I started my parts request with a phone call to my local SC (and then they followed up via email).
(Also, I have some updates for you guys on the CAN interface from my weekend R&D session.. stay tuned! It's coming along nicely!)
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I started my parts request with a phone call to my local SC (and then they followed up via email).
(Also, I have some updates for you guys on the CAN interface from my weekend R&D session.. stay tuned! It's coming along nicely!)
Thanks, I'll give them a call perhaps tomorrow. I knew the Tesla-only parts was going to be the fun part!
Ok, and update from the weekends testing... First, a prototype of both the camera switch and of my CAN bus interface successfully worked together to switch the camera feed on shift from forward to reverse. Watch a short video of this in action here:
Please pardon the mess of wires, everything in that video is a prototype!
I made some really awesome progress this weekend on the code that will allow me to use an unused output (the panda's GMLAN out) for the switch output, which means I won't need to modify the panda hardware for this kit (just the firmware).
The current plan for the final CAN interface design is to make a custom PCB that plugs into the car's OBD port and securely holds the small panda device and also has all of the needed electronics for the reverse signal out. A small 3 conductor wire would then plug into this and go a few short inches behind the panel where the switch sits to provide the needed signals (GND, +, Reverse). This should be pretty seamless, and should not be visible unless you put your head under the dash.
These "giraffes" should look a bit like this:
I need to start ordering connectors boards, and components to build these, so please don't forget to PM me and put your deposit down if you're interested in a kit!
Please pardon the mess of wires, everything in that video is a prototype!
I made some really awesome progress this weekend on the code that will allow me to use an unused output (the panda's GMLAN out) for the switch output, which means I won't need to modify the panda hardware for this kit (just the firmware).
The current plan for the final CAN interface design is to make a custom PCB that plugs into the car's OBD port and securely holds the small panda device and also has all of the needed electronics for the reverse signal out. A small 3 conductor wire would then plug into this and go a few short inches behind the panel where the switch sits to provide the needed signals (GND, +, Reverse). This should be pretty seamless, and should not be visible unless you put your head under the dash.
These "giraffes" should look a bit like this:
I need to start ordering connectors boards, and components to build these, so please don't forget to PM me and put your deposit down if you're interested in a kit!
@appleguru -
I'm interested in your project and while I'm a very DIY person, I'm inclined to order the kit from you (mostly out of support) but am unsure as to its capabilities.
Can you clarify how the following situation(s) would work, especially in conjunction with a HomeLink option on @artsci's remote switch as well?
Your video shows your Canbus kit switching to rear cam when in reverse, and front cam while in drive. This seems dead simple. However, I have the following questions:
1) with your canbus solution installed, How does one switch to the rear cam while in drive (to observe traffic from behind while driving)? Must I use the remote, or, could I use a HomeLink pairing to an MCU garage door button called "Camera" to switch between front and rear camera on the fly?
2) Assuming I could switch the view on the fly while in drive and view the rear camera, either via @artsci remote or via HomeLink, does that then goof up your canbus solution so that when I change from drive to reverse I get the opposite desired camera? (While in drive I use @artsci remote to switch to show rear cam, then, next time I change transmission to Reverse would your canbus device switch the input again to the forward camera erroneously?) or is there logic that checks the camera in use when transmission is in reverse and leaves rear cam active if it's already active?
3) Is there a way to have your canbus solution only display the Rear cam when entering into reverse, but otherwise not change to the front camera when selecting Drive? For example, imagine I have my HomeLink setup to switch from rear cam to front cam as I enter my garage. MCU will display front cam while I park, exit, and when I return. When I put car in reverse to exit garage, your canbus solution could swap cameras to rear cam automatically, but, upon hitting drive, LEAVE the rear camera selected as I drive. Basically, I'd like your canbus solution to override to rear cam if I go into reverse, but, not switch to front cam unless I use the Remote or HomeLink.
At the end of the day, perhaps I'm over-complicating this, but I'd like to use HomeLink to switch to front camera when needed, and use your canbus solution to automatically switch to rear cam when I go into reverse, but otherwise always leave rear cam active.
Thoughts? Thanks
I'm interested in your project and while I'm a very DIY person, I'm inclined to order the kit from you (mostly out of support) but am unsure as to its capabilities.
Can you clarify how the following situation(s) would work, especially in conjunction with a HomeLink option on @artsci's remote switch as well?
Your video shows your Canbus kit switching to rear cam when in reverse, and front cam while in drive. This seems dead simple. However, I have the following questions:
1) with your canbus solution installed, How does one switch to the rear cam while in drive (to observe traffic from behind while driving)? Must I use the remote, or, could I use a HomeLink pairing to an MCU garage door button called "Camera" to switch between front and rear camera on the fly?
2) Assuming I could switch the view on the fly while in drive and view the rear camera, either via @artsci remote or via HomeLink, does that then goof up your canbus solution so that when I change from drive to reverse I get the opposite desired camera? (While in drive I use @artsci remote to switch to show rear cam, then, next time I change transmission to Reverse would your canbus device switch the input again to the forward camera erroneously?) or is there logic that checks the camera in use when transmission is in reverse and leaves rear cam active if it's already active?
3) Is there a way to have your canbus solution only display the Rear cam when entering into reverse, but otherwise not change to the front camera when selecting Drive? For example, imagine I have my HomeLink setup to switch from rear cam to front cam as I enter my garage. MCU will display front cam while I park, exit, and when I return. When I put car in reverse to exit garage, your canbus solution could swap cameras to rear cam automatically, but, upon hitting drive, LEAVE the rear camera selected as I drive. Basically, I'd like your canbus solution to override to rear cam if I go into reverse, but, not switch to front cam unless I use the Remote or HomeLink.
At the end of the day, perhaps I'm over-complicating this, but I'd like to use HomeLink to switch to front camera when needed, and use your canbus solution to automatically switch to rear cam when I go into reverse, but otherwise always leave rear cam active.
Thoughts? Thanks
Yes, you would use the remote or homelink button on your touchscreen to switch between views while in D. The switch already has logic built in to handle this case and it doesn’t mess anything up. The reverse signal is just another input.
RE only switching to reverse but not back to the forward cam, this should be possible... I’ll do some testing and report back.
I am also looking at perhaps adding a mode where the CAN interface checks vehicle speed (and maybe other variables that might help fingerprint a parking situation), such that it stays on the reverse camera all the time unless it thinks you are parking (speed under 3mph, etc).
Especially since the autopilot system may start using the rear camera feed for input in the future, this seems like a good idea on AP2+ vehicles. (Though in my testing so far, even a fully disconnected rear camera doesn’t seem to affect autopilot at all)
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Thanks for the reply. Personally, I'd prefer to opt out of the "3mph auto front/rear cam" setting as I'd like to keep my rear camera active in traffic, even in stop and go traffic. Basically, I'd like canbus to switch to rear camera only when switching transmission to reverse and otherwise do nothing else. Unless, you can also use front sonar pings at, say, 36" or less to queue turning on front cam automatically. That'd perfect to use speed and sonar pings as the trigger.
Also, others wiser than I can chime in here, but, for AP2.0+ vehicles, the rear camera feeds to the APE (AP ECU behind the glove box) first, then feeds daisy chain to the MCU. My plan is to modify the camera feed between the APE and MCU so that APE ALWAYS gets the rear camera feed, but MCU gets whichever camera I choose to display. This should guarantee AP2.0+ will always work, especially when they enable usage of the rear camera for EAP /FSD, even with this front camera mod and displaying the front camera on the MCU.
Also, others wiser than I can chime in here, but, for AP2.0+ vehicles, the rear camera feeds to the APE (AP ECU behind the glove box) first, then feeds daisy chain to the MCU. My plan is to modify the camera feed between the APE and MCU so that APE ALWAYS gets the rear camera feed, but MCU gets whichever camera I choose to display. This should guarantee AP2.0+ will always work, especially when they enable usage of the rear camera for EAP /FSD, even with this front camera mod and displaying the front camera on the MCU.
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Yes, plan for the “3mph mod” is to pull in enough heuristics that I only switch to the front camera when parking. So it should never do so when I’m traffic. I’ll do some experimentation and report back.
Your plan to intercept the camera feed post APE is a good one (though will likely take a bit more work as you have to remove the glovebox and then find a good place to source power + put the camera switch). I will also do a bit of testing there too to see if I can find a clean way to do the install that way.
Apple: I am interested in your board but am still trying to wrap my head around what exactly it does. My understanding is that it plugs directly into the OBD port and draws power/certain signals from the Canbus there, thus greatly simplifying installation of the switch that this whole thread is dedicated to. It seems that it also can use certain signals from the Canbus interface to trigger the switch under certain conditions (ie, as discussed above, flipping to the front camera at low speeds while moving forward, etc). So, there are two purposes: simplifying installation of the switch and allowing more seamless operation of the switching between front and rear cameras without having to manually switch the inputs with a remote control or with homelink.
Am I right on that? As I said, very interested in picking one up, just making sure that I understand exactly what it does.
Am I right on that? As I said, very interested in picking one up, just making sure that I understand exactly what it does.
You’ve got it! The CAN bus kit also makes the install completely reverseable, as everything added to the car now just plugs In.
(In addition, one of the big changes with newer vehicles is that the reverse wire this camera mod used to tap into is no longer present. So without the CAN bus kit I’m working on, you’d have to tap it in the trunk, where it goes to the taillights... which is a lot more involved).
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Now you just need to take the same CANBUS reader and detect brake lights, turn signals, charging status, and parking lights, and we can use it for the Lighted Rear Applique and make that install super simple.
All of those signals are fairly straight forward; is just a matter of getting enough IO...
A small hiccup on the post-APE camera feed install: it seems tesla uses the HSD A coded black connectors for the APE <—> CID connection instead of the blue C coded connectors they use on the rest of the run. @artsci, is it too late to change the connectors on the switcher board from blue C coded to water blue Z coded (which is the universal key that fits all HSD cables)?
Kalud
Active Member
How many IOs exactly do we need ? And what's the interface signaling needed (0-12V ?)
Since you guys tends to to it all (Applique, cam switcher, Openpilot) etc.
I'd need a maximum number of IOs needed for all.
Future idea is also OBD to Trailer lights
Reading through @artsci's install guide, I see 5 needed: Install instructions are in Google Docs
Specifically:
Reverse
Taillights
Right Turn
Left Turn
Brake
Reverse could be shared with the camera switcher, so wouldn't necessarily need its own output. Not sure who did the bluetooth module/if it will work with 3.3/5V control signals or requires 12-14V signals (like the camera switcher does)...
The MCP25050 CAN IO expander we were looking at could work well here... I don't have a PoC with that yet, but could try to get a circuit wired up to test this weekend. I'm not sure the NXP LIN bus part I was also looking at will work (mostly because I don't know how LIN works / if the Panda can be used as a LIN master...). If the LIN bus part does work though, that could save wasting a CAN output on the panda!
Kalud
Active Member
I have a few MCP25050 in hand too. Lets use that, make so much sense. we have a spare CAN anyway.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
It works with +12v signals to all those inputs to the Applique Module.. I do not know if they would work with 3.3/5v signals.
edit: It's an arduino module.. so if the arduino standard IOs can work with +12v, then they'll likely work with 3.3/5v also.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
There's also an input on the Applique module for charging status (i.e. car is charging) in order to display a different color/pattern during charging. So that would need one more I/O.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
Forget all this nuanced stuff. I want to know when you hw guys are going to fix the mirror image problem so my brain does not turn into the obstacle I am seeing on the screen using a rear view camera pointed forward.
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