That is also false. You can always buy parts directly from the service center at a traditional dealer.
I had to replace an engine in a 10 year old Mustang once. Called Ford and had one delivered next day.
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7.5 years from now or 120,000 miles my battery is out of warranty and is dead or serious degraded..
- Thread starter MXWing
- Start date
That is also false. You can always buy parts directly from the service center at a traditional dealer.
I had to replace an engine in a 10 year old Mustang once. Called Ford and had one delivered next day.
thefortunes
Active Member
A couple data points...
There have been plenty of Roadster batteries replaced out of warranty, but the cost ($30k for 70 kWh) is not applicable here since they are different chemistry and hand produced.
Also there are plenty of Model S in excess of 250k miles. My brother is approaching that level and I believe he still has ~ 85% of his original range. I have ~125k miles and 90% of original range.
There are plenty of current options for replacement parts (including batteries) out of warranty. I have replaced a couple door handle parts ($2-$10) and am replacing my charge port this weekend ($50).
ℬête Noire
Active Member
Degradation to even 60%, so maybe 190 mi on a good day, is still a very livable battery for it to be a vehicle use as a solid commuter car. Really that's only a long distance trip impediment and not critical given SC spacing and the network continuing to fill in, so I'm not worried that much about #2.
The question is whether or not the packs will have relatively sudden, abject failure. That past the 120,000 mile (or 100,000 mi for the Lemur and SR) is where the crunch is. I'm not sure we know yet if that is a realistic risk, or if we're almost always going to see a soft ebbing of capacity over time.
Glamisduner
Active Member
I think your best bet will be to pull a battery from a junked car and install it yourself. But perhaps by then there will be some 3rd party shops to help you do the work, and used batteries will be available. It's not really a DIY job from what I have seen in videos.
@2:30
Then this:
@2:30
Then this:
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You _can_, if they have them and you want to pay them to do. But a manufacturer is not required to have them available outside of warranty.
But unadaptabl was suggesting that you'd just scrap your used car, even though putting a used engine into a used car is a cheaper option.
Recently I have seen one case where a battery was replaced that was out of warranty. And Tesla "goodwilled" it, and even upgraded them from a 60 to a 75 without charging for the difference.
chronopc
Active Member
Right now Tesla can't produce the batteries fast enough to produce the cars at the rate they want. Once they reach their target production rate, I don't see why they wouldn't consider building extra battery packs for people who would like to purchase a new one. If this happens in the next 7 years, it'll be just in time for me.
Because they want you to buy a new car and give them more $$$ than a battery replacement would give them. Also, they can't even make enough batteries to meet there demand now, i don't see that changing.
Most ICE cars will go 100K and that works out to approx 8 years at 12K/year. The BEV warranty definitely exceeds the ICE warranty that's usually 4yr/50K or 5yr/60K. But that said, the question should be whether the BEV car depreciates to zero because it *MUST* have a new battery pack versus the oil leaking ICE that will still chug along. A lot of ICE cars go 200K from certain manufacturers and provide significant transportation value in the used car market to the frugal buyer. I'm not sure that can be said for the BEV. Time will tell.
As to what Tesla makes in 2025, I'd say that's worrying too far out into the future. Right now Tesla is still trying to survive and the M3 could still be its white elephant as can be seen by the recent price reductions.
As to what Tesla makes in 2025, I'd say that's worrying too far out into the future. Right now Tesla is still trying to survive and the M3 could still be its white elephant as can be seen by the recent price reductions.
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
By the time this comes up you will be too old to care about the slower 0-60 time.
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Alpaca
Member
In 8 years - there will probably be enough wrecks out there - you would be able to source a salvage battery if you really wanted to do that. There are guys that specialize in reclaiming and rebuilding/balancing Prius batteries - and I'm sure M3 industry will be even bigger eventually ... of course , if battery is already 4 years old , might only be good for another 4-6 years. I'm interested to see how much longer than the warranty period 90% of the batteries will last ... (and still keep 85% of charge) ....
chronopc
Active Member
Tam
Well-Known Member
I would guess that the cost of Tesla Model 3 Long Range battery replacement by Tesla will be around $15,000 or much cheaper.
Do-It-Yourself experts can replace your battery for you but the issue will be whether Tesla will still honor your Free Unlimited Supercharging or not.
Daniel in SD
(supervised)
The average age of cars on the road in the United States is 11.6 years. The Tesla demographic is far from average
When the battery ages on the Model 3 they'll simply be sold used to people who don't need the range. Some will get battery replacements from salvage vehicles. I think the demand for new battery packs will end up being very small. It simply won't be worth the cost to put a new battery in an 8 year old Tesla. The orginal Model S's have already depreciated to $40k. Once they're 10 years old they'll probably be worth $20k, I doubt anyone would pay $20k to put a new battery in.
ℬête Noire
Active Member
We're getting to the point where those 3rd party info apps (Teslafi et al) should be able to give us insight on what to expect for degradation in the first 30K miles of a Model 3 pack. I haven't seen anything posted yet, though.
I think it'll be very informative when you compare that to the Model S/X curves. Those older tech packs almost all had small but very discernible degradation, a couple points within 20K miles or something IIRC, and then it went to a very gradual slope. At 13K I've seen not even a single mile of the 310 lost on my Model 3, it'll still go to right to the top at 310mi if I charge it full the day before to let it balance.
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