I recently had 240V outlet installed for the sauna and electrician explained to me that permits are not a must, it is an option that lets you claim an improvement to the house, which may raise the value of the house, but also raise your property taxes... so, he said most people choose not to pull the permit, also b/c there's extra cost.
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60 Amps vs. 80 Amps
- Thread starter TheRealM3
- Start date
SomeJoe7777
Marginally-Known Member
If you have a house fire, and your insurance company finds out that there was electrical work that wasn't permitted and inspected, they have cause to deny your claim. Not saying that they will deny your claim, but you open the door to problems, red tape, delayed payments, no payments, etc.
Pull the permit and get the work inspected. No questions after that.
davewill
Active Member
He said it's up to me whether to pull it. So, no direct cover up, but he probably was misinformed... He also called his boss to check on it.
I felt this might be a bit fishy, but also really did not want to have sauna hardwired, so partly my own fault.
An electrician who doesn't know the law about permits... yikes! Perhaps CO is different than WA, but in WA, if anyone other than the home owner does electrical work like installing a new circuit, a permit and inspection is required. If you're just replacing an outlet that has become loose, you're good to go. A handyman can do that. But new circuits or adding a new receptacle to an existing circuit always requires permits + inspection.
SoundDaTrumpet
Member
+1. Yes, all new branch circuits need inspection. $150 for a EVCS permit is what I paid. I expect to pay $90 the minimum fee for any additional circuits in the home. I guess an EVCS permit does carry an extra premium.
NEC load calculation is a must. I have 200A service, electric oven, all other is gas, and two A/C. This leaves me only 75A for EV charging. (PM me if you need to ball park.) This is limiter #1, next is there a panel visible, if yes, do 1" conduit. If not, think about if it's worth installing a disconnect when flip-flopping between 60A or 80A.
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So I got quotes from 4 places and they ranged between $1,900 - $2,350. While it's a long run (about 95 ft), it's through unfinished part of basement and garage. These electricians sure charge a lot for labor.
I watched some more YouTube videos and decided to go get 4 gauge Romex wires (100 ft) and a 240V 60 amp circuit breaker for about $500 from an electric supply store (they were very helpful). I will run the wires myself and get an electrician to just hook up the wires to the box/breaker as I am not comfortable with that part. My total cost should be less than $700 and I will be future-proof with the 4-3-3 wiring. I didn't want to use higher amp circuit breaker at this point as I will charge overnight and the commute is not long.
I watched some more YouTube videos and decided to go get 4 gauge Romex wires (100 ft) and a 240V 60 amp circuit breaker for about $500 from an electric supply store (they were very helpful). I will run the wires myself and get an electrician to just hook up the wires to the box/breaker as I am not comfortable with that part. My total cost should be less than $700 and I will be future-proof with the 4-3-3 wiring. I didn't want to use higher amp circuit breaker at this point as I will charge overnight and the commute is not long.
Well...you're getting a lot of advice here from people who think too much is still not enough. The 60A breaker supplies the most your car could possibly use. Anything over that can't do anything for you now. It could only be relevant for some kind of future proofing for charging multiple vehicles.
Hi all,
I'm also receiving different kind of estimates, for the Tesla Wall charger. But, before, I take a decision, I'd like to check/ask the following:
Is it okay to use 2-2-2-4 Aluminum SER wire all the way to the wall charger? Using 100 AMP at the main panel, and then 80 AMP or 60 AMP at the sub-panel(or quick disconnect) to the Wall charger?
Note that, from the Main-service-panel to the sub-panel(or quick disconnect) there is a need to run 90 feet cable, and from the sub-panel(or quick disconnect) to the wall charger another 45 feet. Will this meet CA/Santa Clara County Electrical codes?
Thank you
I'm also receiving different kind of estimates, for the Tesla Wall charger. But, before, I take a decision, I'd like to check/ask the following:
Is it okay to use 2-2-2-4 Aluminum SER wire all the way to the wall charger? Using 100 AMP at the main panel, and then 80 AMP or 60 AMP at the sub-panel(or quick disconnect) to the Wall charger?
Note that, from the Main-service-panel to the sub-panel(or quick disconnect) there is a need to run 90 feet cable, and from the sub-panel(or quick disconnect) to the wall charger another 45 feet. Will this meet CA/Santa Clara County Electrical codes?
Thank you
Thank you for your reply.
So, then, will it be okay to do 2-2-2-4 SER cable from the Main Service panel to the Sub-panel(or quick disconnect); and then from the sub-panel(or quick disconnect) to the WC to use 4-4-4 copper? what do you think?
I'm asking this since there is a huge difference from copper to Aluminum wire, and I'm aware that aluminum wire can meet the needs and still be in code with the local regulations.
Thank you
So, then, will it be okay to do 2-2-2-4 SER cable from the Main Service panel to the Sub-panel(or quick disconnect); and then from the sub-panel(or quick disconnect) to the WC to use 4-4-4 copper? what do you think?
I'm asking this since there is a huge difference from copper to Aluminum wire, and I'm aware that aluminum wire can meet the needs and still be in code with the local regulations.
Thank you
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