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A Charger Holder/Holster that holds onto Tesla J1772 Adapter

Tesla J1772 Adapter

I have one of those cheap plastic doohickies* that allows me to dock the end of my tesla charger cable outside while the actual wall charger unit is inside the garage. Convenient and even survived getting popped off by me backing up into it, slid it back on its base and good to go...

Now though, switching to a ChargePoint charger so I can get a better deal on the power I use from my utility- so I have to use the J1772 Adapter, but that thing is too short and fat to fit in the present holster*. I don't want to take off the adapter every time, put it somewhere, then dock the J1772, I want to just leave the adapter on and dock it.... anyone doing anything like this- finding a tesla charger cable holster that holds onto the 'shorter' snout section of the adapter??

The geometry doesn't look all that complicated, just need an opening and a 'nub' that is closer to the opening by just a few mm than the holster I have. The plastic on the holder is too thin to dremel out and I don't want to grind down the adapter...


There are a million versions of these, but they all seem to be made for the tesla charger cables, not the adapter:
* https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51qen5Ab01L._AC_SL1000_.jpg
 

jcanoe

Well-Known Member
Oct 2, 2020
5,343
5,835
Maryland
I would just hang the J1772 connector with the Tesla adapter attached over a hook. There is a risk that someone could walk off with your Tesla adapter. The ultimate solution is a second Tesla vehicle in your driveway. That way you would always have a place for the Tesla charging adapter and it would be locked in the charging port.
 
If you know someone with a 3-D printer there are many solutions available:
Search Thingiverse - Thingiverse
Prob I have is that there are tesla cable holders, J1227 holders, Tesla Adapter Locks.... but no Tesla Adapter holders... but some of those look 'short' so might work. I can have someone make on of these, or find it cheap on Etsy I guess.
 
I have no idea how long it takes to print. Pre-COVID I had it printed at the local library. I gave them the file and they had it done in a week or two. I paid about $2.35 for material. I've used makexyz.com to print a cell phone tray extender and that cost around $12 shipped. That's another option.

I did have my friend's geeky son print some of the tow-plate removal tools from LivingTesla. Those I got for free :)
 
Group buy a spool of white/red plastic? Lol. I have a printer more than happy to click print a few times for someone local enough to pick up, way too much work to coordinate offering to ship them around the country for $1 worth of plastic. I haven’t looked at the model but that looks like a 4-6 hour print ish? Solid maybe 12...
 
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srs5694

Active Member
Jan 15, 2019
1,291
1,631
Woonsocket, RI
Sorry for the late reply, but if you've got a third-party J1772 EVSE, chances are it has a J1772 holster -- the ChargePoint Home Flex that you mention (if I've identified the model correctly) has one built into the EVSE itself, for instance. I designed an adapter, available on Thingiverse, that converts the J1772 holster into a Tesla holster, for use with a Tesla plug or a J1772 plug with a J1772/Tesla adapter attached to it. I designed my adapter for use with a Clipper Creek holster, so I can't promise it would work with the ChargePoint unit's built-in holster, but there's a good chance it would, so you might want to check it out. As with other suggestions earlier, mine is a 3D model; you'll need access to a 3D printer to print it.
 
I can't believe there's still no solution for those of us without 3D printers. Or those wanting to use a 3D printed object. I have a 3D printer, but I'm not able to print ABS (fumes) or other high-temp plastics that's needed to survive outdoor temps and moisture. It gets 100-120F+ often here, and my holster will be in direct sunlight 12+ hours a day. PLA and PETG will easily warp under outdoor conditions.

I guess the number of people that use the Tesla J1772 adapter is so small that the Chinese sellers on Amazon can't be bothered to engineer an injection molded ABS part to sell.

srs5694:

I designed an adapter, available on Thingiverse, that converts the J1772 holster into a Tesla holster, for use with a Tesla plug or a J1772 plug with a J1772/Tesla adapter attached to it. I designed my adapter for use with a Clipper Creek holster, so I can't promise it would work with the ChargePoint unit's built-in holster, but there's a good chance it would, so you might want to check it out.
Thanks for designing/posting that (and posting detailed instructions)! Since it's a simple ring that plugs into the existing J1772 holster, and the J1772 hoster is the main load-bearing component, it might actually survive the outdoor conditions. I'll give it a try using PETG.
 
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I can't believe there's still no solution for those of us without 3D printers. Or those wanting to use a 3D printed object. I have a 3D printer, but I'm not able to print ABS (fumes) or other high-temp plastics that's needed to survive outdoor temps and moisture. It gets 100-120F+ often here, and my holster will be in direct sunlight 12+ hours a day. PLA and PETG will easily warp under outdoor conditions.

I guess the number of people that use the Tesla J1772 adapter is so small that the Chinese sellers on Amazon can't be bothered to engineer an injection molded ABS part to sell.


Thanks for designing/posting that (and posting detailed instructions)! Since it's a simple ring that plugs into the existing J1772 holster, and the J1772 hoster is the main load-bearing component, it might actually survive the outdoor conditions. I'll give it a try using PETG.
Send me one! I'll beta test it in a cold northern environment for you and then post how great it is and you can rake in the bucks on Etsy!
 
I can't believe there's still no solution for those of us without 3D printers. Or those wanting to use a 3D printed object. I have a 3D printer, but I'm not able to print ABS (fumes) or other high-temp plastics that's needed to survive outdoor temps and moisture. It gets 100-120F+ often here, and my holster will be in direct sunlight 12+ hours a day. PLA and PETG will easily warp under outdoor conditions.

I guess the number of people that use the Tesla J1772 adapter is so small that the Chinese sellers on Amazon can't be bothered to engineer an injection molded ABS part to sell.


Thanks for designing/posting that (and posting detailed instructions)! Since it's a simple ring that plugs into the existing J1772 holster, and the J1772 hoster is the main load-bearing component, it might actually survive the outdoor conditions. I'll give it a try using PETG.
Unfortunately it didn't fit correctly.
The X and Y were perfect, but Z was too short, and thus the Tesla holster wouldn't reach inside enough to hook on the notch on the adapter. I increased Z by 150%, and it fit. But then the problem was that the hook on the adapter was too weak and wouldn't hold on to the J1772 holster strong enough. Thus when removing the plug, it removed the adapter along with it.

I ended up going with Tesla J1772 Adapter Charger Plug Holder by grant10k. Printed easily using PETG with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.32 layer height. 20% infill. Let's see how long this holds up in the heat.

20210624_121858~2.jpg


20210624_121917.jpg


20210624_121829.jpg

20210624_121825.jpg
 
I’ve been thinking about printing a holder myself. Out of curiosity, what wall count did you use? I was planning on printing at 100% infill because the cable dangling is heavy. If it works with 20…save me some plastic. I am concerned with strength and would rather lay the cord on the garage floor myself like I do now than have this holder lay it on the floor for me.
 

srs5694

Active Member
Jan 15, 2019
1,291
1,631
Woonsocket, RI
Unfortunately it didn't fit correctly.
The X and Y were perfect, but Z was too short, and thus the Tesla holster wouldn't reach inside enough to hook on the notch on the adapter. I increased Z by 150%, and it fit. But then the problem was that the hook on the adapter was too weak and wouldn't hold on to the J1772 holster strong enough. Thus when removing the plug, it removed the adapter along with it.
If you're talking about my J1772/Tesla holster adapter, I provide three variants, with differing positions of the tab that fits into the little notch in a Tesla plug or adapter. I used one of these on my Clipper Creek unit, but found that that positioning was too deep on a third-party J1772 holster that I happened to have; there were some support structures inside that holster that prevented the Tesla plug/adapter from being inserted far enough to engage the tab. Thus, I created the two variants. It sounds like you may have run into a similar issue with your holster. These variants are described in the documentation, but if you just load the models into a slicer program, the difference is easy to overlook.

None of this is to say you should ditch your working holster and re-print my adapter; if you're happy with that holster, why bother? If your J1772 EVSE has a built-in holster that you'd prefer to use, though, you could try one of mine with a variant tab placement.
 
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srs5694

Active Member
Jan 15, 2019
1,291
1,631
Woonsocket, RI
I’ve been thinking about printing a holder myself. Out of curiosity, what wall count did you use? I was planning on printing at 100% infill because the cable dangling is heavy. If it works with 20…save me some plastic. I am concerned with strength and would rather lay the cord on the garage floor myself like I do now than have this holder lay it on the floor for me.
I didn't print the wall mount that @kishkaru presented; however, I'd think that 100% infill would be overkill, and could even backfire -- even a small amount of overextrusion by the printer could result in distortion of the shape, and if tolerances are tight, that might make it difficult to holster the Tesla plug or adapter. The Thingiverse listing for that holster specifies 20% infill, so that's presumably what the creator used/recommends. I don't see mention there of wall count. In general, wall count is at least as important as infill percentage for object strength. I'd think 3 or 4 walls would be good for this part.
 

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