3D Printed Rigid Hatch Stops (to reduce uneven road noise)

[MyEarHurts]

Made them out of PETG. They look good. Thanks for uploading the files for everyone!

I’m going to make a support for the lower mounts next since they have none.

Did you print all of them in the file or just one of the designs above in the file? If so which one did you print?

If I'm not up for investing $300 for a 3d printer/supplies, I might remove the plastic nut on the bump stop and put a 3/4'' pvc pipe instead.

 

[MattM24]

Did you print all of them in the file or just one of the designs above in the file? If so which one did you print?

If I'm not up for investing $300 for a 3d printer/supplies, I might remove the plastic nut on the bump stop and put a 3/4'' pvc pipe instead.

I just printed the 10mm one. There are 3D print shops out there that could print it for you. Not sure what they charge.

The rubber bumper is closer to 7/8” than to 3/4”, so if you go with PVC, you’ll need to drill it out.

 

[MyEarHurts]

FYI OP: I went to the link and it gave me a 404 error at thingiverse.

So far I took a 3/4'' pvc cap and took a dremel to bore it out, just the flare nut part was able to fit (think of a big plastic nut). It rests on the plastic stop holder on the hatch, with everything turned down, the stopper doesn't protrude enough through the hole on the flare so I'm thinking I could further reduce it by extending the rubber past the hole in the plastic nut or using the 3d printed ones. I do notice an improvement.

For the 10mm, did you turn your rubber stops all the way down before putting it on?

Next project is to put a pvc pipe over the plastic stop holder, kind of like making one with pvc rather than buying a printer as I feel not everyone will want to go through all this.

 

[MattM24]

FYI OP: I went to the link and it gave me a 404 error at thingiverse.

So far I took a 3/4'' pvc cap and took a dremel to bore it out, just the flare nut part was able to fit (think of a big plastic nut). It rests on the plastic stop holder on the hatch, with everything turned down, the stopper doesn't protrude enough through the hole on the flare so I'm thinking I could further reduce it by extending the rubber past the hole in the plastic nut or using the 3d printed ones. I do notice an improvement.

For the 10mm, did you turn your rubber stops all the way down before putting it on?

Next project is to put a pvc pipe over the plastic stop holder, kind of like making one with pvc rather than buying a printer as I feel not everyone will want to go through all this.

I set all the bumpers so they would hold a piece of paper. I ground about 1mm off the end of the 10mm printed piece.

I had the same 404 issue with trying to download all the files at once, but didn’t have an issue downloading them one by one.

Let us know how the PVC goes.

 

[ilovecoffee]

FYI OP: I went to the link and it gave me a 404 error at thingiverse.

So far I took a 3/4'' pvc cap and took a dremel to bore it out, just the flare nut part was able to fit (think of a big plastic nut). It rests on the plastic stop holder on the hatch, with everything turned down, the stopper doesn't protrude enough through the hole on the flare so I'm thinking I could further reduce it by extending the rubber past the hole in the plastic nut or using the 3d printed ones. I do notice an improvement.

For the 10mm, did you turn your rubber stops all the way down before putting it on?

Next project is to put a pvc pipe over the plastic stop holder, kind of like making one with pvc rather than buying a printer as I feel not everyone will want to go through all this.

Link works for me. But Thingiverse is a buggy website.

I adjusted all my stoppers with the envelope/paper method BEFORE adding this. The varying sizes correspond with the depth of the calibrated stopper.

Definitely not a project to GET a 3d printer for. This is if you already have one or access to one. I could send you some but I'm in Canada so not sure how long it would take to reach you.

 

[labmixz]

Definitely not a project to GET a 3d printer for. This is if you already have one or access to one. I could send you some but I'm in Canada so not sure how long it would take to reach you.

eh, depends on the person... I bought a 3d printer to print shelf supports for my shed, now I have 5 printers
Also, you can get a decent printer for <=$200 these days, esp. with sales going on this month. If someone was already looking at them and needed the push, I say go for it.

 

[mbdionio]

I wish these can be offered to purchase for those who dont have access to a 3d printer.

 

[labmixz]

I wish these can be offered to purchase for those who dont have access to a 3d printer.

I would say, go through a reputable service, if you don't have a 3d printer, to have said item printed.

Craftcloud - https://craftcloud3d.com/
Shapeways - 3D Printing Service | Shapeways
Sculpteo - Sculpteo | Online 3D Printing Service for your 3D designs
Polar Cloud - Polar Cloud
Treatstock - Treatstock
Print-a-Thing - Custom 3D Printing Service from Print a Thing
i.makerialise - Online 3D Printing Service | i.materialise

There are probably a dozen more.

 

[ilovecoffee]

This is all very interesting and the 3D printing is impressive! I'm scheduled to get my Y in December...is this "booming" issue still happening with newer Y's?

My delivery was in September, so probably. Not all of it has to do with the hatch though. This problem seems to be systemic to EVs and rear-mounted motors.

There’s not much room in there. The bumper is 22.1mm in diameter and I managed to fit a 1.6mm thick wall. It was tough to get on, needed lubricant. I made them 17mm long, but they could be longer. It managed to cut the side to side movement by half, so we’ll see if it does anything. Unfortunately, I also put on my winter wheels today, so my data point is skewed.
It’s such a tight spot, it might need a metal support to last. Time will tell.






I believe they helped. I just printed the longest one 10mm and ground it down to about 9mm.
I didn’t measure the sound before and after though. It’s worth printing and trying, if you have access to a 3D printer.

I tried this, it's a tricky area, this spot, as you figured out. It's not quite straight I don't think. But this is what I came up with. I haven't driven with it, but I don't know if I'll discernibly be able to tell a difference. Maybe it's better than nothing. Tinkercad link

 

[Innervate]

@ilovecoffee thanks for turning this road noise business into science by making the stl files available I have honestly got used to the uneven road noise by now (owner since Sept 2020), but I am really curious how much this would help. Vancouver's road can be very bad! Going to start with the outer stoppers first.

I plan to get them printed at my local library and I am new to 3d printing. If you don't mind me asking -- how much infill % would you recommend? I am thinking 50 or 60% infill, but I am unsure if that's ideal. (Material cost / printing time is not an issue.) Thanks!

PS: Library uses 0.25mm nozzles, and PLA.

 

[MattM24]

@ilovecoffee thanks for turning this road noise business into science by making the stl files available I have honestly got used to the uneven road noise by now (owner since Sept 2020), but I am really curious how much this would help. Vancouver's road can be very bad! Going to start with the outer stoppers first.

I plan to get them printed at my local library and I am new to 3d printing. If you don't mind me asking -- how much infill % would you recommend? I am thinking 50 or 60% infill, but I am unsure if that's ideal. (Material cost / printing time is not an issue.) Thanks!

PS: Library uses 0.25mm nozzles, and PLA.

I printed mine entirely out of shells, so it’s solid.
The software I use, I just put in a high number of shells and 100% fill. Any layer size you can print will be fine.

My delivery was in September, so probably. Not all of it has to do with the hatch though. This problem seems to be systemic to EVs and rear-mounted motors.


I tried this, it's a tricky area, this spot, as you figured out. It's not quite straight I don't think. But this is what I came up with. I haven't driven with it, but I don't know if I'll discernibly be able to tell a difference. Maybe it's better than nothing. Tinkercad link

How did it work out? I’m happy with my results.

 

[ilovecoffee]

I printed mine entirely out of shells, so it’s solid.
The software I use, I just put in a high number of shells and 100% fill. Any layer size you can print will be fine.



How did it work out? I’m happy with my results.

I am left feeling the lower stoppers are best to be left alone (without rigid plastic) for easier tweaking and adjustment. I think most of the weight of the hatch is on the upper stops, and most effected by road bumps. I don't think the lower rigid stops made any difference.

I think with these and after I get my unplugged performance comfort springs (hopefully in January or February) I'll be set in terms of cabin comfort! I should also add I have one of those Amazon cargo covers as well solely for the purpose of noise attenuation.

 

[BayMY]

For the hatch stops, once you have made sure all of them can tightly hold an envelope, do you continue to spin them out to further reduce the amount of travel the trunk hatch may take? Mine make contact on all four corners currently and it seems to have helped a little.

I also plan on installing some 5/16" tubing in the weather seal and then re-adjusting the stops before getting the rigid hatch stops. Just want to make sure I have them at the right distance before printing anything.

 

[ilovecoffee]

For the hatch stops, once you have made sure all of them can tightly hold an envelope, do you continue to spin them out to further reduce the amount of travel the trunk hatch may take? Mine make contact on all four corners currently and it seems to have helped a little.

I also plan on installing some 5/16" tubing in the weather seal and then re-adjusting the stops before getting the rigid hatch stops. Just want to make sure I have them at the right distance before printing anything.

For me it would grip the envelope/folded paper quite tightly and almost but not quite rip it.

After putting vinyl tubing in the weather seal I needed a completely different set of rigid hatch stops due to the change in height.

I think when you have both tubing and rigid hatch stops it's a little more forgiving in the exact adjustment.

You'd definitely want to wait to print them until you put in vinyl tubing if that's what you plan on doing (totally recommend it).

 

[PecuniaNonOlet]

@ilovecoffee, mind if I pick your brain a bit? Is there a reason you created this part to fit over the OEM stopper rather than replacing the OEM stopper entirely? Is it because you wouldn't trust the strength of printed threads or don't have the hardware to print something at that small size? Or maybe there's no way to position it on the bed without supports potentially deforming the threads?

 

[ilovecoffee]

@ilovecoffee, mind if I pick your brain a bit? Is there a reason you created this part to fit over the OEM stopper rather than replacing the OEM stopper entirely? Is it because you wouldn't trust the strength of printed threads or don't have the hardware to print something at that small size? Or maybe there's no way to position it on the bed without supports potentially deforming the threads?

I thought about it but the best way to add rigidity is to put more force against the sheet metal surrounding the plastic nut. If somehow I had a super strong 3D printed threaded stopper, it wouldn't have much surface contact to put hatch movement forces against.

And also mostly they would be extremely fragile! Haha

 

[PecuniaNonOlet]

Thanks for the reply. I would just create the part I have in mind, print it, and try it, but first I would need to learn Blender and buy a printer. So before that I'm trying to sanity check my idea.

I'm attaching a diagram. I think the confusion may come from talking about threads. For my idea the threads would only be used to screw the part all the way into the hatch (and hold it there...more on that later). So the large hatch-side face of the part would be flush with the hatch sheet metal. The part is basically a solid block the length of the desired distance between the hatch sheet metal and the stopper mating block on the other side. Which will probably be different for the two sides of the hatch even on the same vehicle as we have discovered. But a little trial and error should suffice to get the length right.

I found this Formlabs video about printing parts with threads:

That's SLA, but the start of the video seems to suggest it should be possible even with less expensive hardware if the threads are big enough and you're printing ABS or maybe nylon. Problem then is the very bottommost part of the thread which is holding the part in the hatch by tension may break and then you have a very nonrigid stopper! On the plus side, I'm sure you've seen it, there is a thread guide cut out of the sheet metal right next to the stopper hole in the hatch. So maybe the thread on the replacement stopper could be considerably wider than on the OEM part. But whether that would translate to greater strength I don't know.

Let me know if you can shoot this down. Otherwise I may be tempted to try it.

 

[Montucky]

Great idea. I'm picking up my car on 03/01. I'll design up a full threaded version of this so that you can replace the entire bumper (Product design is my business). I'll also see if there's a way to make the length adjustable as well so that you can "tune" the contact point. Part of me hopes that I don't have any booming issues, but I think I probably will!

 

[ilovecoffee]

Thanks for the reply. I would just create the part I have in mind, print it, and try it, but first I would need to learn Blender and buy a printer. So before that I'm trying to sanity check my idea.

I'm attaching a diagram. I think the confusion may come from talking about threads. For my idea the threads would only be used to screw the part all the way into the hatch (and hold it there...more on that later). So the large hatch-side face of the part would be flush with the hatch sheet metal. The part is basically a solid block the length of the desired distance between the hatch sheet metal and the stopper mating block on the other side. Which will probably be different for the two sides of the hatch even on the same vehicle as we have discovered. But a little trial and error should suffice to get the length right.

I found this Formlabs video about printing parts with threads:

That's SLA, but the start of the video seems to suggest it should be possible even with less expensive hardware if the threads are big enough and you're printing ABS or maybe nylon. Problem then is the very bottommost part of the thread which is holding the part in the hatch by tension may break and then you have a very nonrigid stopper! On the plus side, I'm sure you've seen it, there is a thread guide cut out of the sheet metal right next to the stopper hole in the hatch. So maybe the thread on the replacement stopper could be considerably wider than on the OEM part. But whether that would translate to greater strength I don't know.

Let me know if you can shoot this down. Otherwise I may be tempted to try it.

If I'm understanding this correctly, wouldn't also be non-adjustable? I feel like the only benefit going this route is to end up with an adjustable rigid solution.

I'm no expert in CAD design but I did figure out enough in Fusion to take my part from Tinkerlabs into a Fusion cad drawing with configurable variables.

 

[ilovecoffee]

Great idea. I'm picking up my car on 03/01. I'll design up a full threaded version of this so that you can replace the entire bumper (Product design is my business). I'll also see if there's a way to make the length adjustable as well so that you can "tune" the contact point. Part of me hopes that I don't have any booming issues, but I think I probably will!

Awesome! I'd love to see an adjustable non-fragile 3d printed part that fits in the hole of the original bumper. FDM preferred! I think PETG would be pretty tough enough.