aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
You can bring it down to me in Shingle Springs and I can pry on your car until we get it installed.
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6t8stang
Member
Did we get enough interest yet for a 2nd run of cables? And if you didn't get cables and want them, send in your deposit!
Buddyroe
Active Member
I'd like to do this. Who do I pay? And how long before I get the kit? (sorry, I didn't read through the entire thread). Feel free to PM me if the answer will be a repeat and clutter the thread.
Stay tuned for a big update on the can bus kit. And yes, everything plays nice with v9... my rear camera feed calibrated no problem on my AP2 car, even with the front camera/camera switcher connected. Blind spot monitoring/auto lane change all works great.
Ok, so on the can bus kit side, a few developments. The design for the second revision of the CAN bus kit is done; major changes include switching to an automotive grade 8ch high side output FET that can drive up to 200mA per channel of output, adjusting the board shape to better fit the curve of vehicle trim, and adding indicator LEDs to each output channel to give a visual aid to when channels are enabled.
The new output FET means this board can not only drive the camera switcher, but also relays (for things like light bars), and other direct loads up to 200mA.
Some logistics updates:
1) Board spin # 2 had some issues at the fab and got delayed a week. I finally received my two pre-production units on Friday. After some initial testing, I had to make a small BOM modification (which I did tonight and reworked my two samples with the change). Testing with the v9 Tesla firmware and latest camera switcher so far has been been great! I'll be shipping the second kit to @Akikiki tomorrow for him to test with the Camera switcher on Model X while I continue my testing on Model S.
2) After I make the small BOM tweak, I plan to put the production order for the CAN bus kit PCBs this week. This means I should be able start shipping these out to you guys by the first week of November, which should hopefully match (or possibly even beat!) the arrival of the camera switcher and cable kits from @artsci.
3) Keep an eye out for an email from me in the next few days; I will be collecting final payment, shipping information, and configuration information from everyone that has a deposit in for the CAN bus kits.
4) I removed my "old" install video from YT as I have updated footage that I need to edit together and upload. Stay tuned for this; I should definitely have it back up before your hardware arrives!
And finally, here's a sneak peak of a fully populated can bus kit from the latest board spin:
The new output FET means this board can not only drive the camera switcher, but also relays (for things like light bars), and other direct loads up to 200mA.
Some logistics updates:
1) Board spin # 2 had some issues at the fab and got delayed a week. I finally received my two pre-production units on Friday. After some initial testing, I had to make a small BOM modification (which I did tonight and reworked my two samples with the change). Testing with the v9 Tesla firmware and latest camera switcher so far has been been great! I'll be shipping the second kit to @Akikiki tomorrow for him to test with the Camera switcher on Model X while I continue my testing on Model S.
2) After I make the small BOM tweak, I plan to put the production order for the CAN bus kit PCBs this week. This means I should be able start shipping these out to you guys by the first week of November, which should hopefully match (or possibly even beat!) the arrival of the camera switcher and cable kits from @artsci.
3) Keep an eye out for an email from me in the next few days; I will be collecting final payment, shipping information, and configuration information from everyone that has a deposit in for the CAN bus kits.
4) I removed my "old" install video from YT as I have updated footage that I need to edit together and upload. Stay tuned for this; I should definitely have it back up before your hardware arrives!
And finally, here's a sneak peak of a fully populated can bus kit from the latest board spin:
Appleguru - great looking assembly! You've done a lot of great work here. One question - I currently use an OBD plug and pigtail to pull off 12v powering my dashcams. With your design fit so snugly into the port and eliminating my current rig's use, I'm wondering if I can tap unswitched 12v off the device somewhere to keep the dashcams in play?
Absolutely, that’s what the 2-pin terminal block is for! (Aux power out).
All power outputs from the board go through that 3A replaceable fuse on the board.
The panda’s USB port can also be used for charging USB devices!
HankLloydRight
No Roads
As they say in England, that's a nice piece of kit.
So for use in the lighted applique, is the idea to run a 7 or 8 conductor cable to the rear hatch? Or find a CANBUS tap point in the rear hatch area and use a different connector?
So for use in the lighted applique, is the idea to run a 7 or 8 conductor cable to the rear hatch? Or find a CANBUS tap point in the rear hatch area and use a different connector?
Kalud
Active Member
As they say in England, that's a nice piece of kit.
So for use in the lighted applique, is the idea to run a 7 or 8 conductor cable to the rear hatch? Or find a CANBUS tap point in the rear hatch area and use a different connector?
Yes different tap point in the hatch and no OBD connector on the board would work great.
There is Chassis CAN on the parking sensor ECU in the hatch, driver's side. Probably also elsewhere that I can find for you for those without parking sensors.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
UPDATE: Okay good news. I successfully installed artsci's 2nd run prototype front cam switch on a X today. Works great.
And on Monday last, I received one of the two beta CAN BUS switches that appleguru built. I used that switch and installed it on the same X with the front cam switch. Works great. Works great. This should remove any doubts that we have talked about here with both the 2nd run switch and installing it on a X, and appleguru's CAN BUS switch.
As far as I can tell from this forum, this is the first time the front cam switch has been installed on a X. Works fine.
When installing on a X, there are a couple of differences worth mentioning. Before you ask, I don't have pictures yet. The person that owns the X was working with me, and took pictures. I will get pictures later and pass them to artsci and appleguru to go into the instructions. That insures maximum benefit in a reliable location versus buried in one post on this long thread.
1. The front of the X 'behind the front bumper" is a bit more busy or complex than the S, so threading the long front cable is a bit more difficult. But can be done.
2. Threading the cable along the inside/underside of the right front fender is a bit more complex at the frunk lid hinge and where you move the cable towards the right side door. The cable routing path is a bit different than on an S. We will not be routing the cable to the cabin by prying the top of the fender away from the bottom edge of the windshield (using a couple of trim removal tools) like we do on the S.
The cable will feed through a small opening at the back of the fender (near the door). You are going to need a fish or long stiff wire. There's a strip of rubber sort of a seal near the frunk lid hinge. That's a very good place to slide the cable under the rubber seal and run it toward the door/dash.. Move around to the open door and look towards the end of the right front fender for an opening above the door's hinge toward the opening end of the right front. You are looking for an opening to pull the cable through. The only opening is narrow but tall, however the cable's Z style connector will not fit through the opening, its simply large to go through the hole.
However appleguru taught be a trick that helped with this. The Z style connect is made up of three parts. A small plastic lock (usually purple), a plastic housing that slips over a long metal end with 4 connectors inside. On the Z style connector, If you carefully remove the purple housing lock with a small blade, then lift the slender tab near the lock, you can easily slide the plastic housing off the metal end of the cable. Then using your fish, pull/thread the cable through and put the housing back on the end before you lose the purple lock.
Take note folks. IMPORTANT. When you slide the Z style housing off the end of the cable, take special note of the three 90 degree sides on the metal terminal shoulder. The fourth shoulder on the metal end is shaved at a 45 degree angle. It helps you identify how to slide the housing back on to re-align the cable's four connections to match the car - how they need to be.
And on Monday last, I received one of the two beta CAN BUS switches that appleguru built. I used that switch and installed it on the same X with the front cam switch. Works great. Works great. This should remove any doubts that we have talked about here with both the 2nd run switch and installing it on a X, and appleguru's CAN BUS switch.
As far as I can tell from this forum, this is the first time the front cam switch has been installed on a X. Works fine.
When installing on a X, there are a couple of differences worth mentioning. Before you ask, I don't have pictures yet. The person that owns the X was working with me, and took pictures. I will get pictures later and pass them to artsci and appleguru to go into the instructions. That insures maximum benefit in a reliable location versus buried in one post on this long thread.
1. The front of the X 'behind the front bumper" is a bit more busy or complex than the S, so threading the long front cable is a bit more difficult. But can be done.
2. Threading the cable along the inside/underside of the right front fender is a bit more complex at the frunk lid hinge and where you move the cable towards the right side door. The cable routing path is a bit different than on an S. We will not be routing the cable to the cabin by prying the top of the fender away from the bottom edge of the windshield (using a couple of trim removal tools) like we do on the S.
The cable will feed through a small opening at the back of the fender (near the door). You are going to need a fish or long stiff wire. There's a strip of rubber sort of a seal near the frunk lid hinge. That's a very good place to slide the cable under the rubber seal and run it toward the door/dash.. Move around to the open door and look towards the end of the right front fender for an opening above the door's hinge toward the opening end of the right front. You are looking for an opening to pull the cable through. The only opening is narrow but tall, however the cable's Z style connector will not fit through the opening, its simply large to go through the hole.
However appleguru taught be a trick that helped with this. The Z style connect is made up of three parts. A small plastic lock (usually purple), a plastic housing that slips over a long metal end with 4 connectors inside. On the Z style connector, If you carefully remove the purple housing lock with a small blade, then lift the slender tab near the lock, you can easily slide the plastic housing off the metal end of the cable. Then using your fish, pull/thread the cable through and put the housing back on the end before you lose the purple lock.
Take note folks. IMPORTANT. When you slide the Z style housing off the end of the cable, take special note of the three 90 degree sides on the metal terminal shoulder. The fourth shoulder on the metal end is shaved at a 45 degree angle. It helps you identify how to slide the housing back on to re-align the cable's four connections to match the car - how they need to be.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
I assume this was an AP2 car? For AP1 wouldn't we do the routing on the left side of the car?
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Yes, you are correct. Pre-AP1 and AP1 will connect on the left side of the car just under the dash. Generally requires removing the left side kickpad to see the connector junction.
AZ Desert Driver
Rare combination
So there is a new Version 9 that does lots of things to the dash. My rear camera is now under a couple of clicks, and I use it to place my car properly in the garage. Does V9 interfere with this Akikiki connection plan?
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
It was Nanimac's (on this forum's Model X. She has V9. She selected the camera and it comes up default to the front. Then we used, (1) Reverse to bring up the rear view, (2) the accompanying remote to switch to rear view, and then (3) the Camera Swap Homelink {choice we setup on Homelink} to switch to rear view, and each time to switch back to front. So, No, V9 did not interfere with front camera view to rear camera view.
AZ Desert Driver
Rare combination
Cool. I have faith in you guys. You have spent time, money and brain cells to get this right. I may still, yet, jump back into this project and protect the nose of my car. Right now - still seems too complicated for my feeble brain to see what button to push to get the screen I want when I want it (want rear to see if I'm in enough and front to see if I'm in too far - both screens active while driving forward).
I will hire some other dude to pull apart my door panels and lace the cables. That's just a matter of buying the kit [if it ever becomes available as a kit] and beating it with money. Operating this simple switch is something I have to live with. Still too complicated for me.
I will hire some other dude to pull apart my door panels and lace the cables. That's just a matter of buying the kit [if it ever becomes available as a kit] and beating it with money. Operating this simple switch is something I have to live with. Still too complicated for me.
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