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aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
Early 2016 Model X with AP1
An update on trying to get this kit working on a first run 2016 MX fully loaded (AP1). @appleguru has been helping me with the install virtually because it is not like any other cars posted on this thread.
My simple message for anyone else who wants to do this on the same type of car is: Do not try this at home.
Here is a summary of the issues with this particular car:
So the project is on hold until I can get the extension cable and then I will put everything together first before hiding the cables and putting the car back together just to make sure it actually works.
An update on trying to get this kit working on a first run 2016 MX fully loaded (AP1). @appleguru has been helping me with the install virtually because it is not like any other cars posted on this thread.
My simple message for anyone else who wants to do this on the same type of car is: Do not try this at home.
Here is a summary of the issues with this particular car:
- The split in the rear camera is not under a door threshold, in a kick panel or under the dash. It happens to be under the center console of the car.
- To get the center console out you have a huge undertaking. Much worse than an updated Model S as there are more connectors and some of the plastic covers over the pedals etc make removing some of the parts impossible, so a few exceptions have to be undertaken
- The cables are actually underneath the rear air duct which cannot be removed, only lifted up on one end in order the get access to the connectors
- Once you find the connector you have to extend both sides with about 2 feet of cable since the connector is actually buried into a large wiring loom. So you need one 2 foot cable that is M-F and another 2 foot cable that is F-F.
- After placing in the two extension cables then it's back to the AP1 MS routine as far as I can tell but I need to order an extension cable first.
So the project is on hold until I can get the extension cable and then I will put everything together first before hiding the cables and putting the car back together just to make sure it actually works.
JohnnyG
Weee!
The rear camera isn't used by HW1 (AP1), so it doesn't plug into any AP unit. It goes straight to the MCU.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
I know this is a long shot, but does anyone have an extra set of the required Tesla cables they'd like to sell me? I've had zero luck getting the local service centers to order them for me.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
Update on my MX AP1 attempt:
The console is back in the car again but I left off the glovebox, right dash panel and the lower right carpet panel at the console.
I have ordered this cable from eBay and it should be here in a few weeks.
HSD LVDS Extension Cable 1m for BMW Rear View Backup Camera Side View Camera | eBay
This cable, along the the 1m female to female cable will be used to extend the connection at the back of the MCU. We have a long set of pliers that kind of look like forceps and we will extract the cable from the back of the MCU and route both ends to the switch. The switch will be placed in a void just forward of the bottom of the center right of the dash where it will be joined by the front camera cable and the ODB wires.
We decided this was the best course of action since doing the connection under the console still needed the same cables and if something broke later, or I needed to pull the mod to keep Tesla off of my back, this would be far easier.
So I am on a 2 week hiatus until the new cable arrives.
BTW I did get a bit of a scare in that after we put everything back together again we did get this error on the dash:
Rebooting both methods did not clear it. I rolled down the window and did the power off and then came back about 15 minutes later and it had cleared.
The console is back in the car again but I left off the glovebox, right dash panel and the lower right carpet panel at the console.
I have ordered this cable from eBay and it should be here in a few weeks.
HSD LVDS Extension Cable 1m for BMW Rear View Backup Camera Side View Camera | eBay
This cable, along the the 1m female to female cable will be used to extend the connection at the back of the MCU. We have a long set of pliers that kind of look like forceps and we will extract the cable from the back of the MCU and route both ends to the switch. The switch will be placed in a void just forward of the bottom of the center right of the dash where it will be joined by the front camera cable and the ODB wires.
We decided this was the best course of action since doing the connection under the console still needed the same cables and if something broke later, or I needed to pull the mod to keep Tesla off of my back, this would be far easier.
So I am on a 2 week hiatus until the new cable arrives.
BTW I did get a bit of a scare in that after we put everything back together again we did get this error on the dash:
Rebooting both methods did not clear it. I rolled down the window and did the power off and then came back about 15 minutes later and it had cleared.
Last edited:
I should have an extra set of cables that I didn't end up using on my car; will confirm once I get home.
You need 4 OEM cables? 3 (plug <-> plug, jack <-> jack, plug<->plug) to make the connection from front camera to switcher, 1 (plug <-> plug) to go from rear camera feed to the switcher?
That would be phenomenal and super cool of you!
Do I need 4 OEM cables? I was under the assumption I would need the 3 cables below, but will purchase however many is required.
2 x "Jack to Jack (Blue)" Tesla PN 1006782-00-E or 1006780-00-D
1 x "Plug to Plug (Blue)" Tesla PN 1006781-00-E
Apologies, I mixed up my "plugs" and "jacks" in my last post. Those 3 cables are correct, and would give you a too-long, but correct gendered assembly to connect the new front camera to the camera switcher. You then still need one additional "jack to jack" cable to connect the rear camera feed to your camera switcher; the correct one depends on if you have AP2/AP2.5 or no AP/AP1. (Pre AP or AP1 can use just another 1006782-00-E cable, AP2/AP2.5 wants a black connector version, 1007779-00-D. So 4 cables total if you're getting them from Tesla (as opposed to 2 if you got a "custom" set.
I checked at home last night, I have one spare "Plug to Plug (Blue)" Tesla PN 1006781-00-E, and one spare Jack to Jack (Blue), Tesla PN 1006782-00-E. So not quite enough for a full set unfortunately. I can ask my local SC if I can buy a few more (If I ever get my car back from service....)
Oh that's a bummer. I do appreciate you checking though.
If you're willing to part with the 1006781-00-E and 1006782-00-E cables you have, I'll purchase them from you. I will then just need to see where I can source the additional Tesla PN 1006782-00-E and 1007779-00-D for AP2.5.
Out of curiosity, do you know what the genders and lengths of the custom sets were?
The custom cables I had made are 1m and 3.4m in length. (Both a bit longer than needed, but gives you a bit more flexibility as to where things get installed).
They have "Z" coded (universal) connectors, and are "Jack to Jack" cables. OEM part numbers LD5-101-1000-Z-Z and LD5-101-3400-Z-Z. Dacar 535 cable. The Z coding means they can plug into all cars / configurations without issue (Z can plug into both blue and black connectors).
I strongly recommend OE cables over 3rd party ones due to signal integrity, but if you do with with non-OE cable make sure they use genuine Dacar 535 for the cable type (and not no name/knock off).
They have "Z" coded (universal) connectors, and are "Jack to Jack" cables. OEM part numbers LD5-101-1000-Z-Z and LD5-101-3400-Z-Z. Dacar 535 cable. The Z coding means they can plug into all cars / configurations without issue (Z can plug into both blue and black connectors).
I strongly recommend OE cables over 3rd party ones due to signal integrity, but if you do with with non-OE cable make sure they use genuine Dacar 535 for the cable type (and not no name/knock off).
I have a spare 1m cable that @appleguru made. I'd be happy to sell it to someone that needs one. Pm me.
I really appreciate the info. Looks like I am going to have to attempt to make my own cables.
You definitely don’t want to “make your own”; they will never work. To properly make them requires very, very expensive equipment.
When I say “made” I meant “had made for me by the manufacturer”. These are high speed data signals that we are already pushing the limits of...
Agree on that. Making you own cables is a nearly impossible task. When I first conceived the idea for a rear camera masquerading as a front camera I tried making making my own cables. That proved to be a very bad idea, as were my original PCB circuits I homemade. Things got much better when I got professional help
Guys I need help... spent the last 1.5hrs trying to figure out what I am doing wrong...
I have all 3 kits: @artsci | @BearBu | @appleguru
I’ve installed bearbu’s kit as a stand alone and everything works fine.
I’ve installed artsci’s and Appleguru’s kit as a stand-alone and I can’t get it to switch to the front camera
The problem I am encountering is that the display is only showing the rear camera, but I do hear it switch between front and rear. When I go from Reverse to Drive or the other way around I hear a click, but the camera does not switch to the front.
Even when I’m parked and am in Camera mode, Pressing the right menu button under the scroll wheel nothing happens.
I’ve verified that all connections are secure as well...
I have a 2018 MS w/ AP2.5.
The black APE cable goes into the Display port, the front port is connected to the front camera, and the rear cable is connected to the rear port back into the AP Unit.
Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?
I have all 3 kits: @artsci | @BearBu | @appleguru
I’ve installed bearbu’s kit as a stand alone and everything works fine.
I’ve installed artsci’s and Appleguru’s kit as a stand-alone and I can’t get it to switch to the front camera
The problem I am encountering is that the display is only showing the rear camera, but I do hear it switch between front and rear. When I go from Reverse to Drive or the other way around I hear a click, but the camera does not switch to the front.
Even when I’m parked and am in Camera mode, Pressing the right menu button under the scroll wheel nothing happens.
I’ve verified that all connections are secure as well...
I have a 2018 MS w/ AP2.5.
The black APE cable goes into the Display port, the front port is connected to the front camera, and the rear cable is connected to the rear port back into the AP Unit.
Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?
Did you pair your remote yet? Try switching with that once. Alternatively, try applying 12v briefly to the SW2 input on the camera switcher; that should get it in the right mode and allow you to switch.
Also, just to confirm, what colors are flashing on the “Panda” when you plug in the can bus kit? (Can you share a photo of it plugged in?)
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