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Access to the heater assembly?
- Thread starter ElectricStu
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- heater
dekuramen
Member
Tesla service ended up replacing my 1st gen DCDC converter heater fuse. I personally replaced the heater core too as a precaution. The PTC heater core replacement went well. It's hidden behind the MCU in the passenger footwell. Lots of trim to remove to get there. DCDC Converter is located behind and under passenger wheel well. If you look for the Model S service manual online you will find how to access and remove/replace almost everything.
Hi, Did you had to replace the 40AMP fuse inside the Gen2 DC/DC converter? If so, did you had to take the whole unit out or were able to open it in place to replace the fuse? Thanks Rajeev
Hi, Are you able to share how much Tesla charged for replacing the DCDC converter heater fuse? Also was this before or after you replaced the heater core? FYI - I am thinking of doing the same but not sure if TESLA will replace the fuse if I replace the heater in advance.
Many Thanks,
Rajeev
KArnold
Active Member
Specifically where in the frunk is the Gen 2 PTC for AWD?
2017 MS100D, no heat suddenly. Likely the fuse? Surprised there is not a video on this - maybe I'll make one.
2017 MS100D, no heat suddenly. Likely the fuse? Surprised there is not a video on this - maybe I'll make one.
dekuramen
Member
Approx $950CAD. They replaced a few fuses in there and resealed with new sealant. This was after I replaced the PTC heater core myself.
fsch
Member
The thing is, is it the heater core that is short circuit (in which case, if you replace the fuse, it'll just blow again when you reconnect the heater core) or is it just the core not working. In my case, it was both: the heater core was short, which bown the fuse.
An independent garage specialized in servicing EVs identified both problems and replaced the fuse for 400CAD. They didn't reconnect the shorted core to avoid blowing the fuse again, but had to put back the (modified) plug so a contact loop is satisfied and the car allows you to drive. And then I changed the heater core myself, see above.
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Thanks. I have just replaced the PTC heater core and now charging up the 12V battery (should have disconnected it as per the instructions) . So will soon find out if the fuse in the front DC Junction box needs to be replaced as well. I have purchased the new fuse, but not sure how to open the junction box as the top plate with screws is facing the firewall!
fsch
Member
In my case (MS 2013), the DCDC converter has the connectors facing the outside and directly accessible, so I can't tell for you. But it has cooling hoses connected to it, so I was not willing to remove it to change the fuse myself.
Gtech
Active Member
Last month I replaced the PTC fuse for A Model X and the backward bolts are fun job indeed, they also have a sort of loctite on them (I believe they share the same forward HVJB) Dropped my wrench behind the drive unit onto the battery but it worked out eventually. Think the Model S is a little bit easier to access
Gtech
Active Member
Front HVJB isn't the same as Model X as I found out yesterday...
And did you need to change the fuse afterwards?
yes, the fuse was blown in the front DC Junction box as well. It was not easy to get to from front as it's is "designed" to be accessed from the bottom of the car by removing the battery pack. Also I originally brought the wrong PTC heater from eBay (1060432-00-E) but my car UK Model S 2017 had 107612-00-B, so it didn't work even after replacing the blown fuse. So I purchased the latest revision of my original part from Tesla, which is 1072612-00-D and it worked fine with the new fuse.
The replacement fuse I used was BUSSMANN BY EATON FWP-40A14F FUSE, 40A, SEMICONDUCTOR, HI SPEED
please be careful with the high voltage cables when you remove them as the part of the connector comes off if the red tab is not pulled out and small notch pressed to release the lock.
I still have the used 1060432-00-E I purchased from eBay available if someone needs it.
The replacement fuse I used was BUSSMANN BY EATON FWP-40A14F FUSE, 40A, SEMICONDUCTOR, HI SPEED
please be careful with the high voltage cables when you remove them as the part of the connector comes off if the red tab is not pulled out and small notch pressed to release the lock.
I still have the used 1060432-00-E I purchased from eBay available if someone needs it.
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Gtech
Active Member
Ah, good to hear it's working again. To bad about the wrong PTC, I did some part nr swapping swapping with PTC heaters before but that worked out strangely, guess I was lucky or your used one was broken?yes, the fuse was blown in the front DC Junction box as well. It was not easy to get to from front as it's is "designed" to be accessed from the bottom of the car by removing the battery pack. Also I originally brought the wrong PTC heater from eBay (1060432-00-E) but my car UK Model S 2017 had 107612-00-B, so it didn't work even after replacing the blown fuse. So I purchased the latest revision of my original part from Tesla, which is 1072612-00-D and it worked fine with the new fuse.
The replacement fuse I used was BUSSMANN BY EATON FWP-40A14F FUSE, 40A, SEMICONDUCTOR, HI SPEED
please be careful with the high voltage cables when you remove them as the part of the connector comes off if the red tab is not pulled out and small notch pressed to release the lock.
I still have the used 1060432-00-E I purchased from eBay available if someone needs it.
To bad you don't have AWD since it is even more fun to access the FJB
I think Tesla officially drops the HV pack when they need to swap a fuse on a 2016 and later AWD S but I didn't have that luxury
KArnold
Active Member
Just had it done by Tesla in Ohio. Parts are $930, couple of diagnostic hours, total $1400.
Cheburashka
Active Member
Ah, good to hear it's working again. To bad about the wrong PTC, I did some part nr swapping swapping with PTC heaters before but that worked out strangely, guess I was lucky or your used one was broken?
To bad you don't have AWD since it is even more fun to access the FJB
I think Tesla officially drops the HV pack when they need to swap a fuse on a 2016 and later AWD S but I didn't have that luxury
How did you get access to the fjb on a 2016 S? Seems right in there. Obviously dropping the hv pack is out of the question for at home service. Would appreciate some pointers if you've done it. Thanks!
Gtech
Active Member
It's doable but it's not really a beginners job, do this at your own risk.
First remove all regular stuff from top side to get some access incl. Fireman loop and 12v
Then remove all connectors you need to get some more clearance, fuses are on the rear.
Now fun part starts.
Remove all 3 or 4 mounting screws from fjb and do not drop them.
Remove rear cover bolts from fjb, my advise will be to start with the hardest ones to reach first so you know if you can reach them all.
Make sure HV is 0.0v and replace fuse.
Good luck.
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Cheburashka
Active Member
Do you know if there is a way to check the fuse on the PTC side? Wondering if I can check it without having to remove the FJB altogether.
Gtech
Active Member
Best way is to remove the fuse and measure it, change it popped is almost 100% so you have to replace it anyway.
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