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ElectricIAC
Good-Natured Rascal
jelloslug
Active Member
Has anyone who installed these got any insight as to where I can find the connection for the rear camera? I don't want a "front camera" at present, but what I DO want is to install the Beatsonic HDMI mirroring solution. It's similar to this in that it's a switch that sits in between the display and the camera and chooses whether to display the camera feed or an HDMI feed from your phone. I just haven't pulled the trigger yet because I don't know how involved it is getting to that camera cable. The only instructions they have are for an X, but I understand that's quite a bit different than the S.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
Not sure where you want to connect to. The original instructions had you splice into a video cable over on the drivers side. On my MX I had to do it behind the MCU (you can see those instructions and picture earlier in this thread). Attached is the MS instructions so you don't have to find them.
I have an S. For reference, this is what I want to install: Tesla Model S and X Smartphone Mirroring Kit
I only bring it up here because functionality it seems like it's just the same as this. It's an appliance that interrupts the feed between the MCU and the camera, and is controlled from the OBD port by a steering wheel button.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
2014 P85D here with AP1. Had no problem whatsoever upgrading to MCU2.
Absolutley NO SPLICING is needed for the video cable. The only splicing required was for +12v switched power, and if you use the OBDII port, you don't even need to do that.
That's the point of the three terminals on the actual switch. Input is the feed from the rear camera, the feed from the new front camera, and output to the MCU. All Fakra connectors. No splicing.
S is much easier than the X to access the cable for the backup camera; there is a splice in the driver footwell.
aesculus
Still Trying to Figure This All Out
No issues at all. I had them do the Infotainment Upgrade 2 weeks ago. I never mentioned I installed the kit. They never mentioned they saw the kit.
Thanks @Russell and @HankLloydRight
DId you guys installed the main box to the left of your steering wheel or you used the FAKRA cable to give you some slack and install it behind the MCU?
DId you guys installed the main box to the left of your steering wheel or you used the FAKRA cable to give you some slack and install it behind the MCU?
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
I believe the original question was "where's the cable/connection/place to disconnect the feed from the rear camera so something else can be plugged in. If that is accurate, "where":
On 2012-2014 with AP0 (no AP) the rear camera cable comes up the inside floor side driver side. Behind the driver side kick panel, there's a black cable with a blue connector "Fakra connector" just as Hank said.
On late 2016 and 2017, (don't know about 2018) because late 2016 and 2017 have AP2, the cable comes up the right side/passenger side under the dash but over the top of the glove box, so it can plug into the APE (engine). Then the feed TO the center console display comes OUT of the AP engine module, Its not hard to back track the cable from center console display over to the APE.
I can add that when I had my camera-switch installed on my 2017, I unplugged the rear camera cable from the APE, and plugged it into the camera switch. Plugged the front camera into the switch and a short cable from the switch into the APE. It all worked, but Summon was impacted. When I left the car with the front camera engaged/showing on the display Summon wound not work, because it was confused. It was expecting rear camera, so it could not come to me.
Since I have some time to explain this,
Anyone using the "artsci" switch might find this useful info. The camera switch has three inputs on the small green connector. 1. Ground. 2. 12volt 3. 12volt toggled. Number 3 can be a persistent connection, but its purpose is to "toggle" between front and rear view. Its clever the way its designed. It originally was a feed from the backup light.
The camera's switches default view to the display is for the "front camera" (whatever is plugged into the front camera port". When the car was put into Reverse, the #3 terminal get 12V from the backup lights, because when the car is place in Reverse, the backup lights come on. So, when the switch gets this "jolt" I am going to call it, of 12V its flips the screen to the rear camera.. When the car is put in Park or Drive, the power is taken away and it switches back to front camera.
When we first installed the camera switch in 2012-2014 S's, we knew the color of the reverse wire in the wiring harness under the carpet on the passenger side. (Someone helped artsci figure this out. And we could run a tap from that wire to the switch. And it worked great. When I got my 2017 and tried to install the front camera switch, the harness colored wires were different and not located in the same place. So, I could not find a backup light wire to tap. But what I experimented with was adding a push button momentary switch on the steering column. I ran 12V persistent to the momentary switch and on to the camera switch #3 terminal. When I was in the car, with the display lit/up, I could press the momentary switch once and switch the camera between front and rear. Didn't matter where it was, press, display changed. Press, display changed. It worked but not fun, to remember to do, when I wanted rear or front.
And then, I like to think that I had an Model S 2017 epiphany!! I tested without installing then went back and installed (added a wire). I ran a single strand wire from the switch in the front of the car, to the rear and tapped into the wire going to the backup light. This was in effect the same as using a wire from the harness under the carpet we could use in 2014. It worked. So, I routed a single pair run of light weight (about 22 gauge) speaker wire from the camera switch to the backup lights. It went from the front location of the camera switch behind the glove box; down the A pillar; behind the kick panel; along the passenger side of the car; tucked along the edge of the carpet; up behind the rear seat; into the C pillar; thru the rubber cushion grommet, that protects the wires from the body, into the liftgate; along the liftgate side to the rear of the liftgate and to the back up light. Remember, the backup lights are in the liftgate. (Drank a well-earned adult beverage.) And put all the trim back in place. Only needed one half of the pair from the backup light wire to the camera switch. So, the other half of the pair was a spare.
Now, putting the S in Reverse changed the display to rear camera and into Park/Drive back to front camera.
My point is the camera switch simply needs a "jolt" of 12V to toggle it from front to rear, rear to front, if that's all you need to do.
@appleguru, Hey dude, good to see you posting here. Hope you are doing okay.
On 2012-2014 with AP0 (no AP) the rear camera cable comes up the inside floor side driver side. Behind the driver side kick panel, there's a black cable with a blue connector "Fakra connector" just as Hank said.
On late 2016 and 2017, (don't know about 2018) because late 2016 and 2017 have AP2, the cable comes up the right side/passenger side under the dash but over the top of the glove box, so it can plug into the APE (engine). Then the feed TO the center console display comes OUT of the AP engine module, Its not hard to back track the cable from center console display over to the APE.
I can add that when I had my camera-switch installed on my 2017, I unplugged the rear camera cable from the APE, and plugged it into the camera switch. Plugged the front camera into the switch and a short cable from the switch into the APE. It all worked, but Summon was impacted. When I left the car with the front camera engaged/showing on the display Summon wound not work, because it was confused. It was expecting rear camera, so it could not come to me.
Since I have some time to explain this,
Anyone using the "artsci" switch might find this useful info. The camera switch has three inputs on the small green connector. 1. Ground. 2. 12volt 3. 12volt toggled. Number 3 can be a persistent connection, but its purpose is to "toggle" between front and rear view. Its clever the way its designed. It originally was a feed from the backup light.
The camera's switches default view to the display is for the "front camera" (whatever is plugged into the front camera port". When the car was put into Reverse, the #3 terminal get 12V from the backup lights, because when the car is place in Reverse, the backup lights come on. So, when the switch gets this "jolt" I am going to call it, of 12V its flips the screen to the rear camera.. When the car is put in Park or Drive, the power is taken away and it switches back to front camera.
When we first installed the camera switch in 2012-2014 S's, we knew the color of the reverse wire in the wiring harness under the carpet on the passenger side. (Someone helped artsci figure this out. And we could run a tap from that wire to the switch. And it worked great. When I got my 2017 and tried to install the front camera switch, the harness colored wires were different and not located in the same place. So, I could not find a backup light wire to tap. But what I experimented with was adding a push button momentary switch on the steering column. I ran 12V persistent to the momentary switch and on to the camera switch #3 terminal. When I was in the car, with the display lit/up, I could press the momentary switch once and switch the camera between front and rear. Didn't matter where it was, press, display changed. Press, display changed. It worked but not fun, to remember to do, when I wanted rear or front.
And then, I like to think that I had an Model S 2017 epiphany!! I tested without installing then went back and installed (added a wire). I ran a single strand wire from the switch in the front of the car, to the rear and tapped into the wire going to the backup light. This was in effect the same as using a wire from the harness under the carpet we could use in 2014. It worked. So, I routed a single pair run of light weight (about 22 gauge) speaker wire from the camera switch to the backup lights. It went from the front location of the camera switch behind the glove box; down the A pillar; behind the kick panel; along the passenger side of the car; tucked along the edge of the carpet; up behind the rear seat; into the C pillar; thru the rubber cushion grommet, that protects the wires from the body, into the liftgate; along the liftgate side to the rear of the liftgate and to the back up light. Remember, the backup lights are in the liftgate. (Drank a well-earned adult beverage.) And put all the trim back in place. Only needed one half of the pair from the backup light wire to the camera switch. So, the other half of the pair was a spare.
Now, putting the S in Reverse changed the display to rear camera and into Park/Drive back to front camera.
My point is the camera switch simply needs a "jolt" of 12V to toggle it from front to rear, rear to front, if that's all you need to do.
@appleguru, Hey dude, good to see you posting here. Hope you are doing okay.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
There's a ton of space to the left of the steering wheel behind the trim panel -- a cavern of space. I have other stuff in there as well -- a power distribution block to feed my front camera, radar detector/laser jammer, PWS, dashcam, and dedicated radar countermeasure cell phone. It's also very easy to access to maintain. Behind the MCU would be a PIA to get there if something needs attention. And since it's all powered by the OBDII port, I can remove it all in just a few minutes without a trace.
Never heard that "technical definition" of SPLICE before.
Never heard that "technical definition" of SPLICE before.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
There's also the 433mHz remote control to switch between front and rear cameras, which you can also program into one of the Homelink locations. I've done both, as well as the reverse line for automatic switching.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
@S-ALSET, I am not answering for them, but from my experience. you are going to need to install it at the left end of the dash. Probably after you pop off the crazy 4-ish side dash end panel of the dash. There's enough room front the end of the dash to slide it in. But you might have to attach the cable after you place the switch inside the dash. From under the dash, the FM Radio mounting bracket interferes with access up under the dash to behind the dash. (Hope that makes sense). But the main reason for right here at the end of the dash, is the rear camera cable length is limited. You will need to unplug the black cable from the blue (with purple insert) connector, and there's not very much length from the rear camera cable left to plug into the switch. Its tight. And that's why you will likely have to get the switch hidden behind the dash and plug the cable into it then. The front camera cable plugs into the switch. And as I recall, I think you need a gender changer/short cable to convert the end of the cable going to the center display in order to plug it into the camera switch.
By the way, a tip that I picked up from @appleguru. If you use a pick, you can carefully remove the purple clip on the Fakra connector, and side the blue outside of the connector off the cable. This is a game-charger if you are trying to thread that big clumsy connector thru a small hole. Makes all the difference. Then carefully slide the blue then the purple clip back in. NOTE: Notice where the connectors align, there's a flat corner reference.
There's not enough rear camera cable length to reach the 18+ inches to be back of the MCU. Besides, there's no extra room behind the MCU. There's a little room if you stuff something up behind the MCU after removing the cubby so you can access that area. I've removed my MCU a couple of times. Not much room back there. I replaced the cable from the MCU to the USB ports in the arm rest, but that's another story.
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Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Yes, that's accurate. That too is a good idea. Nice to have alternate ways to get this done. Thanks for that. I had forgotten that. I now suffer from CRS. (Can't Remember S**t).
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