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When in doubt, add another PW.Compatibility alone is just one issue, you need to have an understanding of the aggregate load during the times you want or expect the AC to run in backup mode. PW put out about ~30A realistically 28.5A, the sure start also varies, if you base the reduction on the maximum value they advertise you will be in for trouble. This all comes with experience and testing on different compressors and I don't think most of these companies have done their own due diligence so they make a lot of assumptions and put a bad taste in customers mouth when it does not work.
Nothing? Hmm I’m going to have to wait until the CT comes out to refute that on levels from energy to spaceX to multiple gigas.Nothing in Tesla Solar offering except SG is vertically integrated. They are buying the market.
When in doubt, add another PW.
So is there a resource, once you determine your A/C unit, which technology works with it? With just the number of posts on this thread its clear the issue is not some sort of a secret. Its also clear that one can find installers or customer service people who do not know, but who does know?
What they need is competent customer service and better after sale support.
lol, that will just about solve any issue at a cost $$$
You need to educate yourself first and foremost. You know what you have in your home, do your own due diligence. Sadly the best way is to build your own system and depend less on sales people and incompetence at these companies.
I can guarantee you no installer or Tesla will do this or has done this b/c they use the MFG spec and take a best guess just on specs.
Education is definitely required if designing your own system. Its a good idea regardless with a large purchase regardless.
Some choose to pay someone to go the extra mile and look at these design questions. Low cost comes at a price. Doing your own system design and measurements is one option.
Your idea to measure at dawn and dusk is the hard way to do it. All smart meters report the actual draw every 15 minutes. All you need to do is buy the interval data set, and dump it into a spreadsheet. From there you can pretty well see what your house pulls as a max. Also likely you will see the deltas from when the AC turns on during the mid day and afternoon.
Good luck with the free Powerwall. Regardless, I hope you get to a place of satisfaction.
It also appears, from some very inexact research, that the number of residential (and probably commercial for that matter) installations dwarfs the number of homes with battery back up and solar.
Unlike the auto division, Tesla energy does not make every component of the system, and of course they actually acquired a solar company. I need to educate myself on this issue and af88s outline looks great, but I would say that its not surprising in any field where the the particular problem is limited to some small fraction (it looks like whole home battery + solar was less than 1% of all solar installations) of the area.
With the recent price drop, its only now that enough people are considering solar systems to run an entire house that this issue has a chance of making it to the level of common knowledge of the industry.
Indeed, research is required. Especially since once a system is installed whether or not the A/C is connected is not something to easily turn on or off.
This is the second such issue I have found, the first being the fact that if you don't have "enough" powerwalls, the whole system can shut off in a grid outage.
I'm not sure of the granularity of those reports but that is certainly another option. I would caution though the inrush will always be higher than max so a sure way to know is to actually flip the breaker at the MSP and compare it to the max. This obviously depends on those appliances etc you would normally use if they power on immediately or not.
Certainly the inrush current is higher than the operating. We typically trust the LRA of the manufacturer spec, and don't make any assumptions about the Sure start reduction, or even the compressor compatibility. We also do not install the sure starts ourselves, for the reasons pointed out in this thread. If 29A x #of powerwalls is not larger than the LRA of the compressor we advise it wont start that AC, but it may with the addition of a Sure Start if its within 20-30%.
We have an HVAC shop come out and install any sure starts. We do not promise that any particular load will start after being bitten by a home elevator throwing a whole 2 Powerwall system into fits. We ended up fully refunding that customer, and removing the system. 4 months later they signed up again with 4 Powerwalls which does start the elevator. We applied for SGIP resiliency program funds, so most of it was totally paid for under medical exemption.
There is too much variability in a customers load profile over the year. The customers typically not understand these nuances either. Also equipment will draw more with age and temperature, so that's another factor out of our control.
That Tesla website with the LRA spec <134 and 2 PW is completely incorrect, ask me how I know lol.
Do your measurements as i described and you will know exactly how many PW(s) you will need with and without a soft start device for your home. The key is those numbers not advertised specs.
For what it’s worth, my installers seemed to take this issue seriously. I have four powerwalls, so it’s perhaps less of an issue, but I happened to be outside while they were discussing my heat pump compressor. They looked at the LRA number on the label and they even connected an ammeter to the compressor and watched as it cycled on, then based on those numbers and the fact I was getting four powerwalls they determined that I would not need a soft start unit. Additionally, when they had completed the install they verified that the compressor was able to successfully start while the house was running on the powerwalls.