9 Months after I rejected a M3P, my first weekend with MIC SR+...

[GeorgeSymonds]

Historically, the advice on crashes was to start disconnecting phones and USB devices as loading the data could cause the software to go wrong, I remember reading that some thought it was linked to say a rogue contact, too many contacts, some strange MP3 name tag. a storage device not working quite right, and that unpluigging things or disabling helped track down if it was linked to a particular device and then through trial and error you could elliminate other things until the culprit was found. That may be worth a try.

Found the link where it's explained a bit better, although it seems the eMMC issue increasingly became the primary culprit. Might still be worth a try,

Reboot instructions for your Tesla

Your Tesla may require a reboot or hard reset from time to time, this is how you do it.

tesla-info.com

 

[Jason71]

After a long sleep I sometimes have a slight freeze on PIN to drive, its not a blank screen as it displays the PIN Pad just wont acknowledge me frantically tapping the PIN for a couple of seconds (which seems like ages). As others have suggested defo sounds like a computer issue.

Yes I get that one a lot. I have changed my routine to put my seatbelt on before doing the pin. Usually that is enough time. Rather than keep stabbing the screen you can tell when it is ready to accept input by listening to the AC. When the fan kicks in that means it has finished doing whatever it is doing and you can enter the pin. Wasn't an issue when I bought the car but been like this for at least a year now.

 

[Bantam]

Yes I get that one a lot. I have changed my routine to put my seatbelt on before doing the pin. Usually that is enough time. Rather than keep stabbing the screen you can tell when it is ready to accept input by listening to the AC. When the fan kicks in that means it has finished doing whatever it is doing and you can enter the pin. Wasn't an issue when I bought the car but been like this for at least a year now.

Good plan, slightly off topic here but in relation to the displaying of the PIN pad, one of the updates since I have owned the car (Sept 2020) has changed the behaviour. When I first got the car I had to have the brake pedal pushed down for the PIN pad to display (if I took my foot off the brake pedal the PIN pad would disappear), but recently I have noticed that if I push down the brake pedal and then release the brake pedal the PIN pad display remains on the screen.

 

[bo3bdar]

Historically, the advice on crashes was to start disconnecting phones and USB devices as loading the data could cause the software to go wrong, I remember reading that some thought it was linked to say a rogue contact, too many contacts, some strange MP3 name tag. a storage device not working quite right, and that unpluigging things or disabling helped track down if it was linked to a particular device and then through trial and error you could elliminate other things until the culprit was found. That may be worth a try.

Found the link where it's explained a bit better, although it seems the eMMC issue increasingly became the primary culprit. Might still be worth a try,

Reboot instructions for your Tesla

Your Tesla may require a reboot or hard reset from time to time, this is how you do it.

tesla-info.com

That's a good suggestion. I'll try disconnecting my phone and any prior bluetooth devices, kill my WiFi connection, and pull my USB drive. I'm also going to do a full factory reset shortly, because I'm sure that will be one of the 20 questions from support.

The manual crashes for me on every use, not occasionally. And the other crashes happened after software updates. I might be wrong, but it doesn't feel like an MCU problem, this just feels like shitty buggy software. This all also started happening after the christmas turd as well, which is another reason I think it's more likely to be software. Before that I didn't have a black screen, but also wasn't driving much during covid.

 

[PITA]

When I get in the car, I have a routine that seems to work.

- Press the door lock button
- Press and hold brake pedal
- Type in PIN to Drive

Seems to work every time.

 

[Anothergeek]

That right there is the best description of driving a Tesla that I've read. Really resonates with me.

If I think of the entire car as Beta, that makes everything make sense. Thanks for this keen observation. The software in particular is really janky now after the christmas update, and it's been bumming me out that they wrecked my car with a crap update. It helps if I think of the entire thing as a work in progress.

Before they pushed out the christmas turd, I had full confidence in the car, nothing too weird. Since then, I have the same feeling of potential doom at any moment. Head unit can crash at will, anytime. Driving or not. Parking break makes a slightly weird noise, and I worry it's failing or the software has gone bonkers. Any OTA updates now give me anxiety that they will brick the car and just say "too bad."

Mind you- none of that has actually happened*, the car drives great, it's super fun and interesting, and I have no genuine reason to worry about it. It's far more reliable than my 20 year old Boxster.

*except the MCU crashes. That thing crashes at every update, black screen when opening the car. Crashes when I look the user manual. Crashes when I look at normal web pages. I would pay $1000 to get the pre-christmas update back on my car.

After a couple million vehicles built, they really should not be “in Beta” anymore.

When I bought my 2018, I didn’t consider myself a Beta Tester.

The car has been great, so far.

They’ve been building vehicles for about a decade…..