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25 min Tesla car wash with 4 gallons of water

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Every so often, I see posts with questions about the best way to wash your Tesla Model 3. Just thought I would share my preferred car wash routine for my 4-year-old 2018 Tesla P3D. Total wash time is 20-25 minutes and uses 4-5 gallons of water.

I basically do a rinsless wash using ONR or P and S Absolute. Materials used:

-Two buckets, each with a grit guard, 2 gallons of water, and 1-2 ounces of ONR.
-A Chapin 1-gallon garden sprayer, with 1 ounce of ONR mixed with 3/4 gallon of water.
-The "Gauntlet" drying towel from The Rag Company (my favorite drying towel on the market)
-Xtreme Solutions Topper (a ceramic-infused topper which I use as a drying aid, also my favorite on the market).
-Griots Garage Microfiber Wash Pad

I start at the top of the car and work my way down. If there is noticeable dirt or dust in the section I am working on, I first use the garden sprayer to pretreat the area by spraying it down with the ONR solution, let it dwell for 30 sec, and then do the normal rinseless wash. One bucket is my "rinse" bucket and the other is my "wash" bucket. Some people think using a two bucket with ONR is not necessary, but I think it is a good idea to further reduce the risks of inducing swirls.

After I wash a section with the ONR and wash pad, I then spray 1-2 sprays of Topper, and then dry with the Gauntlet towel. Topper adds a lot of slickness, gloss, and a boost of protection as you dry. I have tried at least 10 different drying aids and Topper is my absolute favorite.

My Tesla has been parked outside 24/7 for over 4 years. I have only done rinseless washes since I have owned the car. I have traditional car soap and a foam cannon, but they have sat in my garage unused.

Here are the final results:

IMG_4629.jpg
IMG_4634.jpg


For those of you interested, here are links to the products I used:





 
Great info, thanks.

Here's my trick for avoiding the need for two buckets and a grit guard:

Buy multiple wash pads (6?) and put them in the ONR bucket. Each goes from bucket to car, then into the bin for the laundry. That is, a pad never goes from the car back into the bucket. I actually use microfiber cloths instead of wash pads.

Another tip:

After cleaning with ONR, drive to a self-service car wash and spray on the wax cycle. Only takes 2 minutes and I've found the shine quite nice.
 
Thanks, Joe & Al. It’s always interesting to hear how people wash/detail their vehicles.
My process is similar to Joe’s, but with some distinct differences.

Tools:
- pump sprayer with a concentrated mix of ONR+distilled water
- bucket #1, with 1 gallon of ONR+tap water mixture, no grit guard
- bucket #2, with 1 gallon of just tap water and a grit guard
- wash mitt
- drying towel

1. I use the pump sprayer to lightly mist/coat the vehicle. For me, coating the entire vehicle with the pump sprayer consumes only about 1/2 liter (17 oz) of the ONR/water mixture. I break-up the work/coverage into separate sections to prevent the light mist from drying out before I finish that particular panel/section.
2. Then, I use a wash mitt (dipped in the bucket of ONR+tap water) to wipe & clean the entire panel/section. One side of the wash mitt is used to remove most if not all of the dirt. The other side of the mitt is use in a final pass to ensure the surface/panel is completely clean.
3. Put the ”dirty” wash mitt into bucket #2 (with the tap water and grit guard) and let it sit.
4. Use a drying towel to wipe & dry the panel.
5. Picking up from step #3, I rub the “dirty” wash mitt up against the grit guard to dislodge/remove most, if not all, the dirt particles.
6. Put the mostly cleaned wash mitt back into the bucket #1
7. Repeat above steps 1-6, with the next panel/section of the vehicle

It usually takes me around 30 minutes to do my entire vehicle. Always done inside my garage.

Additional notes:
- I never use Xtreme Solutions Topper as a drying aid… mainly because the hydrophobic properties of Topper will eventually prevent your drying towel from absorbing water as well as it should and thus reduce its effectiveness in drying a vehicle. Yes, I’m sure you can wash your drying towel with an appropriate cleaner to remove the Topper chemicals and restore the water absorbing/drying ability of the drying towel. However, I simply prefer not to have to add this additional washing step of my drying towels into my routine.
- So, I always use/apply Topper as a separate process after the vehicle is cleaned/dry, whenever I feel my vehicle needs a boost in gloss & slickness.
- On average, I perform the above quick wash procedure about once per week, and I apply Topper about 1 per month... not so much because my vehicle needs it, but because I just love the insane gloss & slickness that it adds!

And, here is the obligatory photo…. :cool:

9BDF14DE-505B-46C8-B5C2-D29CB9166D09.jpeg
 
I typically have my cars washed at local (reputable) hand wash places and I pay $30ish (plus tip) each time. However, I'm afraid to go to them with my Tesla. I was looking into buying what's needed to wash my car on my own recently and this is such a great start for me. Appreciate you guys. :)
You’re welcome. I think most folks, who wash their own vehicles ,do so because they genuinely enjoy the process (and of course the final results). It’s definitely not about saving money or time… at least not for me. However, the rinseless wash process that Joe and I described above is so simple, quick & inexpensive that anyone can do (and perhaps even enjoy) it.

Definitely give it a try and let us know what you think. Lots of YouTube videos out there with good/detailed instructions, if you need a little more information. Just search on “rinseless car wash”. Of course, you can also reach out to me or Joe, if you have any other questions.

Note: the rinseless wash is most effective (& safe to use) on vehicles that are lightly-to-moderately soiled. If your vehicle is really really dirty (as in it has not been washed for several weeks/months, or is coated with road debris/salt from a recent snow storm), then you should probably skip the rinseless process and use the more traditional rinse/wash with a garden hose/spray.
 
On a trip I went into an auto store and asked for Optimum No Rinse. They'd never heard of it.
Not surprising. Auto parts store employees are typically not detailing enthusiasts, and thus have very limited knowledge of all the various detailing products and techniques out there. By contrast, if you ask any detailing professional, they will definitely know Optimum No Rinse (ONR).
 
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Thanks, Joe & Al. It’s always interesting to hear how people wash/detail their vehicles.
My process is similar to Joe’s, but with some distinct differences.

Tools:
- pump sprayer with a concentrated mix of ONR+distilled water
- bucket #1, with 1 gallon of ONR+tap water mixture, no grit guard
- bucket #2, with 1 gallon of just tap water and a grit guard
- wash mitt
- drying towel

1. I use the pump sprayer to lightly mist/coat the vehicle. For me, coating the entire vehicle with the pump sprayer consumes only about 1/2 liter (17 oz) of the ONR/water mixture. I break-up the work/coverage into separate sections to prevent the light mist from drying out before I finish that particular panel/section.
2. Then, I use a wash mitt (dipped in the bucket of ONR+tap water) to wipe & clean the entire panel/section. One side of the wash mitt is used to remove most if not all of the dirt. The other side of the mitt is use in a final pass to ensure the surface/panel is completely clean.
3. Put the ”dirty” wash mitt into bucket #2 (with the tap water and grit guard) and let it sit.
4. Use a drying towel to wipe & dry the panel.
5. Picking up from step #3, I rub the “dirty” wash mitt up against the grit guard to dislodge/remove most, if not all, the dirt particles.
6. Put the mostly cleaned wash mitt back into the bucket #1
7. Repeat above steps 1-6, with the next panel/section of the vehicle

It usually takes me around 30 minutes to do my entire vehicle. Always done inside my garage.

Additional notes:
- I never use Xtreme Solutions Topper as a drying aid… mainly because the hydrophobic properties of Topper will eventually prevent your drying towel from absorbing water as well as it should and thus reduce its effectiveness in drying a vehicle. Yes, I’m sure you can wash your drying towel with an appropriate cleaner to remove the Topper chemicals and restore the water absorbing/drying ability of the drying towel. However, I simply prefer not to have to add this additional washing step of my drying towels into my routine.
- So, I always use/apply Topper as a separate process after the vehicle is cleaned/dry, whenever I feel my vehicle needs a boost in gloss & slickness.
- On average, I perform the above quick wash procedure about once per week, and I apply Topper about 1 per month... not so much because my vehicle needs it, but because I just love the insane gloss & slickness that it adds!

And, here is the obligatory photo…. :cool:

View attachment 906810

Your Model 3 looks fantastic, love that pinstriping.
 
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Actually the ONR rinse less wash works very well here in Wisconsin winters. I actually only use a gallon or gallon and a half if the car is really nasty. My process differs some though as I don’t use a wash mitt. I’ll have to add more details later. This car was ceramic coated when new in the spring of 2016 so that’s an advantage of course. The car now has 200,000 miles on it. It’s been maintained of course but it’s never been treated as a garage queen either.
 

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While I may use ONR in between, I expect I will have to do a full wash at some frequency as well. I plan to use a pressure washer and a foam cannon - NOT a foam gun.
  • I will rinse the car down with a pressure washer using higher gpm/lower pressure to get off as much as I can.
  • I will clear bugs and tar first using products specifically for that using a microfiber mitt.
  • I will clean wheels and tires using products specifically for that using a tire brush and a soft brush or microfiber mitt for wheel covers.
  • I will foam the entire car, and give it a few minutes.
  • Without rinsing, I will then contact wash the entire car with one bucket. I will use multiple microfiber towels, folded in quarters and flipping to present eight clean sides. I won't rinse and re-use towels as that just brings dirt back to the paint - I expect to use 4-6 or more towels to minimize scratching. Seems better than relying on two buckets and rinsing IME.
  • I will rinse the entire car with the pressure washer.
  • I will then blow off most of the water with a leaf blower, especially getting into nooks and crannies.
  • I will then finish drying the whole car using a detail spray/drying aid to lubricate and gloss up the surface as I dry.
  • I may apply tire shine occasionally, but not always.
  • I may use non-ammonia glass cleaner if necessary.
  • I will clean the interior less carefully as needed.
Sounds like a lot, but it really doesn't take that much time - about a half hour.

The biggest obstacle for me is finding the right weather conditions to avoid direct sun...
 
I don't know how y'all do it so fast. I washed mine for the first time the other day using the traditional 2 bucket method with garden sprayer and from the time I pulled the car out until I pulled it back in was 90 minutes. Pretty sure the wheels alone took me 30 minutes.
 
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Your Model 3 looks fantastic, love that pinstriping.
Thanks! The pinstriping started as temporary experiment a few years ago, just to mix things up and make my ride look a little different than everyone else’s. I was initially thinking I’d leave it on for a few weeks and then remove it. However, it just works/flows so well with my particular set-up that I decided to keep it on the vehicle permanently.


This works for California but probably not feasible for Colorado winters with a lot of grime and salt getting on the car. 4 gallons is not nearly enough to wash everything away :(.
I think a rinseless wash can work in your situation (i.e. be safe to use without causing micro-scratches/marring of your clear coat). But, the absolute key to success is, you must do the rinseless wash shortly after you get back from a drive in the snow/salt. Don’t let your car sit overnight or for several days, since that will allow all the dirt/salt to dry & really stick to your paint. If you do the rinseless wash while everything is still fresh/wet from your drive, then I know through personal experience that a rinseless wash will work/be safe.


I don't know how y'all do it so fast. I washed mine for the first time the other day using the traditional 2 bucket method with garden sprayer and from the time I pulled the car out until I pulled it back in was 90 minutes. Pretty sure the wheels alone took me 30 minutes.
For me, the key to keeping the cleaning/detailing time to 30 minutes or less, is to do a rinseless wash more frequently. A lightly soiled vehicle will be much easier/faster to clean than one that is very dirty (and/or has a lot of dried on dirt). If I am lucky enough to avoid rain showers on any of my drives, then I can easily go almost 2 weeks between rinseless washes, especially in the colder months when there are no bugs around to splatter all over the front bumper. However, on average, I do a 30 minute rinseless wash on my vehicle once a week... all in the comfort of my air conditioned/heated garage. I’ve owned my Model 3 for over 3-1/2 years and have never needed to do a traditional wash outside (with a garden hose or power washer).
 
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Here's one of my Costco multi-fiber cloths after one swipe of the rear bumper from one side to the other. That is, spray rear bumper with ONR solution, make one pass from one side of the car to the other:

20230218_065338 (1).jpg

Note the way it's folded. With this folding I can get sixteen swipes without using the same area twice.

Here's one side of the cloth after eight swipes:

20230218_065723 (1).jpg
 
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I start at the top of the car and work my way down.

Consider washing from the bottom up and rinsing from the top down - this was a tip from my Dad. When washing from the top down fluids drip down and can hide problem areas and also makes it more difficult to see what is left to be done. When working from the bottom up you are always working on an area that has not been touched.

Just a personal preference.
 
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Consider washing from the bottom up and rinsing from the top down - this was a tip from my Dad. When washing from the top down fluids drip down and can hide problem areas and also makes it more difficult to see what is left to be done. When working from the bottom up you are always working on an area that has not been touched.

Just a personal preference.
I don’t know anyone who washes a car from dry without rinsing first, so I’m not sure I understand “hiding problems.” Even so - unless you change mitts/towels often, bottom up would lead to more scratches. Why You Should Wash Your Car Top to Bottom | Auto Care HQ
 
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Consider washing from the bottom up and rinsing from the top down - this was a tip from my Dad. When washing from the top down fluids drip down and can hide problem areas and also makes it more difficult to see what is left to be done. When working from the bottom up you are always working on an area that has not been touched.

Just a personal preference.

That's an interesting idea, but I personally don't see a problem with having some ONR run down to a lower section. If anything that will act as a "pretreatment" and loosen that dirt before your contact wash with the sponge. This would only be an issue if you are doing your rinseless wash in direct sunlight and there is a concern about the ONR solution drying on the panel before you could wipe it away. As long as you do your rinseless wash in the shade on cool paint, this should not be a problem.

The main reason to avoid starting at the bottom and going up is that the bottom of the car is closest to the ground and thus it is the part of the car that gets the dirtiest. If you start at the bottom and you are using a sponge or wash mitt, you increase the chances of scratching your paint. This dirt from the dirtiest part of your car will be introduced into your wash solution at the beginning of the wash and also possibly dirty your sponge so much that it is hard to rinse all of it out. So when you then go "up" to wash the rest of the car, you are more likely to scratch it. By saving the dirtiest part of the car for the end, you minimize the chance of that dirt causing scratches over the rest of the car.

If you want to start at the bottom and work your way up, personally I would only do that if you used the multiple microfiber towel method, where you put a bunch of towels in your wash bucket and you never put a dirty towel back in the wash solution (also knowns as the Garry Dean method).
 
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