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Ingenext Boost Modules [aftermarket]

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got my tire change today. Manage to confirm that I have 980 motor for my model 3 SR+.

For those of you installed the boost 50, Do you guys think the product and installation is worth it? Any regrets installing it?

Lastly, the company advertised reduce 0-60 by 0.6 sec. Does your car actually feel THAT much faster in real driving situation on the road?

As discussed in this thread, it's a little bit of a pain in the butt to install but not that bad. You will feel the difference in acceleration--it's noticeable. If I have any regrets, it's only the knowledge floating in the back of my mind that if Tesla wanted to, they could potentially do the following:

1. Release a software update that blocks the modules ability to spoof what car trim level you have and Ingenext might not be able to overcome it and we'll be out money.
2. Deny warranty coverage for powertrain related failures.
 
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With the model S plaid release it looks like the 980 motor (per FB post of Ingenext) is still king. Tesla paired (mirrored) on center axis. If someone can Frankenstein this into another smaller chassis….game over.
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My bad. It’s on the owner of ingenext FB page.
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Thanks. It's not a 980 motor per se. They reused general layout, but clearly changed oiling system (and called it dry sump this time in manual) and as we know they have changed rotors to this carbon fiber hybrid. They also got rid of differential. And plenty of other stuff, I bet.
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I'm sure some hobbyists already waiting for freshly totalled Plaid to get motors, invertors and battery packs - they don't have to wait for too long.
 
Thanks. It's not a 980 motor per se. They reused general layout, but clearly changed oiling system (and called it dry sump this time in manual) and as we know they have changed rotors to this carbon fiber hybrid. They also got rid of differential. And plenty of other stuff, I bet.
View attachment 673154

I'm sure some hobbyists already waiting for freshly totalled Plaid to get motors, invertors and battery packs - they don't have to wait for too long.
I'm "assuming" he says 980 in terms of number of mosfets. The PN won't be of course and I'm sure he will dissect one as he already as done the model 3 980 DU. He's already done the S rear DU into an s2000 and they have a cool video on their DU control outside of tesla's proprietary software. This gives a lot of options for people wanting to do cool car builds.
 
Tasks likes to aquire these before they go to auction, so don't expect to see them show up even if people total them.
Ingenext is an electric vehicle recycler. You can actually buy tesla parts from them off their website. My friend got a full set of white interior and swaped his black ones out. They carry parts for every EV manufacturer...not only Tesla.

 
I'm "assuming" he says 980 in terms of number of mosfets. The PN won't be of course and I'm sure he will dissect one as he already as done the model 3 980 DU. He's already done the S rear DU into an s2000 and they have a cool video on their DU control outside of tesla's proprietary software. This gives a lot of options for people wanting to do cool car builds.
My understanding that he says it's marked 450V instead of 350V on motors, so invertors are not the same.
 
Thanks. It's not a 980 motor per se. They reused general layout, but clearly changed oiling system (and called it dry sump this time in manual) and as we know they have changed rotors to this carbon fiber hybrid. They also got rid of differential. And plenty of other stuff, I bet.
View attachment 673154

I'm sure some hobbyists already waiting for freshly totalled Plaid to get motors, invertors and battery packs - they don't have to wait for too long.
What, carbon ceramic brake rotors?!?!?

Just kidding... thought that was funny.
 
So I ran my buddies M3P last night against my Ingenext Ghost modded LR AWD+. Our reaction times were nearly identical. My car has slightly more weight reduction (rotors,12v bat, back seat out), which I think accounts for me pulling on him. I ran an 11.43 and he ran an 11.52. We were both around 90% SoC. See time slip attached.

Here's video from my sentry cameras for perspective:

 

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So I ran my buddies M3P last night against my Ingenext Ghost modded LR AWD+. Our reaction times were nearly identical. My car has slightly more weight reduction (rotors,12v bat, back seat out), which I think accounts for me pulling on him. I ran an 11.43 and he ran an 11.52. We were both around 90% SoC. See time slip attached.

Here's video from my sentry cameras for perspective:

So you have the same wheel and tire set?
 
Do you think him having 20 inch wheels vs. your 18 inch contributed even more than the weight savings?

Well increasing your wheel size will always decrease the driving force from your wheels which will culminate in a decrease in acceleration of the wheels. That's physics based on Newton's Second Law.

I'm not an expert so not exactly sure how much impact it has here but it is probably to some degree. I think my wheels are around a half pound lighter each so there is that too.
 
Well increasing your wheel size will always decrease the driving force from your wheels which will culminate in a decrease in acceleration of the wheels. That's physics based on Newton's Second Law.

I'm not an expert so not exactly sure how much impact it has here but it is probably to some degree. I think my wheels are around a half pound lighter each so there is that too.
Aren’t diameter of both your cars’ “wheels including tires” the same? They should be the same, which would mean same acceleration (and accurate speedometers), unless one of you got some strange aftermarket tires.

Weight difference I’m sure played a role though later in the race with more time elapsed.
 
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Aren’t diameter of both your cars’ “wheels including tires” the same? They should be the same, which would mean same acceleration (and accurate speedometers), unless one of you got some strange aftermarket tires.

Weight difference I’m sure played a role though later in the race with more time elapsed.

I have no idea. He has some aftermarket tires for autocross that I don't recall the name of. I'm on Michelin MXM4's.
 
I have no idea. He has some aftermarket tires for autocross that I don't recall the name of. I'm on Michelin MXM4's.
True, still probably safe assumption of same diameter.

Btw, how many miles do you get to full charge nowadays? I’m at 279, down from 310, aka 10% degradation. Just curious if that plays any (likely small) role in acceleration top-end drop-off for our 3-year old 2018s. I’m wondering if my 90% SoC would now be the “acceleration equivalent” of a brand new car’s 81% SoC.
 
True, still probably safe assumption of same diameter.

Btw, how many miles do you get to full charge nowadays? I’m at 279, down from 310, aka 10% degradation. Just curious if that plays any (likely small) role in acceleration top-end drop-off for our 3-year old 2018s. I’m wondering if my 90% SoC would now be the “acceleration equivalent” of a brand new car’s 81% SoC.

someone did a calculation and said the performance would start to lose performance once the degradation hits around 20%.
 
someone did a calculation and said the performance would start to lose performance once the degradation hits around 20%.
You talking degradation or actual charge?

If talking about battery charge: From bjorn nyland (cannot recall spelling) I believe each model year or iteration changes how they perform with charge. The chart he had showed 2019 had the least variation with lower charge.