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400v Controller upgrade - GS Technology

jason.tv

Member
Feb 13, 2020
411
380
Florida
I have received the 400v controller upgrade from GS Technology and everything works perfect; I tested the heat, cool ac, and took for a spin and car is charging perfectly.

As I am the first person from the USA to do this I wanted to share information in order to make this process a little more simple for other people. The process took about 3 weeks to ship off and get the package in return; I literally grew 2 new grey hairs but i'll leave that photo out. :eek:

Discussing with other members of the community one of the main issues with the roadsters is the 400v controllers fail after some time. It's been realized that the current HVAC controller board they created for the Tesla Roadster is no good; I wouldn't say no good as it's still working and I had no issues with mine; however, no one thought these cars would still be operable 10 years in time and here we are.

Also discussing with members one has seen three controllers needing replaced in the passed month and possibly more from other peoples threads in the passed month.

What is the 400v controller for people not tech savvy? It's what converts the 400v DC electricity to 12v in order to power various things like the AC, Stereo, Fans, Radiator, Pump, and other components in the car. This is why if something is wrong with the controller or goes bad you can't charge the car since the power is linked to the 400v controller.

The controller solves Error codes #273 and #276 - BSM: V_ess too low at end of precharge

The conductors on the board are now two way instead of one way; so if something faults with the 400v controller you will still be able to charge the car as the 12v conversion conductors is separate from the other connections.

Supposedly the unit is better sealed from humidity once closed up as well.

You can contact me if any questions.

-----------------------

EN:
we had this issue of defective Eberspächer's HVAC very often, especially the last 2 years.
The newly developed version from us has the following advantages compared to the original Tesla (Eberspächer) version:

internal separated Precharge
-> this means that the vehicle is always ready to drive, regardless with or without PTC heating
-> if the PTC heater really fails, it is guaranteed that you can still drive and charge.
Light pipe instead of the LED in the housing
-> Known problems of the HVAC are "BSM Isolation Faults" after washing the vehicle
-> our new version has an optical fiber connection and is electrically separated from the housing
new power devices in SMT Technology
- > the new power semiconductors are all integrated on the circuit board (PCB), no risk of insulation faults to the housing
-> the semiconductors have much better electrical and thermal characteristics
Left / right hand drive compatible
-> the differences left- / right-hand drive are only in the vehicle position / bracket
-> the new HVAC fits both versions (LHD, RHD)

VG / Best Regards eMG

Martin - GS Technology <[email protected]>

-----------------------

Instructions for taking out the 400v controller.

1. Inhibit the car
2. Take the protective plastic cover off for easier access to the bolts.
3. There is only 3 bolts to unscrew and 7 plugs.
4. Disconnect the Black cable first; I assumed this was the power, then the Bonnet cable for the hood close indicator. Car will beep; I guess it's the power or signal of 400v controller disconnecting from VMS
5.White plugs unhook and slide out but do not come out; they slider out to a certain point allowing the Orange plug to be released.
6. When you received back I hooked up in reverse order; Plugs first, then Black power cable last.
7. Success

IMG_9234.JPG
Same 3 bolts just different angle
IMG_9233.JPG

61763697477__48F2A78A-23A8-4BD8-86B5-8F20EA7D9DF7.JPG
IMG_8943 (1).JPG
 

jason.tv

Member
Feb 13, 2020
411
380
Florida
Oh sorry about that; The price is 1,335 Euro to USD so comes out to avg - $1,550 plus shipping which cost me $260.

So figure total cost said and done is around $1,800.
 

ra88it

Member
May 2, 2014
356
124
Southland
While I agree this needs to happen and am thankful that they've come up with a solution, the economics of scale have certainly bit us HARD on this one. 1800USD is quite a chunk of change considering the cost of similar DCDC converters around the same size.
 
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jason.tv

Member
Feb 13, 2020
411
380
Florida
While I agree this needs to happen and am thankful that they've come up with a solution, the economics of scale have certainly bit us HARD on this one. 1800USD is quite a chunk of change considering the cost of similar DCDC converters around the same size.

It's really $980 Euro but the shipping there and back adds up.

When a controller fails the "clock starts ticking" because you typically can't charge the car and owning a roadster which is value and scarcity anyone in this case will "PANIC". So in panic mode the only "NOW" thing to do is take the car into Tesla and hope they can Diagnose the issue; in some cases it does turn out to be the 400v controller in which they replace with a new 400v controller which was the same controller as you had before manufactured in 2008-2009. Which is setup to fail eventually in the near future as the board inside is not reliable.

So they charge you pretty much the same price for the upgrade as tesla charges to replace the entire controller.
 
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ra88it

Member
May 2, 2014
356
124
Southland
It's really $980 Euro but the shipping there and back adds up.

When a controller fails the "clock starts ticking" because you typically can't charge the car and owning a roadster which is value and scarcity anyone in this case will "PANIC". So in panic mode the only "NOW" thing to do is take the car into Tesla and hope they can Diagnose the issue; in some cases it does turn out to be the 400v controller in which they replace with a new 400v controller which was the same controller as you had before manufactured in 2008-2009. Which is setup to fail eventually in the near future as the board inside is not reliable.

So they charge you pretty much the same price for the upgrade as tesla charges to replace the entire controller.
Thankfully, a completely functioning spare roadster is sitting right next to mine...awaiting its date to be taken out of service.
 

jason.tv

Member
Feb 13, 2020
411
380
Florida
Anyone willing to do a group by to potentially get a discount? I plan on doing this upgrade before rainy season here in So Cal.

Highly doubt he would do group discounts, also the communication is in a different language so you have to deal with that as well. I would worry about each own atm.
 
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ML Auto

Member
Mar 8, 2014
731
743
SW Florida
You are incorrect about what the 400V controler does (it is called the HVAC high voltage control module on the wiring diagram). It controls the high voltage that drives the A/C compressor and heating element, along with the 12V for the condensor fans. The APS inside the ESS converts the 400V or so from the battery down to 12V to power the accessories on the car. A fault in any of the high voltage components can shut the car down, and it is one of the weak points.
 
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Sbax

Member
Jun 20, 2020
51
20
Houston, TX
You are incorrect about what the 400V controler does (it is called the HVAC high voltage control module on the wiring diagram). It controls the high voltage that drives the A/C compressor and heating element, along with the 12V for the condensor fans. The APS inside the ESS converts the 400V or so from the battery down to 12V to power the accessories on the car. A fault in any of the high voltage components can shut the car down, and it is one of the weak points.
So how/why does the 400 V controller failing prevent charging of the car?

Also GS Technology doesn't work on the 1.5 Controllers? Is there any plan in the future for them to do so? Do 1.5 cars have the same issues with their controllers, and what are the differences between the 1.5 and 2.5 controllers?
 

X.l.r.8

Supporting Member
Feb 18, 2018
1,494
927
Toronto/Miami
As soon as the 400v shows a fault, like escaping to ground, the car won't charge. Tesla have an emulator that basically takes place of the 400v system so they can fault check. This is where it pays to play nicely with the techs. I had an issue that with the emulator they could charge the car, but it took a while of trial and error to figure it out, they said if the problem arose again to contact them and they would lend me the emulator to charge my car in order to get ti to them and keep my battery safe. That was worth the crate of innis and gunn during last summers heatwave
 
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IslandRoadster

Former Owner of #609
Nov 24, 2018
342
236
Bainbridge Island, WA
Sign me up for group discount if it’s a go. I’m seeing some of these error IDs intermittently.

May be worth contacting @CM_007. I think he may have ordered some in the past and may have insight. He also might be willing to contribute to a bulk order to facilitate a lower price. I cannot speak for him, of course, but I do know Carl knows a deal when he sees it!
 
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pd_australia

Member
Jun 23, 2020
29
22
Sydney
I am preparing to make this change, and thanks for the instructions. I do have some questions though

1. Inhibit the car
>> I assume I disconnect the car from power?
>> what are the risk of doing this? I will need to ship the 400v controller from Australia to Europe and back. Should I be afraid the battery will run out and potentially brick the car? Or is that not going to happen in 3-4 weeks?

2. Take the protective plastic cover off for easier access to the bolts.
3. There is only 3 bolts to unscrew and 7 plugs.
4. Disconnect the Black cable first; I assumed this was the power, then the Bonnet cable for the hood close indicator. Car will beep; I guess it's the power or signal of 400v controller disconnecting from VMS
5.White plugs unhook and slide out but do not come out; they slider out to a certain point allowing the Orange plug to be released.
6. When you received back I hooked up in reverse order; Plugs first, then Black power cable last.
7. Success
>> Is there a "uninhibit" function? or does this happen automatically?
 
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