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240 in the garage. cost?
- Thread starter Peelz
- Start date
M3BlueGeorgia
Active Member
Yes run the 6 gauge wire. You don't want to have to rerun the wire.
However, given you only have a 100A supply, I suggest using only 20A until you get that upgraded.
So start out with a 240v/20A breaker and a 6-20 outlet. It'll charge at around 14 mph.
If you find you need higher charging capacity, upgrade to a 200A panel and switch to a 6-50 outlet.
However, given you only have a 100A supply, I suggest using only 20A until you get that upgraded.
So start out with a 240v/20A breaker and a 6-20 outlet. It'll charge at around 14 mph.
If you find you need higher charging capacity, upgrade to a 200A panel and switch to a 6-50 outlet.
I'm pretty sure it's much more simple than you are thinking. It's just not necessary, and putting in the disconnect is two more sets of terminations of wires screwed into lugs, which is more potential problem/failure points in the connection chain where something may not be installed well or fastened in tight enough. It's more reliable to just have uninterrupted wire than going through the switch. With high current things, you just want as few junctions as possible.
I just had a new HVAC system installed at my home this month. The old gas furnace and AC compressor were over 35 years old. The AC compressor is wired to a 240V/30A circuit breaker. There was an old galvanized metal service disconnect box (badly rusted) mounted on the side of the house close by the AC compressor. The installer noted that he installed a new disconnect while connecting the new AC compressor. This is in Maryland.
Gauss Guzzler
Safety Score = 42
NEC 2017 requires a disconnect switch for chargers *over* 60A but some people misinterpret that to include 60A so Tesla is clarifying in case your electrician doesn't know. They're likely advising against it to discourage people from using inadequate switches or flipping them excessively.
- "625.43 Disconnecting Means. For equipment rated more than 60 amperes or more than 150 volts to ground, the disconnecting means shall be provided and installed in a readily accessible location. The disconnecting means shall be lockable open in accordance with 110.25."
Update:
I did call in the pros. lol And, being that my security cameras have just gone offline, they're installing it right now.
I asked about the 100 amp service vs charging at night at 32 max amps... no problem. I said id probably set the car to do it less, around 24.
6 gauge, 14-50, with 50 amp breaker. about 25 ft of wire.
quoted me "around 500" ill be pleased with that, definitely worth paying someone with knowledge to crawl in the attic and fish wires through the wall and between other high voltage wires
Im sure I could do it, but it would take forever and it would look like crap. Also, its a 50k dollar car, not a junky old dryer, which Ive wired before....
I did call in the pros. lol And, being that my security cameras have just gone offline, they're installing it right now.
I asked about the 100 amp service vs charging at night at 32 max amps... no problem. I said id probably set the car to do it less, around 24.
6 gauge, 14-50, with 50 amp breaker. about 25 ft of wire.
quoted me "around 500" ill be pleased with that, definitely worth paying someone with knowledge to crawl in the attic and fish wires through the wall and between other high voltage wires
Im sure I could do it, but it would take forever and it would look like crap. Also, its a 50k dollar car, not a junky old dryer, which Ive wired before....
This was the opinion of the electrician. I asked about maxing out the main breaker... he said MAAAYBE. if you run oven, ALL your lights, your air compressor, and the AC and charge the car ALL while you're running the hot tub(cheap kind not a big one)
Those scenarios wont happen.
Suppose I over-thought it, then over bought supplies for it. lol but It'll work. Plan was to have a friend do it for me while I help but I don't have time and my knowledge is maybe a half step above layman.
Being that is overbuilt, should we REALLY get into ev's, well maybe its ready for wall charger or something else that can pull more.
Again, after reading all the posts, which I appreciate, I think it was missed that I had already called pros to do it.
I'm told the mobile charger has one in it so I don't think so but I will find out when I get home. He did mention he didn't use the 50 I had bought to my wife but not why or what he replaced it with..
Started at 8, and They're all done already. see, wasn't that worth it? LOL I would have spent ALL DAY AT LEAST on it.
now I just need a damned car! hahhaahahahahah
Yeah, it's hard to wait...
Keep us posted on what you find when you get home and how you like it.
I am leaning towards the Wall Connector myself, and started a new thread here to compare costs vs the outlet option. I am really liking the WC option.
teslamotorsclub.com
Keep us posted on what you find when you get home and how you like it.
I am leaning towards the Wall Connector myself, and started a new thread here to compare costs vs the outlet option. I am really liking the WC option.
Wall Connector vs 14-50R Outlet Plus Mobile Connector
I'm giving some thought as to what to install for my future MY and am currently leaning towards the Wall connector. One of the reasons is I understand that an outlet install requires a GFCI breaker whereas the Wall connector does not. I put together the following cost differential (Lowes...
teslamotorsclub.com
The GFCI built into the Mobile Connector (Wall Connector too) is designed to protect the user when plugging and unplugging the charging connector from the vehicle's charging port. The GFCI circuit breaker, where required, provides protection when plugging and unplugging the NEMA 14-50 plug from the receptacle. (Turning off the power at the panel before plugging or unplugging the NEMA 14-50 plug from the receptacle is even safer, makes the GFCI circuit breaker of questionable benefit.)
the mobile charger will be plugged into the garage receptacle 99% of the time, and only used to charge the car every other day or 3 days. Then removed to take on trips(but even then Ill lean towards SC's) So thats what I was thinking.
Yeah, it's hard to wait...
Keep us posted on what you find when you get home and how you like it.
I am leaning towards the Wall Connector myself, and started a new thread here to compare costs vs the outlet option. I am really liking the WC option.
Wall Connector vs 14-50R Outlet Plus Mobile Connector
I'm giving some thought as to what to install for my future MY and am currently leaning towards the Wall connector. One of the reasons is I understand that an outlet install requires a GFCI breaker whereas the Wall connector does not. I put together the following cost differential (Lowes...
We may eventually go that way too. That was the advice I got that made me decide on 6 gauge and then the 14-50. Just thinking ahead. Id rather have too much, so if we DO upgrade we're ready.
but for now, learning the way of the EV, the included mobile charger will do for our lifestyle. She commutes 40 miles per day. wont need to charge outside of home often...
I look forward to that learning.
related side note, I went to just now purchase the 14-50 mobile adapter, and theyre out of stock LOL Guess its good I have at least a month to wait for the car.
And then there was more discussion about what it does and why that's of little benefit, which is all true. But I'm here to just tie up these loose ends, that the real reason is just because code requires it. That was added to code in 2017, that ANY outlet being installed for the purpose of EV charging must use a GFCI breaker. It's a stupid requirement, but it's there.
I've got a 100A panel, and charge (usually at night) at 40A (on a 50A circuit). No problem at all. Entire house draws less than 4A during the night hours (without A/C or charging). A/C would draw less than 20A.
well Iowa all but disavows the mere existence of EV's (At least teslas) so there isn't squat for that code. at least in my little town lol YET.
4 ft from the ground, no exposed cables.
Unless that's what he meant and went and got a GFCI. like I said, ill find out.
Thanks folks I appreciate all your insight.
That is irrelevant if Iowa likes or supports EVs. It's in the versions of NEC starting with the 2017 version, and guess what? Iowa has adopted an even newer version. They are on the 2020 release. So yeah--it's in there.
Learn where the National Electrical Code® (NEC®) is enforced. | NFPA
Discover which edition of the NFPA 70, National Electrical Code (NEC) is enforced in your state.
www.nfpa.org
What about NEMA 14-50 receptacles used for powering an RV, wouldn't it make sense to require a GFCI protected 14-50 receptacle to protect the operator of an RV when plugging in and unplugging a motorhome?
Yes, that absolutely would make more sense, which is why this requirement only for electric vehicles is ridiculously stupid and does not make sense.
I recall that the owner's manual for my ClipperCreek EVSE states that you should always turn off the power to the circuit whenever plugging in or unplugging the EVSE from the receptacle. I admit that I haven't always turned off the power at the panel when plugging/unplugging; the 14-50 receptacle is located inside my garage and I'm not standing in a puddle of water.
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