In my case, the problem was a short-circuit PTC heater which burned a fuse in the DC/DC module. These fuses are 50$ in North America currently, but only 9€ in Europe, so I had some sent to my sister in Spain, who then ship them to me. But then, I was not willing to play with the cooling hoses of DC/DC module, so I ended up asking a EV repair shop in Montreal, VE-MTL, to replace the fuse. They are the ones who diagnosed that the PTC was short-circuit, but they were not willing to replace it with a used one. (Still, I recommend them strongly for servicing your out-of-warranty Tesla if you're in the Montreal area, they are very qualified and professional.) So, in order to save a few hundred dollars (and also because I like to fix my car myself when I can) I ended up ordering a used PTC heater off e-bay and replacing it myself.
@ElectricStu instructions were very useful, but I though a few pictures might help.
I have a 1st generation DC/DC converter located behind the passenger side front wheel, with the PTC wire going through a path difficult to reach. Perhaps the single most important advice I have to add:
when you remove the old PTC heater cable, attach a string to the end of the cable that was connected to the DC/DC module BEFORE pulling out that cable, so you can use that string to pass the cable of the replacement unit. I didn't, and I lost nearly an hour trying to have the cable make it's way back to the DC-DC module.
Here are the steps described by
@ElectricStu with some pictures:
DISCLAIMER
- I am not a mechanic. Do this at your own peril. Really, there is the potential for some high voltage shockery.
- No idea if this will void your warranty.
- I just have my Tesla for a few months, so I basically know nothing about these cars.
- Do your research if you have a knee airbag installed, this requires extra precautions.
That also applies (except that I have the car for 6 years).
PREP
- Screwdrivers: Philips and Torx
- 10mm socket and/or spanner
- Plastic dash trim remover thingy's
- Multimeter (optional)
- Turn off car (I initially forgot and somehow it detected I was messing with it, going into some sort of safe mode, if this happens just do that "roll wheel button reset", also be careful with the doors, not sure if in this case they roll down the window before opening to avoid being shattered).
- You could do the high voltage disconnect routine as described in the workshop manual. I didn't do this though.
- High voltage gloves (I went without)
- Torx: T-15
- I managed without the 10 mm deep socket but it was a pain in the butt.
This is my case:
If you have the 1st gen DC/DC converter, the PTC connector will be behind the passenger side front wheel. Remove wheel and wheel lining (one bolt and a number of those split pen clips). If you're unsure check in the frunk first, this is the easiest to access (perhaps there are other/better ways to find out, search this forum if you want to know upfront).
INSIDE
* Remove dash panels under and around glovebox.
Use a plastic dash trim remover to avoid scratches, a little force is needed, but usually not too much.
These are also clipped to the small side panel between dash and door.
Best to remove them together.
There is one JST JWPF connector to that small side panel to disconnect.
Just to make sure: no need to remove the upper dash panels.
* Remove glovebox.
Screwed in by a number of Torx screws.
Disconnect three connectors.
Screws: 4 pictures on the left. Connectors: pictures on the right.
* Remove cover under where the glovebox is, it has a light, disconnect that.
It's held back by two 10mm bolts in the rear (which were missing the nut in my case).
In my case, it was also held back by a wire attached to a handle to open the frunk (lower right picture), which I didn't know I had! It was a bit tricky to detach.
* Remove lining next to center console. If you have a cubby box you may have to take it out first. I don't have that.
Held by clips.
* Unbolt knee airbag / plastic panel (in case no airbag is installed).
Again two 10 mm nuts on a long bolt.
This is where the deep socket (10 mm) is really helpful. I managed without, but it was one of the most difficult parts.
* Unbolt metal strut 3x 10mm
In my case, there were 4 screws. The picture above is that of the removed part. You see two holes on the left end, and two holes on the right end.
* Unbolt duct 2x philips
This creates space for the heater element to come out.
One of the screws is inside the air duct outlet.
* Unbolt heater element: 3x Philips
Slide out heater element
Open the top lit, by putting a flatblade or blade of knife under the plastic clips. This gives access the PCB.
This would be a good moment to take out your multimeter to verify there is really no power on the unit.
Unbolt power+ground connectors 2x 10mm + 1x ground philips
Before you can remove the heater, you need to remove a metal panel, the one on which the ratchet is suspended in this picture:
Then disconnect and slide out the PTC:
That's where you will need to pull the wire going to the DC/DC module: don't forget to attach a wire to the connector so you can pull back the wire of the replacement unit.
Thanks again for the advises!