I was thinking of posting some lowering link 3D patterns on
thingiverse like I did for this dashcam mount (Classic Model S mirror mount).
To make it real simple, rather than adjustable links offering a set of different
fixed length links to download and print the height you want, pop off the old links pop on the new. No fuss an no dial-in adjustments. Of course, you'd have to be happy with your current calibration and you won't be able to fine tune it out... but if you're wildly off in a corner like I was, you could print just one link in the next plus size up or minus size down to correct just that corner.
Thinking sets ranging from -2mm through to +8mm in 2mm increments should do most needs.
-2mm would raise the car (48mm ball centers front, 68mm ball centers rear)
0 difference, stock link replacements (50mm front and 70mm rear)
+2mm would lower the car (52/72 centers)
+4mm lower it more (54/74)
+6mm lower yet (56/76)
+8mm lowest (58/78) these would start to look dramatically lower, probably for show, not daily driving.
Mix and match at different ends of the car, or do whatever funky thing you need.
Having a stock length set means you can return the car to stock (if you lose the original links) which is useful prior to bringing the car into SC when they might be recalibrating your ride height (after drive train work). If they recalibrate on lowered links you'll get a standard height car back... you'd have to upsize the links again to get lower.. a game of diminishing returns and shrinking space to grow links.
Because this is for Model S, the rear (longer) links must fit balls pointing in opposite directions on the car. It's hard to print ball cups opening downward on the print bed, without a lot of supports inside the ball yuck. Instead of designing closed cups for the rear, I'd slice off the top of the cup - so it is open to snap onto a ball from either side of the link. These would look like "forks" that grab around a ball rather than cups that snap over the ball covering it. I tried this as a previous generation design and they do grab quite nicely. And since these are for the rear, and there's LOTS of space to install, I'd put a reinforcing beam around the ends... as additional holding power. Look a bit funny, but stronger...
The front links can be printed with full cups at both ends, because the balls face the same way on the car, both ends can be printed with cups opening upward.
ABS recommended. I find thicker layers (0.3mm) make a stronger product, yet they are uglier but so what. I'd like to hear your success with Nylon if you try that.
