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220V charging (technical) question
- Thread starter jordanthompson
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- Roadster
kevincwelch
Active Member
Jordan- Awesome news. makes me more comfortable about getting the Model S and moving forward with the electrical upgrades to the garage.
NigelM
Recovering Member
@Jordan - Great news. KC is also relatively new, came from BMW, but sounds like you experienced true Tesla service.
W.Petefish
Active Member
vbsdan
Member
I was having some really strange charging problems after I moved into my newly remodeled building. Got all of the following errors intermittently: "Line OverCurrent Fault", "Line voltage lost sync or overfrequency fault", and "DMC FW: HCS Faulted Warning". This was with a NEMA 14-50 receptacle on a 50 amp circuit in a building with all new wiring. The car would charge fine at my old house with a NEMA 14-50, or at 120v at the new place. Did a little troubleshooting, turned off all of the other circuit breakers and the car charged fine. Turned the breakers back on one at a time until I started seeing the errors again. Bottom line, believe it or not it was the power supple for my laptop computer that was causing the problem. It was completely repeatable, as soon as I plugged the laptop in the errors started. I just happened to have another identical power supply for the laptop and with it there are no charging errors.
The Roadster is a little fussy about its power input. That said, your laptop's power supply must be generating a LOT of hash.
I thought I had this problem fixed and behind me, but it has been rearing its ugly head again!
I've been having problems charging my car lately and Tesla has been pointing the finger at FP&L... I had them (FP&L) put a logger on my line outside the house last week. They picked it up on Friday and reported that they had a 250V surge for 45 seconds (on a 240V two-phase line). They said that anything up to 252V is acceptable by their standards. I know that seems like a lot, but it is less than a 5% variation, so maybe its not so bad. We don't have any issues with other appliances in the house.
The car had been charging fine for over a month. It went to Dania Beach to get a new windshield (got a chip in it) and the A/C fan shroud update. Ever since, will not charge completely at 240V without shutting itself down. Granted they had the car over a week and we are further into the warmer days of summer (so our home A/C's are probably working a little harder than they had been, possibly putting a simultaneous load on the power line) but it seems a little strange to me that it was working fine, went away and now does not work right anymore.
At Tesla's suggestion, I tried charging at 120V and actually tripped a breaker. When I first got the car (a few months ago) my UMC did not work at all, and the only way I could charge it was via the same 120V line (which worked 100% of the time.)
Anyway, the folks at Dania Beach are going to give me another UMC to try (they say that some UMC's are more sensitive than others) and I am going to get another UMC adapter (the one that fits "older dryers") so I can try it at a friends house and put this problem to bed for once and for all.
I've been having problems charging my car lately and Tesla has been pointing the finger at FP&L... I had them (FP&L) put a logger on my line outside the house last week. They picked it up on Friday and reported that they had a 250V surge for 45 seconds (on a 240V two-phase line). They said that anything up to 252V is acceptable by their standards. I know that seems like a lot, but it is less than a 5% variation, so maybe its not so bad. We don't have any issues with other appliances in the house.
The car had been charging fine for over a month. It went to Dania Beach to get a new windshield (got a chip in it) and the A/C fan shroud update. Ever since, will not charge completely at 240V without shutting itself down. Granted they had the car over a week and we are further into the warmer days of summer (so our home A/C's are probably working a little harder than they had been, possibly putting a simultaneous load on the power line) but it seems a little strange to me that it was working fine, went away and now does not work right anymore.
At Tesla's suggestion, I tried charging at 120V and actually tripped a breaker. When I first got the car (a few months ago) my UMC did not work at all, and the only way I could charge it was via the same 120V line (which worked 100% of the time.)
Anyway, the folks at Dania Beach are going to give me another UMC to try (they say that some UMC's are more sensitive than others) and I am going to get another UMC adapter (the one that fits "older dryers") so I can try it at a friends house and put this problem to bed for once and for all.
Jordan,
Have you seen this thread?
Florida Power & Light (FPL) would like our assistance
If after you try another UMC and the problem persists, I suggest that you use that email address to ask them to look into the problem. That email address will go to the group at FPL that specializes in EV related issues.
Good luck.
Larry
I sent them an email as soon as I saw it last week, thanks. I don't remember if I mentioned that they set up a logger on my house.
Yeah, a few things they don't mention in the manual:
1. Most 110V outlets are 15A, and are rated for 12A continuous. The higher power ones have that extra horizontal slot on one side of the plug.
2. The Roadster defaults to 15A continuous when you use the 110V cable.
3. When you plug in the car on most outlets, you should dial back the current to 12A.
4. If you have anything else running on the circuit at the same time, the breaker will probably pop.
Do "most" of your outlets look like this?
If not, then they aren't 20A.
Usually I only see these things in the kitchen.
mitch672
Active Member
Many residential houses are wired with 14AWG wire, and daisy chained to multiple rooms, of course to meet code, they must use 15A breakers.
Commercial buildings usually have 20A outlets on 12AWG wiring.. Some newer homes are wired with 20A receptacles, an 15A for lighting circuits.
Commercial buildings usually have 20A outlets on 12AWG wiring.. Some newer homes are wired with 20A receptacles, an 15A for lighting circuits.
Tesla 940
Member
I've had trouble with my UMC lately. It gets very warm and apparently trips the breaker inside the unit. The charger port door ring is RED. It has been extremely warm here in So. Cal. lately and the plug is located on top of the "ties". This has never been a problem before. I waited for things to cool down and then hit the reset button and it worked but I noticed the same thing last night. Forgot about it and did not check it late last night (after it cools down a little) or this morning.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
Hi Jordan,
As I mentioned these folks are assigned to deal specifically with EV issues. They may be more motivated to research the issue than the typical FPL complaint crew.
To clarify, when you emailed them did you state you were having difficulties charging your car, and did you report that FPL recorded a 4.2% overvoltage?
Larry
NigelM
Recovering Member
Talk to your Service Manager. Same thing happened to me early this year and it turned out to be a UMC fault.
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