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Acceptable Degradation?

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2017 Model S 75D (259 mile range)
Has not been charging to capacity for a couple of years, expected.

However mine has 33,532 miles and is showing a battery degradation of 10%.

Avg 347 times 163 mile projected range, divided by 84% =
0.897793650793651

First is this correct n the calculation and secondly is this an acceptable level of degradation?

Thanks in advance
 
Looks normal but there is a 700+page thread on this subject ..i believe that battery type was included in the throttling down so hard to say what is software related vs just normal degradation ..as point of comparison my 100 bat also shows a ~9% degradation per Teslafi over 70k miles ...I would just charge and enjoy !;)
 
2017 Model S 75D (259 mile range)
Has not been charging to capacity for a couple of years, expected.

However mine has 33,532 miles and is showing a battery degradation of 10%.

Avg 347 times 163 mile projected range, divided by 84% =
0.897793650793651

First is this correct n the calculation and secondly is this an acceptable level of degradation?

Thanks in advance

You won't get an acceptable answer to the second question I am afraid..

But if you were to ask is this typical, or near average, get Teslafi and look at the battery beta tab. It will compare your car range with others with similar mileage.
 
I have a 2020 Model S LR +....4,500 miles.....I have been calculating my battery range and have been getting consistently 96-97% from new...SInce that last update to 2020.32.2 and now 2020.32.3, the calculation has gone down to 90% almost overnight.....I am using Teslafi and the range is showing 395 miles....I have never seen 402 or 400....Should I be concerned about the battery being at 90%? I know that my battery is capped at 98% but to all of a sudden drop from 96-97 to 90% is concerning me
 
I have a 2020 Model S LR +....4,500 miles.....I have been calculating my battery range and have been getting consistently 96-97% from new...SInce that last update to 2020.32.2 and now 2020.32.3, the calculation has gone down to 90% almost overnight.....I am using Teslafi and the range is showing 395 miles....I have never seen 402 or 400....Should I be concerned about the battery being at 90%? I know that my battery is capped at 98% but to all of a sudden drop from 96-97 to 90% is concerning me
None of this makes any sense. What are you “calculating”, and how? What do you mean “capped at 98%”?
 
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None of this makes any sense. What are you “calculating”, and how? What do you mean “capped at 98%”?

1...I cannot charge to 100%......Tesla has capped me at 98%....Each time I try, car shows only 98% and I have never been able to get the 402 miles of range that the 2020 Model S LR+ is advertised to get....the most I have seen is 396 even when new,,now I have 4500 miles and I guess that is within normal segregation levels but the capping is what irritates me the most

2...I calculate battery range by multiplying the estimated range x Wh/m....I divide that by the SoC percentage displayed on the instrument cluster....then divide that by 1000.....Remember to use the SoC percentage as .XX

Example.......estimated range is 287 miles; Wh/m is 204 (both from the screen); SoC on the IC is 61%

287 x 204 = 58,548.

58,548 / .61 = 95,980

95,980 \ 1000 = 95.9 = battery range

Thats how I calculate to get my battery range....Is this incorrect and if so, is there a better way.......

thanks
 
1...I cannot charge to 100%......Tesla has capped me at 98%....Each time I try, car shows only 98% and I have never been able to get the 402 miles of range that the 2020 Model S LR+ is advertised to get....the most I have seen is 396 even when new,,now I have 4500 miles and I guess that is within normal segregation levels but the capping is what irritates me the most

2...I calculate battery range by multiplying the estimated range x Wh/m....I divide that by the SoC percentage displayed on the instrument cluster....then divide that by 1000.....Remember to use the SoC percentage as .XX

Example.......estimated range is 287 miles; Wh/m is 204 (both from the screen); SoC on the IC is 61%

287 x 204 = 58,548.

58,548 / .61 = 95,980

95,980 \ 1000 = 95.9 = battery range

Thats how I calculate to get my battery range....Is this incorrect and if so, is there a better way.......

thanks


There may be some confusion here due to use of terms...

The term capping, as it relates to older cars such as those using 85 KwH pack, was caused by software that limited the maximum BMS voltage to 4.1 to 4,15 VPC, instead of 4.18-4.2 VPC. AKA "Batterygate"

The only way to see this is to read the CAN bus, as the car would display 100% regardless of the actual voltage per cell (VPC). So, folks would see their range drop overnight, even though they could still charge to 100%. See thread "sudden loss of range"

In your case, you cannot charge to 100%, so you may have a cell imbalance, or some calibration problem with the BMS. It might go away, or it might get worse.

Lets assume for the moment you charge tomorrow, and get to 100%, Your RR on the displays is now 394, 8 miles less than nominal or advertised range. That is only a 2% loss! I would be happy with that.

Also, about your calcs, you don't really have a 100 KwH pack. More like a 102 KwH pack of which 98 or so is usable. I believe your 2020 Model S has a buffer of 2 or 4 Kwh, not sure exactly, the CAN bus will tell you.

In addition, even if you had 402 miles of RR on the display, you could not drive that far at the EPA RR consumption. Why? EPA test allows you to use the entire pack capacity, including the buffer, until the car will no longer maintain speed. That means you would be driving past zero miles to get the RR.

Since you have a degradation clause in you warranty, I would get a reader and CAN bus software, and find you actual Nominal full pack capacity, and keep tract of it.
 
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Tesla recently published a 30% loss as their acceptable limit for both natural degradation or unnatural software-capping to avoid warranty costs, so if you degrade to 69% of your originally rated capacity it should be covered by warranty but if it starts to fail they will cap your capacity artificially to try and reduce wear to limit their warranty costs. Capping has been official company policy for over a year.
 
@r1200gs4ok Tesla has not "capped" your car at 98%. This is a BMS drift thing and it's pretty common. Not sure how many times you've tried to charge to 100%, but this is almost always fixed by 2 or 3 back to back 100% charges with a relatively deep discharge in between.
I have not relied this approach....I will run down to <20% then charge to 100%....I'll do this for the next 3 charges driving immediately aft each charge....thank you
 
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There may be some confusion here due to use of terms...

The term capping, as it relates to older cars such as those using 85 KwH pack, was caused by software that limited the maximum BMS voltage to 4.1 to 4,15 VPC, instead of 4.18-4.2 VPC. AKA "Batterygate"

The only way to see this is to read the CAN bus, as the car would display 100% regardless of the actual voltage per cell (VPC). So, folks would see their range drop overnight, even though they could still charge to 100%. See thread "sudden loss of range"

In your case, you cannot charge to 100%, so you may have a cell imbalance, or some calibration problem with the BMS. It might go away, or it might get worse.

Lets assume for the moment you charge tomorrow, and get to 100%, Your RR on the displays is now 394, 8 miles less than nominal or advertised range. That is only a 2% loss! I would be happy with that.

Also, about your calcs, you don't really have a 100 KwH pack. More like a 102 KwH pack of which 98 or so is usable. I believe your 2020 Model S has a buffer of 2 or 4 Kwh, not sure exactly, the CAN bus will tell you.

In addition, even if you had 402 miles of RR on the display, you could not drive that far at the EPA RR consumption. Why? EPA test allows you to use the entire pack capacity, including the buffer, until the car will no longer maintain speed. That means you would be driving past zero miles to get the RR.

Since you have a degradation clause in you warranty, I would get a reader and CAN bus software, and find you actual Nominal full pack capacity, and keep tract of it.
thank you...I will get a reader and software and check it out myself...
 
well, I am just trying to understand everything I can about this car.....when I see something I do not understand, I ask questions hoping that some friends on the forum can share their experience and maybe offer me some advice...

Understand...it is part of range anxiety, a very hard thing to shake.

I only over came it because of MCU1 issues, now that has my attention.