-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
DC Autocraft
Former Vendor
NeverFollow
Active Member
I wasn't the one driving but this just happened....
Might be a good idea to put some corner protection:
Note: I'm surprised that the ultrasonic bumper proximity sensors did not emit any warning?
They told me they will attempt a repair but if the aluminum starts bubbling (not sure what that means) they will have to replace.
They had a lot of Tesla’s and had good reviews so do you think I should trust them? This is my first time dealing with a body shop so I have no idea.
If Burbank isn't too far, we can give you an estimate Monday morning
I am in Irvine so it’s a bit too far, need something local. The wheel molding came loose while driving to the shop so I had to stop in the middle of the 405 and push it back in...I am not driving the car till it gets fixed...too risky stopping in the middle of the freeway.
Might be a good idea to put some corner protection:
Note: I'm surprised that the ultrasonic bumper proximity sensors did not emit any warning?
This would be great but I am trying to find something that would blend in...
The car didn’t say stop (like it does when you get too close) but it did some beeps which is normal since my garage is narrow
Wasn't there some damage from a flat change on the highway too? Not that I'm keeping score.
Yup...but this is the worst of them all!
My recommendation:
Been there...Done that...several times. There was a 39.95 super Deluxe so to say upgrade at some point and you could really see the paint...especially when it peeled off...
Thank you very much
FURY
Nest time honk.
Well, more seriously I would just remove the flair. Not a reason to avoid driving an otherwise solid vehicle
Well, more seriously I would just remove the flair. Not a reason to avoid driving an otherwise solid vehicle
fasteddie7
Active Member
I’m having my first body shop repair Monday. It will be at a Tesla approved shop. Do they ship panels pre painted or is it like ice cars and you get things like overspray and can easily see it was repaired?
NeverFollow
Active Member
I wonder what summon would have be doing in this situation?
- stop after the fist beep?
- stop, move back to the initial position, preposition the wheels, and try to exit again?
- did not stop, and crash?
- ... ?
European does excellent work. I've been to quite a few body shops (for non-Teslas) and can say none of them were near as good as European.
My wife did the same thing before, she hit out landscaping "pony wall" cap while backing out.
They were not able to repair it back in 2013, so it was a full quarter panel replacement. Total bill was around $15K back then (insurance covered and raised rates
)Repairing aluminum has come a long way since and have seen some excellent work in pulling out aluminum. However, if the aluminum get stretched or creased badly it's likely to be a replacement.
polymathic
Member
The panels come unpainted. Only my panel was damaged, like K-MTG's, but to replace that quarter panel is a huge job. Liftgate, one FWD, and more had to come off. It needs to be welded in place on a tesla specific bench, it needs to be prepped and painted, etc. Took so long it was like a bad joke.
I hope it can be repaired without a quarter panel replacement.
I hope it can be repaired without a quarter panel replacement.
European does excellent work. I've been to quite a few body shops (for non-Teslas) and can say none of them were near as good as European.
My wife did the same thing before, she hit out landscaping "pony wall" cap while backing out.
They were not able to repair it back in 2013, so it was a full quarter panel replacement. Total bill was around $15K back then (insurance covered and raised rates
Repairing aluminum has come a long way since and have seen some excellent work in pulling out aluminum. However, if the aluminum get stretched or creased badly it's likely to be a replacement.
View attachment 252549
My damage is about the same as your S in the picture. $15k!!!! Wow!!!
The dent is very small...mostly paint damage. I don’t see bare metal so I would assume it didn’t scratch past the primer.
I really hope they can fix it...I am not driving the car till my appointment next week and it will take them 10 days to fix...so I am driving my ICE for two weeks ):
My deductible is $1k and since it cost $3k to fix...I think it’s better if I just pay for it since my rate will go up! I have no at fault record...and it wasn’t me driving the X anyways...lol
In my, non expert opinion, yours looks fixable to me.
Ours was not fixable due to stretching and crease line of the wheel well arc. I even took it to some Paintless Dent Repair guys and all of them said, sorry, not fixable.
Last year a brand new XC90 hit that same spot while backing out of community pool parking lot and made a small dent, I thought it was going to be another quarter panel replacement. Nicole at European said she thought it would be fixable and sure enough we were in and out in like a week at around $3K (paid by the Volvo's insurance).
Hope yours is fixable and I'd too would do out-of-pocket for $3K. $2K in insurance premiums is not a lot and once rates go up they don't ever seem to go down.
Ours was not fixable due to stretching and crease line of the wheel well arc. I even took it to some Paintless Dent Repair guys and all of them said, sorry, not fixable.
Last year a brand new XC90 hit that same spot while backing out of community pool parking lot and made a small dent, I thought it was going to be another quarter panel replacement. Nicole at European said she thought it would be fixable and sure enough we were in and out in like a week at around $3K (paid by the Volvo's insurance).
Hope yours is fixable and I'd too would do out-of-pocket for $3K. $2K in insurance premiums is not a lot and once rates go up they don't ever seem to go down.
Mark Z
Active Member
It depends where you live and what vehicle you have. In California we don't have accident forgiveness. If I am in an accident where I am at fault, the rate goes up if damages are over a certain amount. Since I have more than one vehicle, State Farm uses the primary vehicle to determine the amount of increase. The primary vehicle is chosen in advance. 18 months ago they mentioned that with the 2009 Escalade as the primary, the rate would rise $250 a year. That increase occurs no matter what vehicle is used or damaged. If the 2016 Model X was the primary, it would rise $1,000 a year. The 2012 Model S as primary would cause an increase of $700 a year. Thankfully, no increases have been necessary and I use the Escalade for occasional cross country trips as the primary vehicle.
When I damaged the 2012 rear bumper by backing into a cement planter, the deductible of $100 lowered my repair estimate below $1,000. No increase was necessary and the insurance company sent a check for the repair, minus the deductible.
Talking to your insurance agent to determine how a fender bender can be handled would be recommended. I would check if it would be possible for a portion to be paid by insurance if an increase would occur with a full payout. Perhaps parts or labor could be paid by insurance. This is a question I can ask next time I have a chat with my friendly insurance office.
One more thing... A rock hitting the 2012 windshield this year was not my fault. Replacement was covered, minus the deductible.
Last edited:
I was thinking about talking to my insurance but not sure if they would penalize me if I merely told them about the accident.
