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aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
Who would ever think someone would complain about how small a panel gap they have on a Tesla.
So far we are up to 4 votes for option 3) (RJ45 connector + security screw terminal block for aux power), and 1 vote for option 2) (2x terminal blocks without security screws).
One other downside to the RJ45 approach that I didn't mention: Since Cat5/Cat6 "only" has 8 conductors, we wouldn't be able to utilize all of the outputs we would otherwise have access to through the breakout. Best case we get 6 outputs (with 2 wires used for power and ground). Worst case we only get 4 (if we need to double up on wires for extra current; need to do some testing but will depend on the current draw of the extra camera + camera switcher).
We only need one output for the camera switcher (reverse), but the other outputs might be useful for other projects like the lighted rear appliqué or @BearBu's 360 degree camera project.
So far I have the following signals mapped:
1) Reverse gear selected
2) Drive gear selected
3) Brakelights on (either via regen or pedal pressed by human/autopilot)
4) Left Turn Signal
5) Right Turn Signal
6) Steering wheel menu button held for >1s (this toggles output; press and hold for high, press and hold again for low; we could use this to toggle the camera switcher in addition to/instead of homelink/separate remote)
I plan to map another out at least one more signal per the request of a user here so he can turn some auxiliary lights on/off with the car's high beams.
In addition, I am also currently capturing vehicle speed, which we could use to only flip to the front camera automatically at low speeds while in drive (<5mph?).
One other downside to the RJ45 approach that I didn't mention: Since Cat5/Cat6 "only" has 8 conductors, we wouldn't be able to utilize all of the outputs we would otherwise have access to through the breakout. Best case we get 6 outputs (with 2 wires used for power and ground). Worst case we only get 4 (if we need to double up on wires for extra current; need to do some testing but will depend on the current draw of the extra camera + camera switcher).
We only need one output for the camera switcher (reverse), but the other outputs might be useful for other projects like the lighted rear appliqué or @BearBu's 360 degree camera project.
So far I have the following signals mapped:
1) Reverse gear selected
2) Drive gear selected
3) Brakelights on (either via regen or pedal pressed by human/autopilot)
4) Left Turn Signal
5) Right Turn Signal
6) Steering wheel menu button held for >1s (this toggles output; press and hold for high, press and hold again for low; we could use this to toggle the camera switcher in addition to/instead of homelink/separate remote)
I plan to map another out at least one more signal per the request of a user here so he can turn some auxiliary lights on/off with the car's high beams.
In addition, I am also currently capturing vehicle speed, which we could use to only flip to the front camera automatically at low speeds while in drive (<5mph?).
this product perfectly matches my needs in my projects (multi-views, HDMI, 360). @appleguru did a really great job! Hope I were in your area so that I can buy u beers
@appleguru if there is an option for me take, I would vote for:
an UART signal or PWM signal for various modes, altogether with the Vcc, GND to be made in a cable (4pin). That's the ultimate CAN decoder for me.
I potentially could give you an 8bit PWM signal... Take a look at the UJA1023 data sheet for possible output modes: https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/UJA1023.pdf
wbhokie
Member
Brief update:
1) CAN bus Kit Prototype #1 has been completed + shipped to @BearBu for testing
2) I just got high beam status sorted (working even with auto high beams enabled. Tested so far with AP2+; AP1 and older may be slightly different)
3) @artsci and I I have received an estimated shipping date from the cable vendor for early September for the cables (which is sooner than expected!)
4) I am building a second CAN bus prototype now for further testing on my car while we await the final PCB design
Stay tuned for more soon
1) CAN bus Kit Prototype #1 has been completed + shipped to @BearBu for testing
2) I just got high beam status sorted (working even with auto high beams enabled. Tested so far with AP2+; AP1 and older may be slightly different)
3) @artsci and I I have received an estimated shipping date from the cable vendor for early September for the cables (which is sooner than expected!)
4) I am building a second CAN bus prototype now for further testing on my car while we await the final PCB design
Stay tuned for more soon
All you need now is "running lights on" and you've got all of the signals for the lighted rear applique. Jurgen Balitzky needs to know about this as it would make installation of the lighted rear applique much, much easier.
berkeley_ecar
S 90D (fully loaded) delivered 18 Mar 2017
Thanks for the clarification! I switch my vote to whatever connector provides maximum potential for other/future projects! That vastly overrides any benefit of 5 minutes saved in installation.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Brief update:
1) CAN bus Kit Prototype #1 has been completed + shipped to @BearBu for testing
2) I just got high beam status sorted (working even with auto high beams enabled. Tested so far with AP2+; AP1 and older may be slightly different)
3) @artsci and I I have received an estimated shipping date from the cable vendor for early September for the cables (which is sooner than expected!)
4) I am building a second CAN bus prototype now for further testing on my car while we await the final PCB design
Stay tuned for more soon
The parcel will be arriving tonight and I will do a brief testing for the the reverse and “menu button” switching function
Thanks
Tech_Guy
ALWAYS IN LUDICROUS MODE! P90D>P100D Upgrade
Agreed id be willing to change my vote as well for whichever connector offers maximizes potential for future projects
WATTS-UP
Member
I would be interested in talking with you (@appleguru) regarding the lighted applique that I am producing for the model S and X. The way we wire the car takes a lot of time and a tie in to the can bus may be the way to go. RICK, THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP.
Hi
Not sure if this had been mentioned before but I thought I would pass it along. The camera cable ends can be removed to allow for easy insulation in tight areas like behind the pillar fender seam with out the need for prying.
Not sure if this had been mentioned before but I thought I would pass it along. The camera cable ends can be removed to allow for easy insulation in tight areas like behind the pillar fender seam with out the need for prying.
This is awesome, great tip. Once we get our custom cables in I’ll post an updated video showing the technique!
Yes, meant installation. I haven't installed the camera yet but I'm hoping to find a path through the firewall that will accommodate the smaller end of the cable.
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