don't appear to understand simple 12v electronics.
 
I have a March 2022 MY, LR, with the factory tow package The Auxillary 12v pin on the 7 pin connector has no signal. My brake lights and turn signals work. But, the brake controller isn’t powered.

I have the Prodigy RF controller. The manufacturer says all their brake controllers need the 12v auxiliary pin functional.

Once Tesla has a retrofit for the Auxiliary 12 v pin, you should be good. There are videos on YouTube that show installing the Prodigy P3.

From my other post on this topic…

I found a couple of articles published in Jan that say Tesla disabled it when they put in the Li-Ion battery this year. There’s supposed to be a retrofit mid 22.

Service isn’t familiar, so I elevated to a manager to research. Stay tuned…

I’ve cancelled two trips an sunk hours troubleshooting and researching.

Here are a couple of articles…

Trailer 12V auxiliary power disabled in recent tow hitch-equipped Model Ys due to upgraded 12V Li-Ion battery

New Tesla Model 3/Y Refresh Leaves Owners Without Trailer Auxiliary Power Capability
 
I sent an email to the Indy Service team last night and today’s response was they are working on it since there are a lot of folks with the same issue it is a high priority. No date for the fix.

My MY was manufactured in mid March. My tow hitch was not factory installed, but installed in the Indy service center in mid-June. From what I can tell, my car is one of the first to experience this problem in the Indy area. I’m wondering if the factory vs service center installed hitch accounts for partially working 7-pin connectors?

My 7-pin connector is completely disabled…no break light, turn signal lights, or power (my trailer uses 4-pin so not an issue).

I’m glad to see more posts on this topic since I first looked back in June. I was concerned that I was one of a few folks actually using the hitch to tow a trailer instead of bikes on a bike rack.
 
12v system doesn’t send power to 7 pin needed for trailer brakes.

Tesla service Rocklin is working with corporate on this. The latest update I got was there’ll be a wiring harness retrofit and software.

There are a few of us waiting for the fix.

I’ve cancelled trips, borrowed trucks, pumped $100s into gas tanks after buying this functionality. I’m trying to be patient.
 
I seem to be having the same problem with my June Model Y. No detectable power to any pins on the 7-pin connector. I have a service appt next week but now I am wondering if there is any point in taking the car in and wasting a half day minimum if there really isn't anything they can do. I have messaged back and forth with the service tech and he doesn't seem to know anything about this as an ongoing issue.

Half the threads I have read seem to say that the brakes and blinkers were not affected by the Li-ion 12v (actually 15.5v) battery change, and the other half claim that none of the pins are working. I'm still confused.
 
Update: I had my car in for service. The car was there from 9:00 am till 5:30 pm for the trailer connector problem as well as a problem with the horn which I thought would be an easy fix. The horn only honks if I push on the right side of the horn mechanism. Neither problem was fixed. The service team didn't seem to know anything about a system-wide problem with the trailer connector and tried replacing "Module - Body Controller - LH", but that didn't fix the problem. The Tech said the next step would be to remove lots of stuff to examine the wire harnesses involved from the rear connector to wherever they go (I assume the front of the car). I didn't want him to start tearing my car apart until this problem gets more attention and maybe a known fix. So I am stuck with a trailer hitch I can't use potentially for months to come. Kinda frustrating.
 

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