I installed a Kicker CX 800.1 amplifier and an AudioControl LC2i Pro LOC pushing to 2 older model 10" Kicker Comp VR subs in a custom box I built for the sub-trunk. I know there are better amps and subs out there—I’m from Oklahoma, so trying to support ‘the local guys’. Also just looking for some additional bass—not trying to draw extra attention or win a competition or anything.
After reading some of the posts here on the forum regarding the NVX boost system, battery issues, etc., I thought I had all of the equipment I needed for the install to avoid issues.
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However, I had originally connected the amp’s power supply from the penthouse, but much like the last thread above mentions, there were issues doing that, and Tesla's electronics did NOT like it (I'm assuming the issue was the MOFSETS in the penthouse not liking the power draw when first waking up the car, but that’s just a guess). I ended up purchasing a 14V accessory battery from XS Batteries to help keep the amp happy and reduce the instantaneous draw on the system upon initial wakeup of the car. I also moved the connection point from the penthouse to the jump post at the front of the vehicle, above the low voltage battery, to distance the connection from the MOFSETS. This combo seemed to work.
Here's the connection.
I installed circuit breakers instead of the usual audio fuses, in case I needed/wanted to disconnect the accessory system from the car’s low voltage system. Here’s the circuit breaker I installed at the front (30A).
Here is the battery location and the circuit breakers on both the line back to the front (again for safety/isolation purposes) as well as the breaker to the amp, as a typical install would require (80A to the amp, per its' spec, and 60A to the front, just to have a different color option to keep them easily identifiable).
Here’s a link to where I purchased the battery: XS Power RSV-S6
Yes, stupidly expensive. The ‘stupidity tax’ for wanting an aftermarket audio system in a finicky car I suppose.
I also added a Bluetooth lithium ion battery tracker from antigravity batteries. Without a battery isolator installed to keep the two low voltage systems separated, it just gives me the total voltage of the system (accessory and car battery together). So, not entirely useful, unless the car’s low voltage battery also started failing. However, I could open one of the circuit breakers between the two to get a better indication of the accessory battery voltage status.
Here’s the custom box I made to maximize the space of the sub-trunk.
The wings are weird, admittedly, but I needed every bit of space in the sub trunk that I could get, so that I had enough internal volume required for the subs’ operation. Box has just over 1.65 ft3 internal volume. Box is also filled 50% with polyfil as well.
It’s an 800W RMS amplifier, pushing power to the 2 10” 2-ohm DVC subs. Also have an AudioControl LC2i Pro LOC, receiving the audio and converting the signal for the Kicker amp. Here’s the whole system:
I used a piggyback harness another forum member made to tap into the audio system at the factory sub for the LOC signal; $70ish. Pricy, for what I was getting. But, easier than trying to splice into the system. And since all of it is plug-and-play, I can remove the system entirely as if it was never there. That piece of mind made the purchase worth it for me.
Trailer/tow harness, ordered from Tesla; less than $5. This was my 12V source near the driver’s seat footwell so I could install an on/off switch. I wanted to ensure the system would be fully off when I leave the car, to avoid battery issues with the amp continuing to stay awake or put a draw on the system. In a discussion with the CTO of WavTech, there seem to be reports after one of the 2022-based software updates where the previous low voltage wire that was being used to tap a power supply continued to supply power and the audio equipment continued to stay ‘on’ when the car was put into sentry mode, thus keeping the whole aftermarket system on. I use sentry mode everywhere but at the house, so I was concerned with this. However, I only have that story, and no personal experience with confirming that scenario. Just trying to avoid it, hence the on/off switch.
I put an inline fuse between this harness and the button, which I installed on the driver’s side console side-wall. This is one of the two spots where there would be physical/visible evidence of the system, should I ever remove it, since I did drill a hole through the plastic/carpet there.
For the negative/ground for the accessory battery and for the LOC, I used the bolt holes where the 3rd row seatbelts would attach.
Lastly, here’s the location for the LOC bass knob.
Only other thing to note was that when I purchased the battery, it arrived with a low voltage, so I needed to use a 16 V lithium ion battery charger to get it up to snuff. I installed it with just a hair over the car’s resting low voltage, to ensure that there were no issues from the temperamental software. Worked great, and once it was installed, it’s been charging/hovering at 15.4 V, which is 85-90ish percent max SOC for this battery, which should minimize battery degradation.
The system is definitely not breaking any records with watts, but is sounds amazeballs, and definitely does the job that I wanted it to do! Super happy with the finished product. Final verdict is that an aftermarket install on the new higher low-voltage system is possible (if you can manage to swallow the battery cost).
After reading some of the posts here on the forum regarding the NVX boost system, battery issues, etc., I thought I had all of the equipment I needed for the install to avoid issues.
Amp and subwoofer install on the new Li-ion 12/15.5v AMD systems?
Hello, Has anyone installed an amp and subwoofer on the new Li-ion 12/15.5v? Just curious if there are any issues with this type of install on the new Li-ion systems?
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Model Y Subwoofer Bass Mod
One issue I‘ve had with my Model Y compared to my old Model 3 is that there’s hardly any bass at all from the audio system, it wasn’t amazing in the M3, but it was noticeably better than the MY. If I turn the bass and sub sliders all the way up then there is some bass, but it’s very muddy...
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NVX Boost Subwoofer upgrade - installed
If you are looking for a nicely integrated bass / subwoofer upgrade for your 5-seater Y but don’t want to take up too much space, this is a great option. The only loss to space is the “milk” pockets on either side of the rear storage area. Or one pocket if you install a single side. You can add...
teslamotorsclub.com
Subwoofer install on new AMD systems
Hey just got my system installed and it took more work than normal on the new 12v li ion battery but everything is working correctly and not throwing error codes. The AMD vehicles require an extra battery for larger amps. This is not my complete and finished setup. My hd750\1 JL amp is in the...
teslamotorsclub.com
However, I had originally connected the amp’s power supply from the penthouse, but much like the last thread above mentions, there were issues doing that, and Tesla's electronics did NOT like it (I'm assuming the issue was the MOFSETS in the penthouse not liking the power draw when first waking up the car, but that’s just a guess). I ended up purchasing a 14V accessory battery from XS Batteries to help keep the amp happy and reduce the instantaneous draw on the system upon initial wakeup of the car. I also moved the connection point from the penthouse to the jump post at the front of the vehicle, above the low voltage battery, to distance the connection from the MOFSETS. This combo seemed to work.
Here's the connection.
I installed circuit breakers instead of the usual audio fuses, in case I needed/wanted to disconnect the accessory system from the car’s low voltage system. Here’s the circuit breaker I installed at the front (30A).
Here is the battery location and the circuit breakers on both the line back to the front (again for safety/isolation purposes) as well as the breaker to the amp, as a typical install would require (80A to the amp, per its' spec, and 60A to the front, just to have a different color option to keep them easily identifiable).
Here’s a link to where I purchased the battery: XS Power RSV-S6
Yes, stupidly expensive. The ‘stupidity tax’ for wanting an aftermarket audio system in a finicky car I suppose.
I also added a Bluetooth lithium ion battery tracker from antigravity batteries. Without a battery isolator installed to keep the two low voltage systems separated, it just gives me the total voltage of the system (accessory and car battery together). So, not entirely useful, unless the car’s low voltage battery also started failing. However, I could open one of the circuit breakers between the two to get a better indication of the accessory battery voltage status.
Here’s the custom box I made to maximize the space of the sub-trunk.
The wings are weird, admittedly, but I needed every bit of space in the sub trunk that I could get, so that I had enough internal volume required for the subs’ operation. Box has just over 1.65 ft3 internal volume. Box is also filled 50% with polyfil as well.
It’s an 800W RMS amplifier, pushing power to the 2 10” 2-ohm DVC subs. Also have an AudioControl LC2i Pro LOC, receiving the audio and converting the signal for the Kicker amp. Here’s the whole system:
I used a piggyback harness another forum member made to tap into the audio system at the factory sub for the LOC signal; $70ish. Pricy, for what I was getting. But, easier than trying to splice into the system. And since all of it is plug-and-play, I can remove the system entirely as if it was never there. That piece of mind made the purchase worth it for me.
Trailer/tow harness, ordered from Tesla; less than $5. This was my 12V source near the driver’s seat footwell so I could install an on/off switch. I wanted to ensure the system would be fully off when I leave the car, to avoid battery issues with the amp continuing to stay awake or put a draw on the system. In a discussion with the CTO of WavTech, there seem to be reports after one of the 2022-based software updates where the previous low voltage wire that was being used to tap a power supply continued to supply power and the audio equipment continued to stay ‘on’ when the car was put into sentry mode, thus keeping the whole aftermarket system on. I use sentry mode everywhere but at the house, so I was concerned with this. However, I only have that story, and no personal experience with confirming that scenario. Just trying to avoid it, hence the on/off switch.
I put an inline fuse between this harness and the button, which I installed on the driver’s side console side-wall. This is one of the two spots where there would be physical/visible evidence of the system, should I ever remove it, since I did drill a hole through the plastic/carpet there.
For the negative/ground for the accessory battery and for the LOC, I used the bolt holes where the 3rd row seatbelts would attach.
Lastly, here’s the location for the LOC bass knob.
Only other thing to note was that when I purchased the battery, it arrived with a low voltage, so I needed to use a 16 V lithium ion battery charger to get it up to snuff. I installed it with just a hair over the car’s resting low voltage, to ensure that there were no issues from the temperamental software. Worked great, and once it was installed, it’s been charging/hovering at 15.4 V, which is 85-90ish percent max SOC for this battery, which should minimize battery degradation.
The system is definitely not breaking any records with watts, but is sounds amazeballs, and definitely does the job that I wanted it to do! Super happy with the finished product. Final verdict is that an aftermarket install on the new higher low-voltage system is possible (if you can manage to swallow the battery cost).
