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24 Hours of Driving Electric - Apparently, we weren't ready!

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So, after driving pretty slow on the highway and taking some flatter back roads (my wife commented she had never seen me so happy to see the speed limit drop to 25 before), we made it home with 2 miles of range left.

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It was a bit nerve wracking, but at least we made it and the car got a good charge overnight. ...

FWIW, someone actually hit 0 -- and got the necessary 4-5 miles at ~ 20 - 40 mph to get home. While I wouldn't count on that in everyday planning, apparently there is a "reserve tank" in the sub-zero range!
 
Besides the mold release, check the tire pressures (with a good gauge such as 50406 or 50404). Some folks have found that they were still set to the transport pressure (~90 psi). While I don't like the pressures to be very low, that's a bit high and could certainly cause the floating and lack of traction that you've experienced.

Also, at least on the demo cars, there is a limiter for the hatch that will stop the hatch from opening more than the set amount. It's controlled from buttons on the hatch.
 
Congrats but sorry about that spoiler. Great pics by the way! I have experience with carbon fiber bikes but not car spoilers. You can check the forums on road bike web sites such as roadbikereview.com for ideas on fixing CF dings. Probably something like some epoxy to fill the gap and immobilize the splinters. They make carbon fiber chainstay protectors for bikes with adhesive on the back which might help some with the aesthetics. You could trim a small piece to cover up the ding.
 
FWIW, someone actually hit 0 -- and got the necessary 4-5 miles at ~ 20 - 40 mph to get home. While I wouldn't count on that in everyday planning, apparently there is a "reserve tank" in the sub-zero range!

Yup, found that out later, but it was good to know we could make it. The alternate plan was to stop at my office (which is about 6 miles from home) and leave the car charging on a 110 there and take the now-parked A6 the rest of the way home. We figured, screw it, let's go for it.

Besides the mold release, check the tire pressures (with a good gauge such as 50406 or 50404). Some folks have found that they were still set to the transport pressure (~90 psi). While I don't like the pressures to be very low, that's a bit high and could certainly cause the floating and lack of traction that you've experienced.

Also, at least on the demo cars, there is a limiter for the hatch that will stop the hatch from opening more than the set amount. It's controlled from buttons on the hatch.

Yup, checked the pressures and they were 43 and 41 on the other three (it's supposed to be 42), so no real issue there. I'm willing to bet it's just new tire slick.

Congrats but sorry about that spoiler. Great pics by the way! I have experience with carbon fiber bikes but not car spoilers. You can check the forums on road bike web sites such as roadbikereview.com for ideas on fixing CF dings. Probably something like some epoxy to fill the gap and immobilize the splinters. They make carbon fiber chainstay protectors for bikes with adhesive on the back which might help some with the aesthetics. You could trim a small piece to cover up the ding.

Sounds above my head :( I asked the guy who used to work on my cars and he's going to ask around for me. If not, it's not TOO unsightly, and the nail polish might work to dull the edges for now.
 
AO's story brings to light something I've noticed in the delivery threads. Why is Tesla delivering cars with less than a full charge? Every new car I've gotten has come with a full tank of gas which is much more expensive than the electricity required to top off the Model S. I will have to remember to specifically request that they deliver the car fully charged so I can go for a nice stress-free drive when mine is delivered.
 
AO's story brings to light something I've noticed in the delivery threads. Why is Tesla delivering cars with less than a full charge? Every new car I've gotten has come with a full tank of gas which is much more expensive than the electricity required to top off the Model S. I will have to remember to specifically request that they deliver the car fully charged so I can go for a nice stress-free drive when mine is delivered.

Probably after testing and transport, that's where we end up. Might be a bit more of a logistical nightmare to supercharge each car before loading. My wife and I discussed that too on the drive home heh.
 
Probably after testing and transport, that's where we end up. Might be a bit more of a logistical nightmare to supercharge each car before loading. My wife and I discussed that too on the drive home heh.

That, and remember that he has the older software which still has vampire load. It took several days to get his car home. I seem to notice a pattern that those receiving their cars (pre 4.0 update) after an extended truck ride are getting them with drained batteries (both the 12V and HV batt).


Congrats AO! I am so glad you jumped on that white with dark wheels combination. Looks awesome. Also can't believe your baby is already 8.5 months! Time is flying!!! No more Tesla onesies.
 
That, and remember that he has the older software which still has vampire load. It took several days to get his car home. I seem to notice a pattern that those receiving their cars (pre 4.0 update) after an extended truck ride are getting them with drained batteries (both the 12V and HV batt).

Vampire load seems the correct answer. I guess the timeline is:

- Charge the battery
- Install the battery
- Finish production (and maybe charge the battery again)
- Do the test drive
- Wait for the shipping date
- Transport the car
- Deliver the car.

We'll know for sure when cars with the 4.0 software get delivered (assuming the sleep mode is enabled).

Also I would guess that the original plan called for cars to be delivered to the service centres or stores first and they would charge them there before delivery. Taking delivery from the transporter doesn't allow for any prep work to be done.
 
Yeah that makes sense too as the DS had a checklist of stuff he did when the car came off. Taking off its cocoon, cleaning any areas, checking for damage etc. at the service center the next step likely would have been to plug in.

I'm ok with that though, as a service center stop likely would have meant a few more days before I got it.
 
Just curious, but when is the mold release finally worn off the tires? I have a loooong list of people who want to take my car for a spin, but I'd much rather prefer not letting anyone drive it until the tires have reached maximum grippiness!!

Depends on the road surface, but 300-500 miles will do it. At 500 miles you should check the wheel nut torque anyway. Also your tires will have a better chance of never having uneven wear if you perform the first rotation at about 1500 miles. The rest of the rotations are mostly so that all four tires will wear out at the same time (tires should be replaced in sets of four, unless the tires are different sizes front to rear).
 
Besides the mold release, check the tire pressures (with a good gauge such as 50406 or 50404). Some folks have found that they were still set to the transport pressure (~90 psi). While I don't like the pressures to be very low, that's a bit high and could certainly cause the floating and lack of traction that you've experienced.
The car will give you an overinflation warning above 51psi (that is the max cold pressure for the 21" Continental tires).
 
Why is Tesla delivering cars with less than a full charge?

I provided similar feedback after I got my delivery, and while part of it is certainly vampire drain, the other is that the fobs are close enough to cars in the cab of the truck that the cars stay even more active than normal. I suggested that the fobs have the batteries removed or that they be placed in a box that can block the signal. Not sure if they ever implemented that suggestion, but it seems like it would help. I also like the idea above of having chargers on Tesla owned vehicles doing maintenance charges. Maybe the of the tops of the covered carriers are large enough that solar panels could assist in that? Unlike our cars that are in garages, the carriers would be outside most of the time.
 
The car will give you an overinflation warning above 51psi (that is the max cold pressure for the 21" Continental tires).

Hopefully it only gives you that warning when the tires are cold then. There is no problem with hot tires exceeding the maximum cold inflation pressure--they are designed to do that.