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T_Chicago
Member
Has anyone run this front cam with AP 2.5 and MCU 2? Going in for the MCU 2 upgrade and wondering if I should keep everything wired or pull it. Still love the front cam view though!
KArnold
Active Member
I had the 360-degree camera setup on my MCU1/AP2 car when I went in for the MCU2/AP3 upgrade including the HDMI switch. I can't speak to AP 2.5 but the wiring between AP2 and AP3 was in very different locations. The SC I'm sure was surprised when they saw my extra wiring. They had no specs but gave it a shot but unfortunately wrong. Even the OEM backup cam wasn't working when I picked it up, but I don't blame them. I just had to figure out how to re-wire.
In retrospect I would have probably left the wires installed but loose, leaving a quick note for the tech to just let them be. Wire it back to OEM specs and then put it back together yourself.
YMMV. With just a front cam your setup might be simpler than mine. My problem was going from AP3 to the 360-switch (with extra cams), then to HDMI switch, then to the MCU. I may have pics around if you get tangled up.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
If/When I have my MCU worked on the camera is being disconnected first. I will leave the wiring in place though.
I don't trust them using it as an excuse for why the MCU failed etc and don't need the extra hassle of fighting them about something not working correctly.
I don't trust them using it as an excuse for why the MCU failed etc and don't need the extra hassle of fighting them about something not working correctly.
SCEV
Member
After several years, I am finally getting around to install this. I don't have the CANbus kit. So, I will need to hook to the 4 pin connector on the switch.
There are 4 pins: 12V, GND, REAR, FRNT.
1) Where's the best place to tap 12V/GND near the wire harness?
2) Do I need to connect up REAR & FRNT if I use HomeLink & remotes?
There are 4 pins: 12V, GND, REAR, FRNT.
1) Where's the best place to tap 12V/GND near the wire harness?
2) Do I need to connect up REAR & FRNT if I use HomeLink & remotes?
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
OBD II port for power and ground. Homelink and remotes should work for activating it.
There is another way to turn it off/on.
1. Even though most switches are marked Rear & Front for cable connections, you don't have to connected them in that specific position. Front is the default. And I think that's what most people want. But you could pull in for rear to be default.
2. The green connector uses only three position/wires. 12V pos and Ground. You can test what I am saying before you permanently secure/mount the switch. If you plugged the cables in per guidance, to swap between front and rear, you simply need to give the "Rear/Reverse" wire 12 volt positive. And to swap back from rear cam view to front cam view, just give it 12V again.
3. So, in summary, if you want a manual method. Hook up wires to 12V(with a fuse of course) and ground. then add a push button momentary switch with 12V to the "Rear/Reserve wire to swap views.
You need to configure the remote so you can configure the Homelink settings. I had all three setup. But looking away from anywhere to the corner of the screen, opening the Homelink menu, scrolling down to "Rear screen" or "Camera", took my eyes off the road/stuff for too long. And using the remote, hanging on the gear shift stalk I needed to fumble to find the small "D" button. (D button on the remotes were the only button that would work). a pain in the okole. So, I first made a manual/momentary switch and mounted it. Hated that. Then through some trial and error, finally found a cheap remote on eBay to sub for the original remote. The eBay remote was one button and nice and big. Don't remember which one. Sorry.
After 2015/16 Tesla changed the harnesses and we were unable to find the Reverse trigger. I messed with different approaches for about 6 months after I bought my 2017 and moved the kit to it.
I was wiring up the lighted rear applique's lights and tapped into brake, tail, reverse lights and had a brainstorm. Tried it and it worked. So, I again found the wire going to the liftgate's wire feeding the backup lights. I used lightweight 16/18 gauge speaker wire and ran a one pair wire (both ends connected to the backup lights) to the front of the car to the switch. I used both sides of the pair simply for redundancy since I was running the wire anyway - not because I needed both wires. This solved my "how to" swap the front cam to rear cam problem when I put the car in Reverse.
There is another way to turn it off/on.
1. Even though most switches are marked Rear & Front for cable connections, you don't have to connected them in that specific position. Front is the default. And I think that's what most people want. But you could pull in for rear to be default.
2. The green connector uses only three position/wires. 12V pos and Ground. You can test what I am saying before you permanently secure/mount the switch. If you plugged the cables in per guidance, to swap between front and rear, you simply need to give the "Rear/Reverse" wire 12 volt positive. And to swap back from rear cam view to front cam view, just give it 12V again.
3. So, in summary, if you want a manual method. Hook up wires to 12V(with a fuse of course) and ground. then add a push button momentary switch with 12V to the "Rear/Reserve wire to swap views.
You need to configure the remote so you can configure the Homelink settings. I had all three setup. But looking away from anywhere to the corner of the screen, opening the Homelink menu, scrolling down to "Rear screen" or "Camera", took my eyes off the road/stuff for too long. And using the remote, hanging on the gear shift stalk I needed to fumble to find the small "D" button. (D button on the remotes were the only button that would work). a pain in the okole. So, I first made a manual/momentary switch and mounted it. Hated that. Then through some trial and error, finally found a cheap remote on eBay to sub for the original remote. The eBay remote was one button and nice and big. Don't remember which one. Sorry.
After 2015/16 Tesla changed the harnesses and we were unable to find the Reverse trigger. I messed with different approaches for about 6 months after I bought my 2017 and moved the kit to it.
I was wiring up the lighted rear applique's lights and tapped into brake, tail, reverse lights and had a brainstorm. Tried it and it worked. So, I again found the wire going to the liftgate's wire feeding the backup lights. I used lightweight 16/18 gauge speaker wire and ran a one pair wire (both ends connected to the backup lights) to the front of the car to the switch. I used both sides of the pair simply for redundancy since I was running the wire anyway - not because I needed both wires. This solved my "how to" swap the front cam to rear cam problem when I put the car in Reverse.
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I cannot for some reason figure out how to PM you, but I am interested...can you PM me?
SCEV
Member
SCEV
Member
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
@CasanovaTATTOO, Hi, I'm only commenting to clarify something for you. There's no one working on getting a new batch of the Front Cam Switch built. I can't guess what you mean by "Count me in also".
And just to answer your question about voiding the warranty. It does not void the warranty. Some of us have had this installed for years and in/out of the Service Center many times. I've even discussed it/bragged to the SC techs about it.
You won't be able to get one of these kits without buying it from someone that selling theirs.
And just to answer your question about voiding the warranty. It does not void the warranty. Some of us have had this installed for years and in/out of the Service Center many times. I've even discussed it/bragged to the SC techs about it.
You won't be able to get one of these kits without buying it from someone that selling theirs.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
I'd love to see someone try to install the switch on a 2021LR or Plaid.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Got it ! Well if they come back into the market would love the heads up ! Thanks !
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