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Accident with total loss

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OP is happy to have the repair cost high cause he can get a new Tesla much faster than his old one repaired, which he might never trust as much. Probably dented the battery or side frame rail.

To answer OP questions:
1) check Tesla.com for similar used. and https://ev-cpo.com/hunter/
2) cherry pick from two, promised a fast settlement for the right price so they don't have to rent longer
3) since you are not at fault use you insurance co to put pressure on other
4) ask your insurance company about the maximum rental and get it, see if you can find a Tesla

I agree totally with this post. Farmers has always been great and very fair. Before I got my Tesla, my former car was totaled and I was amazed at how much they offered me on the settlement. But things change with insurance companies. For example, I had to change from Farmers when I got my Tesla 2 years ago as their rates for insuring Teslas was way out of sight. My agent was as upset as I was because I had been with them for over 40 years. He said that someday they would see the error of their ways, and apparently they have since they now insure Teslas. But I do know that Farmers will go the extra mile and battle the responsible insurance company. So very sorry for you and hope it all works out.
 
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Regarding rental car coverages, it varies greatly by company. My previous company would pay 80% up to a max of $1,000. My current company pays 100% up to a max of $15,000.
...

My specific story is posted at Collision, Repair and DV/LoU Lawsuit: My Nearly 500 Days of Fun (my company would neither seek subrogation for rental costs nor offer anything above rental coverage on my policy) but in my insurance search, I have not found a company offering anything above $1500 or 30 days, whatever comes first, so $15000!?! Wow.

I agree totally with this post. Farmers has always been great and very fair. Before I got my Tesla, my former car was totaled and I was amazed at how much they offered me on the settlement. But things change with insurance companies. For example, I had to change from Farmers when I got my Tesla 2 years ago as their rates for insuring Teslas was way out of sight. My agent was as upset as I was because I had been with them for over 40 years. He said that someday they would see the error of their ways, and apparently they have since they now insure Teslas. But I do know that Farmers will go the extra mile and battle the responsible insurance company. So very sorry for you and hope it all works out.

They haven't quite yet, and have actually gone the opposite direction. Farmers was the insurance for my Model S for 2016 and 2017, when (per my agent) underwriting would distinguish between performance and non. Then there was a change in underwriting, and the rates were up 2.5x, non negotiable. Has stayed the same every time I've checked since.
 
When my '15 was totaled in an accident earlier this year, the insurance loss value initially came back with an estimate of ~$10k less than I paid the car that I had for just one month and put only 3,000 miles on. When the person who did the valuation was confirming options with me, I sent her the MVPA and they wound up giving me credit for all the add-ons listed (e.g. subzero, premium audio, rear facing seats, paint, etc...) and their loss value offer jumped to $9k more than I paid for the car.
 
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Hello,

My 2017 Model S 90D was involved in an accident a few days back. My wife was in the carpool lane on the freeway going at about 60 mph, when another driver made an unsafe lane change into her lane. She braked but the distance was too short and the other car ended up crashing into the right front passenger side of our car, bounced off and then hit a van in front of him. The front and knee airbags deployed in our car. Thankfully no one was hurt.

The driver of the other car was in a rental, and it is still not clear who will assume liability - the driver’s insurance, or the rental car’s coverage (if he purchased insurance from them). To expedite things, I just went through my own insurance (Farmers).

Long story short, the other party was clearly at fault, and the police report indicates this. My car is obviously not drivable. After several days in the body shop, they came back with a repair estimate of over $43,500! I got a call from my insurance company and they indicated that the car would be declared a total loss, and I would hear from the total loss department soon regarding valuation and further steps, etc.

While we love our car and are sad that it cannot be fixed, given the extensive damage and repairs needed, we are glad that it will be totalled (will the fixed car ever be as safe or reliable?)

I need to do some homework, and I have a few questions, which I hope some of you can help answer:

1) How can I get a fair estimate of my car’s pre-accident value? It was in pristine condition with just 31,000 miles on it.

2) Have any of you had any success negotiating with the insurance companies on the valuation? Any recommendations for data / tactics to use? Anything I can do to justify a higher valuation than they come up with?

3) Should I continue the claim through my insurance, or file directly with the liable party’s? Is there any advantage of doing one vs the other?

4) I will submit a loss-of-use claim with the liable party – any tips for this?

Thank you for your help!

View attachment 486933 View attachment 486934
 
Years ago I settled claims for Farmers:

Above all else be nice but firm to the adjusters regardless of which company, their job is to settle the claim but if you are looking for more money, they'll need to go to bat to justify it...

1) the pre-accudent value is calculated using a nationwide service based on sold cars like yours in your geographic area. Similar to home appraisal, they compare yours to dealer-sold vehicles, and make adjustments for differences (new tires, other improvements that add value). Essentially what a reasonable person would pay for those extras. I had some wiggle room in this area ,and condition ratings which could adjust the total value, but had to justify any changes to managers. In CA, they refund the remaining registration for the year and sales tax.

2) when you get the total loss offer, review the comps carefully to make sure they were truly similar (1-owner, no accidents, add-ons, paint etc). Sometimes they'll also have for sale cars that you can inspect to see comparisons.

3) pros and cons.
- It's possible the loss will exceed the property damage limits of the other party. The total cost wont be known until the salvage is sold at auction a while from now.
- Insurance companies used to get incentives for subrogation, so that was financially attractive for them and we encouraged policy holders to go through us.
- As you pay the premiums to Farmers, they will want to take care of you to keep your business.
- they will typically deduct your collision deductible from the settlement.
- the other insurance company may want to take care of you to avoid a possible injury claim. Even if no injuries at time of collision, some creep up later.
- agree in CA you have more leverage with your own carrier, bad faith, Dept of Insurance complaints, and social nedia...

4) loss of use is squishy. We typically did 30 days for a total loss, or 7 days after the check was sent, but we didnt have a hard rule at the time. Also, for Farmers to pay this, its governed by your policy endorsement. If you didnt buy that coverage, Farmers can't pay this part of the claim.
For the other carrier, they owe for similar car...which could add a lot to the claim.

Good kuck
 
Years ago I settled claims for Farmers:

Above all else be nice but firm to the adjusters regardless of which company, their job is to settle the claim but if you are looking for more money, they'll need to go to bat to justify it...

1) the pre-accudent value is calculated using a nationwide service based on sold cars like yours in your geographic area. Similar to home appraisal, they compare yours to dealer-sold vehicles, and make adjustments for differences (new tires, other improvements that add value). Essentially what a reasonable person would pay for those extras. I had some wiggle room in this area ,and condition ratings which could adjust the total value, but had to justify any changes to managers. In CA, they refund the remaining registration for the year and sales tax.

2) when you get the total loss offer, review the comps carefully to make sure they were truly similar (1-owner, no accidents, add-ons, paint etc). Sometimes they'll also have for sale cars that you can inspect to see comparisons.

3) pros and cons.
- It's possible the loss will exceed the property damage limits of the other party. The total cost wont be known until the salvage is sold at auction a while from now.
- Insurance companies used to get incentives for subrogation, so that was financially attractive for them and we encouraged policy holders to go through us.
- As you pay the premiums to Farmers, they will want to take care of you to keep your business.
- they will typically deduct your collision deductible from the settlement.
- the other insurance company may want to take care of you to avoid a possible injury claim. Even if no injuries at time of collision, some creep up later.
- agree in CA you have more leverage with your own carrier, bad faith, Dept of Insurance complaints, and social nedia...

4) loss of use is squishy. We typically did 30 days for a total loss, or 7 days after the check was sent, but we didnt have a hard rule at the time. Also, for Farmers to pay this, its governed by your policy endorsement. If you didnt buy that coverage, Farmers can't pay this part of the claim.
For the other carrier, they owe for similar car...which could add a lot to the claim.

Good Luck
 
Thanks @UberEV1! I was wondering if the State tax and DMV licensing fees would be reimbursed. And thanks for your note on the HOV sticker - I did not know that a car that was not previously registered for an HOV sticker previously would qualify for the latest sticker!
Even if it was previously issued a carpool sticker doesn't mean you can't apply for a new one. Check the vin pdf in the second bullet item under please note on this page.

Clean Air Vehicle Decals - High Occupancy Vehicle Lane Usage

I had an ev which was issued a white decal and when that expired end of last year I was able to apply for the red one. I checked the pdf and the vehicle vin was not on the list. I bought a used 2014 S but was able to get a purple sticker for it this year. Again vin was not on the list. It was one of the criteria that I looked for before considering and making the purchase.