...is the reading of the wh/mi bunk? is it something not to worry about?...
It is good to know what's an individual driver's energy consumption is.
Energy consumption is dependent on a driver's driving style as well as environmental factors.
So, the comparison has to be on the same exact factors: The same distance of travel, same temperature, same wind speed...
If the energy consumption is out of ordinary, then maybe there's a new factor introduced such as heater on while stuck in standing still traffic for 30 minutes. Although the car does not move, the consumption from the heater still counts so, more consumption with the same miles means more Wh/mile.
That's nothing to worry about as long as you can get home without being stranded on the road.
In general, there's nothing to be concerned about energy consumption as long as a driver knows there's enough energy to get to the destination.
However, for those who want to improve their range, then there are energy consumption factors to look at:
1) Bigger rims mean bigger energy hogs: Make sure it's the one that comes with standard base model.
2) Faster speed means faster energy depletion: Slow down
3) Head Winds: It's like speeding
4) Heater: Worse than Air conditioning
5) Air conditioning: Not as bad as heater but still significant.
6) Use Autopilot as much as possible to avoid human lead foot and human's overspeeding tendency.
Since 2012 until now, I've found that if I keep the speed limit and avoid HVAC/Heater, I can arrive at the destination by adding 50 more battery miles to the road distance. For example, if my trip is 200 miles, I don't drive away until the battery gauge says 250 miles.
Some people need more, like for a 100 mile trip, they won't leave until their battery gauge says 180 miles--an extra 80 mile buffer.
You just know what your driving style is and add extra buffer miles before leaving.